GS455

Yea, someone would need to see the scope + mount on the receiver to know the geometry involved

I'll check him out. Do you know if he drill and taps receivers as well? Trying to avoid shipping the whole gun that's why I was hoping for someone local.

I've got a Mauser M48 bolt body that needs to have it's handle turned a few more degrees down so it can clear a ZRAK scope and mounts setup. No idea who does this and I'm not looking for some boutique hunting rifle gunsmith just a heat and bend a scooch. I'm just north of Nashville.

Some of you may have already seen my older and recent posts about “My 54r Vepr Woes” as well as chapter II. If you think I’m a whiner or ignorant, well, so be it, but bedtime reading if bored (and I’m still open to suggestions). Here, I’m only just coming to epiphanies, perhaps a decade late. I’m honestly wondering what the craze was around these back in the day. Obviously substantial enough and volume on the market for the likes of CSSpecs and others that invested in accessory projects for em. This is specifically a discussion surrounding my late, 20.5”, 54r, single stack variant. I was drawn in by all the praise and chatter, great, thicker, accurate barrels and just had to have one before it was “too late” (and now, it apparently is). I paid about $840 which, I felt, was a lot at the time. Mine is from the last batch that Atlantic was selling with the front site at the end of the barrel (not at the gas block). A guy named Blaine Bunting (very polite) from Atlantic who was “working” the forums, hand-held me through the purchase as they were just coming in and lots of follow up emails asking what I thought and was I satisfied, etc. In fact, it was above and beyond, great pre/post customer support (AAA+ there) for a single end-user. I didn’t really say so, partly b/c I was pretty “green” at the time (still am?) and it took so long to run it through its paces with glass but, from the day I opened the box I was somewhat disappointed. I immediately noticed the less-than hardware of the action (bolt/carrier group and piston) all being smaller/thinner/lighter compared to a standard x39 AKM action which I thought strange considering the larger 54r caliber. At the time I did get it out to the range immediately for function test on a HOT summer day. After a few boxes of ammo, I was sweating quite a bit and noticed right away that the finish on the factory walnut, thumbhole, buttstock was blistering. I parked it in the back of the safe and took a couple years before I picked up the IWD stock set, RSRegulate mount, rings, glass, mags, etc. While the IWD stock set is gorgeous (owner a great guy but RIP) I was really disappointed to lose that major fastening point through the pistol grip into the receiver leaving only two wood screws to connect, one from the inside of the rear of receiver and one through the rear tang. An attachment that easily loosened up over time and stripped the wood. I was able to have it filled and redrill the holes to secure (for now). What’s better about these over other 54r or battle rifle caliber AKMs? Russian, as-built”, 54r semi-auto (is it better – just because?) Decent rear sight with windage adjustment (okay, but I’m old and don’t shoot irons anymore) Thicker barrel profile that folks were acknowledging as major plus (no accuracy benefit I’m realizing at this point) What else? What’s not? Comparatively light for a “battle rifle” caliber (plus or minus?) Light action-hardware combined with being over gassed provides for violent recoil/impulse (at least mine) clearly necessitating a KNS piston. Throws spent cases up to 30’ Loss of pistol grip screw with the IWD stock (okay, not an original design flaw, rather, an IWD non-feature) Slant back receiver wi rear tang (fewer aftermarket stock options?) Original Thumbhole stock that can’t take a bit of sweat plus it’s just Monte Carlo ugly. Gas tube lever is so tight mine is practically mangled from just a few removals Stock trigger (mine) is horribly gritty and sticks (yea this can be polished or replaced) Barrel nut pinned and welded (plus/minus?). At least I could cut/remove to access standard threads so as to install a Tabuk-style flash hider Front handguard screws into a barrel collar (WTF !!! And why?) Did anyone consider how this affects barrel harmonics Single stack mag/receiver design (blech). Probably too much trouble to design and engineer a proper double stack mag for 54r Okay, so, this thing is a Russian built AKM pattern rifle (oooo aaaah) but, I think, an opportunistic/sporter construct in no way approximating anything close to a military quality product. It is now, I guess, a collectible as we’ll never see em again but what is/was the appeal? Yea, I have my personal accuracy issues with mine which REALLY grates me. I have a decent collection of 20th century battle rifles and carbines and nothing has given me such disappointment as this. At this point I’m wondering if I just cut losses and run or keep going. I haven’t done the math (yet) but likely matching or exceeding the original purchase price with all I’ve chosen to do to it: IWD Stock Tabuk flash hider Five CSSpecs mags RSRegulate scope mount ARMS #22 rings I won’t count the Trijicon AccuPoint scope as it’s a floater Stock repair for a weakness that will probably fail again, And now perhaps: a KNS piston which I’ll have to pay to have installed and will likely not help with accuracy, rather, simply keep it from shooting itself apart. A free float hand guard solution or replace the whole stock set? Trigger improvement or replacement. This is, relatively speaking, an increasingly expensive hobby and I’ve got some disposable income at this point in life. I pity younger guys getting into this today (a dying market I think). Back in “the day” I horded up a bit of corrosive, milsurp 54r @ $69ish/tin and was seeking additional rifle variants to enjoy my prudent, modest investment. Simply put I don’t mind spending money a bit at a time with a quality end in sight but this thing . . . . . ? In summary: Mine's seems to be a lemon in ways (maybe it’s not over yet). At the time I REALLY wish I went wi the .308 (double stack mags). And maybe they are a different story. I’ve never seen one nor a x39 version, but I'm pretty disenchanted with what I feel is this sloppy, cheap, light duty, non-military grade, opportunistic construct Molot spit out upon us. I think the Russian decision makers allowed them to come up with this clearly lesser-than-milspec, consumer product for the Western markets not really for hunter/sporting but the voracious, Combloc, wanna-have-a-Russian fanboys (like me).

There was no pulling the bullet with pliers and a vice. So unable to fire the primer . Cut the head off. Dry stick powder. The inside of the case and the bottom of the boat tail bullet is immaculate

A fellow on a forum is saying it's absolutely bad powder and not primers. If pulling bullets and reseating with fresh powder is all that needs to happen, then perhaps, an exercise worth doing. That is, after I burn through my lifetime supply of other 8 mm, LOL

It's still click-bang through an M48 that already has a 24lb Wolfe spring. Probably a bit more background indicated ...... I don't reload now but have a brand new 550 (still in box) and a bunch that goes with it including a crap-ton of accessories, tools, primers, powder, NATO and some other bullets. I know the primers are spent, which is why I bring this up. I've been saving my calibers of reloadable brass, including 8mm, for years. I figure, maybe when I retire, I might start reloading as a new hobby and maybe get more into precision shooting, etc. Obviously, there are no specs on the powder, so best transferring over into other 8mm brass, I'd think. With all that in mind, assuming that powder still burns, I guess I'm wondering if it's all worth keeping in the Ammo Fort as a couple $grand$ in reusable components? Or, for example, are Bulgy bullets known to be crap and saving/reusing that old powder a moronic idea? Back in the day I used to read how some reloaders would break down the 1950s 8mm Yugo for bullets & powder and reload into other boxer brass. I have a lot of that stuff, too, and happen to think it's some of the most accurate 8mm milsurp I have. Typically, only one hang-fire in 40 or 50 rds wi HiPower Wolfe bolt spring.

Several years ago I picked up a 2,400 rds of 8mm Bulgy milsurp. Unfortunately, as warned, it’s pretty much all click-bang, hang-fire due to poor primers. The insides of the cases is pretty much clean and for the most part all fire. I spoke to a buddy that reloads and as a cost analysis for 2,400 rounds: New Siera Matchking FMJ bullets @ .52/ea will run $1,248 and if he figures 1lb of powder will fill 150rds @ $52/lb = $832. So bullets and powder for 2,400rd will approximate $2,080. Sounds spendy. Does that sound right?

I have a collection of mainly 20th century battle rifles. All presumably milspec’d to withstand the rigors of combat/abuse. Virtually nothing I own, aside from a few in polymer, wears a new commercial wood stock and nothing so seemingly fragile as a Boyds laminate that I feel failed on me recently. It was an At-One-Thumbhole stock on a Ruger American Ranch (7.62x39) that was leaning against a wall. It was lightly bumped causing it to fall over, 90 degrees, under its own weight, down onto a not-so-hard vinyl floor. As you can see it sustained severe cracks across it’s body. In milsurp circles I’ve always believed laminate stocks to be considered tougher and stronger than standard wood stocks (i.e. 91/30’s and AKMs in laminates). I would think any stock should be able to take mild to moderate abuse whether in combat, on a ranch, in the bush or forest hunting. I’m mainly a medium skill plinker, so, yea and occasional mild drop or tip-over may happen at the range or at the house. I absolutely love the appearance and form factor of this stock but should it be so apparently brittle? Without much apology Boyds has thankfully taken it back for a full refund but are not directly fessing up to any kind of warranty/material failure, rather, doing me a “favor”. I have been offered a replacement at a modest discount (mainly due to a bunch of other hassles I won’t go into) but, in short, should get another laminate version or go with a solid walnut variant instead. Boyds won’t answer which would be stronger either way.

I need to drill & tap a receiver for mounts as well as slightly bend a bolt handle a few degrees. Any competent recommendations that won't take 4-6 months? Thanks

Back to the "Topic of blasphemy (for some). I'm going to clone the 24/47 into a Balkan "Conflict" DMR via a set of ZRAK Swing Mounts + ONM76B scope. And I bought an M48, bent handle, bolt body off eBay and swapped internals wi the 24/47 bolt. I transferred a BadAce + LER Burris from my 98/29 Persian last night just to see how she shoots today. Bottom line: I can't shoot anything w/o glass anymore. I did the same wi a minty-bore M48 that was gathering dust for years and now it gets to go out and play quite often. I have two lifetimes' supply of 8mm that I'd just assume not run through my semi autos. I like shooting military config "History". Oh, and I really REALLY don't care for the scout+LER set up / solution. I was pounded into submission from the hive for even suggesting I would tap and drill the Persian. This is my insubordinate, pushback with a less valuable collectible that woulda/shoulda/coulda worn the hardware I'm putting on it in real life. Actually I've read that 24/47s came in DnT'd or even wearing Mauser / Zrak bases so . . . . . . . . . and going to enjoy the company of her siblings . Wish I could add pictures but I guess this forum has maxed out what I'm allowed to post in graphics

I'll say one thing about Amazon, when you have an impulsive itch it can get scratched quickly. Ordered last night and already here this afternoon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9Y445KR/?tag=akfnfal-20 Thanks to another forum member, this little guy is almost exactly what I was looking for. Compact, fairly light, range bag friendly, precision movement and absolutely handles the weight of this big ol Vortex w/o the least bit of wobble. Not sure how it will do prone, the legs will go flat, but probably not ideal. I’m guessing a Creedmoor style will be better for expert competition, etc, but this had a relatively low $ risk to try. I don't know if it's a low-end feature but the guide handle on my current cheapo, POS tripod will allow horizontal/vertical adjust by untwisting (convenient). This is thumbscrew adjust.

I ended up getting two cases of this stuff for the same price as the latest 1969 M2 Ball offering. It is beyond difficult to transact business via the CMP estore nowadays, no one takes calls, returns vmails or responds to email (for weeks) and good grief, the CMP Forums is an absolute train wreck since the update they did last year. Basically broken and if it did work it's so out of standard and difficult to sub-navigate. Such a shame. I really enjoyed all the traffic and learned so much over there, over the years. Other than the Market Place it seems virtually dead these days.

I have an older, fairly heavy Vortex Skyline ED 20-60x80 (Angled) @ just under 6lbs. Had it for years, the glass is clear and serves my purposes out to 500 or so yards. I'm looking for a lower height/profile tripod for use on a bench or occasionally shooting prone. The few I've tried have been too lightweight or unsteady for easy, reliable repositioning w/o wobbling all over the place. What are common mid-price options folks are using these days?

Apparently branded and offered by CMP in the early 2000s before the HXP days. Anyone have an feedback about how it shot? Not much I can find online about it other than some folks claim it was Federal "seconds" and not actually Match ammo at all. Some folks not impressed, other pleased. I plan to use it mainly in my 03A3.