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Reloads wont Cycle My Glock


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Did my first 9mm reloads for my Glock 17 and they wont cycle. Am using a 115 gr bullet with 3.0 grains Clays (because I had some left over from shotgun reloading). This was the light load from the Hodgdon manual. I screwed up and loaded a 100 rounds without first trying any to see if they would have worked. Now I am stuck. Would seating the rounds a little deeper in the case increase the pressure enough to make them cycle or do I need to start over.

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Did my first 9mm reloads for my Glock 17 and they wont cycle. Am using a 115 gr bullet with 3.0 grains Clays (because I had some left over from shotgun reloading). This was the light load from the Hodgdon manual. I screwed up and loaded a 100 rounds without first trying any to see if they would have worked. Now I am stuck. Would seating the rounds a little deeper in the case increase the pressure enough to make them cycle or do I need to start over.

Do not seat the rounds any deeper. That will only increase pressure. Pull the bullets and reload

Get one of these....Amazon.com: RCBS - Power Pull Bullet Puller: Sports & Outdoors. You should be able to get one for less than that price. The link is only for reference.

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Do not seat the rounds any deeper. That will only increase pressure. Pull the bullets and reload

Get one of these....Amazon.com: RCBS - Power Pull Bullet Puller: Sports & Outdoors. You should be able to get one for less than that price. The link is only for reference.

This.

Just to be sure, you are using "Clays", not "Universal Clays" or "International Clays", right? I've never used Clays, but I have used a lot of Universal Clays and have had great luck. Of course, 3.0 of Universal Clays would be way under the standard load for 115gr 9mm. I know a few people who've gotten their Clays confused. Probably not your issue, but I figured I would throw it out there.

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We had the same problems with my wife's. Not only did the plastic not cycle, the next step up (which did cycle it) made it became extremely motion sick... the slightest side to side motion (to acquire the next target in event-shooting) made it jam (not limp wrist, but same effect, and from side to side not forward to back). You need about 75% of the way between the starter load to max to get the gun to behave, but work your way up carefully, just make 5 rounds, try them, make 5 more, until you get it right. I shot my weak loads in another gun, almost any other brand will accept the lighter loads properly.

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Don't even consider seating deeper. No way to know what pressure you're getting.

As suggested, get a bullet puller, & start over, 5 at a time, until it cycles smoothly

"each" time. Make certain you have the correct "clays".

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Seating deeper *could* work, if and ONLY IF the current depth is above the lowest depth. You can lower it to the lowest depth for your bullet type to see if that gets the job done, in other words, but do NOT go below that. Here again you could take 5, seat them to the lowest acceptable depth, test, and if that works, maybe save this batch of ammo (but make the next one a bit stronger and go back to a modest depth).

It cannot be stressed enough that going past that minimum OAL is dangerous, tiny amounts of depth = a LOT of pressure, and its not linear.

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when in doubt,... cast it out....

saving a few bucks on reloads isn't worth risking an ER visit and a blown pistol

pull them and reload to a ball equivalent or a slightly lower loading even if this means buying a different powder and not using your stockpile of "clays"

the other option is to mark the head stamp area with a sharpie and use for malfunction drills, as long as you are SURE they won't get stuck in the barrel ( KaBoom possibility # 2 )

John

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Went ahead and pulled the bullets. Upped charge to 3.7 gr of Clays from 3.0gr. Cases would not hold anymore without compressing powder. Loaded 10 rounds. first 2 rounds would not cycle but then the rest were fine. Will probaly stick with Titegroup.

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