Help me figure out this K98's story

[Pete123]

I just bought a few guns from an estate. Can you help me determine this guns story?

 

Below are pics of a K98 Mauser.  The barrel and bottom plate both have markings from the Gustloff-Werke, Weimar factory.

 

The bolt seems to have two matching numbers and one that doesn't match.  The stock is different than most I have seen along the top of the gun.  The sight isn't shrouded.

 

It looks like some filed off the serial number.  Is that illegal?  If so, can I make it legal?  If not, what do I need to do so I'm not breaking firearms laws?

 

Watch for numbers / markings on:

 

The top of the receiver. (I think that's the receiver)

The bolt in four places.  Three numbers and a 'gnn' mark

The floor plate on the bottom, 'byf' and a nazi symbol

I didn't get a pic of the side opposite of where the serial number should be.  You can see a partial nazi symbol and one other mark that has been removed or wasn't stamped well.

 

It looks like someone took a drill with one of the round things with wire sticking out to this gun - truly a smacking offense.

 

 

[Caster]

Second pic is an American copy of a mauser aka a Springfeild. Lol!

[Pete123]

Oops.  :huh:

[1gewehr]

A cursory look says that it's a late 1944 Gustloff 98k. Mismatched parts could from someone putting a winterized or bubba'd rifle back in 98k form.
Before 1968, serial numbers were not required on firearms in the US. Yours may have never had one. Gustloff was located near Berlin and by late 1944 was in bad shape. Shortcuts were already being taken to keep production numbers up.

[Pete123]

Thanks Gewerhr.

 

As I understand, there are different flavors of K98:  Rifles brought back by US troops coming home, Russian captures that were taken apart and put back together with a mish mash of parts, etc....

 

What would be your best guess as to what this one is?  I realize 'guess' is the key word.

[Garufa]

Bubba had his way with that one.  If you can get that completely inappropriate handguard off (is it expoxied or something?) you might see a serial number on the barrel....if it is the correct barrel.

 

BTW, the BYF code you see on the floorplate and trigger guard is Mauser-Oberndorf.

Edited September 25, 2015 by Garufa

[Pete123]

Ugh!  Below are a couple of pics of a part of the barrel that make me a little nervous.  What is your take on them?   I bought several guns from an estate for a great price and expected a couple of duds, this may be one of them.

 

The lot included several WWI & WWII bolt actions - Springfield 30-06, this gun and an Enfield #5 Jungle Carbine.  None of the other ones show signs of being 'Bubbarized'.  Apart from a careful inspection, are there other things to check before shooting?  I think I read about head space on mausers, though can't remember.

 

 

[Garufa]

You might check the actual caliber.  :lol:

[Pete123]

I was having that same thought.  With my luck, it would chamber an 8mm and blow up in my face......I have to protect my looks as they are considered a gift to the feminine gender  :devil:

[peejman]

Are you concerned with that transition in the barrel?

[Pete123]

Yes,  It looks a bit advanced for Bubba to do, yet it isn't smooth.  It looks like it wasn't forged (or cast or whatever they did) in one piece.

 

Thoughts?

[peejman]

Look at it real closely with a 10x magnifier and a good flashlight. It could be a seam but it's probably just a machining mark... dull tool and/or sloppy transition.

If you can't decide visually, put some penetrating oil on it and let it sit for a bit. Wipe off the excess so it looks clean and dry. Then give it a few hours and see if any more oil has oozed out. You could also put a torch or heat gun to it and see if any bubbles or smoke appears.

[Sunfish]

Wow Pete, That's a Frankin Mauser for sure. The step in the barrel is a normal military step. Measure the barrel length and tell me how long it is from the receiver to the crown? 44 BCD's should have a slot for a sight hood. Barrel may be different or the front sight sleeve may have been soldered on from an older version. The bands look to be from a Turk. I have a field gauge and a no go and would check it for you some weekend. I wouldn't worry about the #'s at this point. Did you get a receipt or bill of sale for it? Sunfish

[Pete123]

If you count the end of the receiver as the point where the piece of metal with 'BCD' is the length to the end of the barrel is 23 inches.

 

It does have a slot for a hood.

 

What do you make of the bolt having 2383 stamped twice and 1056 in a different area?

 

Finally,  what are your thoughts about de-Bubbarizing the gun?  

Edited September 29, 2015 by Pete123

[Sunfish]

The safety lever does not match but is the late type. Put the lever in the first position and remove the bolt. Push the button on the shroud and turn it off. See if the firing pin # matches the shroud. The cocking piece should be #'d as well. The Ghn on the shroud is a contract supplier and would be correct. On the underside of the bolt root it should be marked 749 or maybe a 1 if it is a BCD bolt. Let me know what you find    

Edited September 29, 2015 by Sunfish

[Pete123]

All of the parts match, with the number being 2383

 

Firing pin,  has 2383.  About an inch toward the end of the firing pin that strikes the round is the letter 'e'

 

Bolt - the top of the bolt has 2383 as you have seen.  There is a number '1' on the underside.

 

Cocking Piece - stamped with 2383 as well as an 'e'