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Revolver "timing" question


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I may have asked this before but I didn't find it on a search. What is the best way to check the timing on a revolver ?

 And if a revolver is out of timing , how is it fixed ? 

  What causes this condition ?

The type of revolver I am asking about is a double action type such as a Ruger GP100 or Ruger SP101 .

 Any information is appreciated .

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usually its an issue with really old guns, or heavily worn guns, where the worn out parts do not quite do the job anymore.   For example I have a bad one that the "pusher thingy" what is attached to the trigger and the cylinder notches are so badly worn out they only turn the cylinder about 95% of the way.  The cylinder stop is also worn so it does not really lock into place either.   Bottom line is the thing is dangerous to shoot, it will shave bullets and spit the shavings out the side of the gun, or worse.   It was my great grandfathers and its just not to be shot anymore.

 

One thing to check is the cylinder lockup.  If it can be turned by hand, that is bad, even a little wiggle is not great, it should not move at all when it is in fire position.  This is not quite the same issue but its related.   Another issue is if the cylinder rotates when it should not, not talking wiggle but for example, some revolvers allow you to rotate the cylinder freely under some conditions, but most DA/SA do NOT.   The gp and sp should NOT rotate freely with the hammer down, for example.

 

What most folks do is dry check each chamber ... that would mean cock it 6 times and try to wiggle the cylinder each go, and make sure it is aligned (look down the  barrel or use a caliber-sized rod ) each go.  

 

The only other source of the issue that I know of  are

1) manufacturing defects: fixed by sending to manufacturer.

2) some idiot changed the cylinder out for one that does not quite work.  Fixed by undoing this.  Example, putting a 7 shot cylinder into a 6 shot gun of similar models that seems to fit but don't.

 

I would think this would be a non-issue on a gun like a GP/SP unless its been abused badly or shot to death, both should be obvious.   Do you have a reason to suspect a problem?  If you discover a problem, ruger should fix it, might cost you though.   The only way to fix a worn out one is a new cylinder and pusher, which don't exist for most of the guns that are so old they have the issue..

Edited by Jonnin
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In music lore, Brian and Carl Wilson wrote a song about this issue for the Beatles Revolver album.  Alas, the mopheads turned it down.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBCMXZ4Byxc

 

Okay....I could be wrong. 

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Jonnin gave you some very good advice.  In addition to what he said, here's how I check timing on my DA revolvers:

 

1.  Make sure weapon is unloaded.

2.  Hold the gun so that it is pointing to your left or right, and positioned between your face and a light.

3.  Watching the cylinder latch, slowly pull the trigger.

4.  If your gun's timing is good, then the latch will:

        A.  drop down before the cylinder starts to turn;

        B.  pop back up and drag on the cylinder; 

        C.  lock into place and stop the cylinder's movement - BEFORE the hammer drops.

 

You should check this on all six bores.  If this doesn't make sense then take a look at the Iowegan Book of Knowledge or PM me.

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In a perfect world revolvers would time perfectly and lock up when the hammer comes to full cock both in day and sa. Most revolvers are timed early. The only ones that time precisely are older Colts. The cylinder latch usually will pop up early usually halfway through the hammer motion. The reason being is that it takes a lot of hand fitting to get them precisely times. The cylinder latch will lock the cylinder if it pops up early much better than if it pops up late.
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Great information guys thanks. I had a SP101 a year ago and traded it off. So now I am reloading ammo so I figure that I could really have fun with one now. So I may try and sell my Bushmaster AR15 and try and fund a Ruger SP101 and maybe a GP100. I may get one used so I am just wondering what to check for and I have always wondered how the timing was checked.

 I got my Bushmaster AR15 back after the Clinton ban was done and maybe put 3 mags through it at the most. The rest of the time its been stored away. I figure that I'll get way more use and fun from two revolvers rather than an AR15.

Edited by tercel89
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its your money of course but the SP and GP are about the same exact thing.   I would suggest getting a totally different second gun instead --- the sp is scaled down slightly to have 5 instead of 6 shots and a slightly smaller frame.  I would say get the GP if its for fun, the SP to carry, one of the two, and then something else radically different.

 

The GP is the nicest revolver to work on I have ever touched.   We put a light trigger spring in ours and now it has like a 3 pound DA pull, which even I can manage comfortably.   I expected the usual wrestling match takedown and assembly against a bunch of aggravating springs, but it was simple and sweet inside. 

Edited by Jonnin
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If it is going to be a range gun the GP would be my pick although a sp with a 4" barrel is also a great range gun. I have the GP's with 3", 4", and 6" barrels and all are easy and fun to shoot. I also have the 4" SP and it is also a nice range gun. The 2" SP is one of my carry guns and I will be adding the LCRx with a 3" barrel to my carry line up. Yes I am a Ruger fan and I have more then one of each ;) Edited by Joe357
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If it is going to be a range gun the GP would be my pick although a sp with a 4" barrel is also a great range gun. I have the GP's with 3", 4", and 6" barrels and all are easy and fun to shoot. I also have the 4" SP and it is also a nice range gun. The 2" SP is one of my carry guns and I will be adding the LCRx with a 3" barrel to my carry line up. Yes I am a Ruger fan and I have more then one of each ;)

 

Lol so much for the variety suggestion.   I suppose going with what you like works too :P

Edited by Jonnin
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