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PaiMei

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Posts posted by PaiMei

  1. 6.5 Carcano's are pretty common. As 1gewehr said there are many different variants throughout the years. Its is rare that they are worth much. The good news is you can get parts relatively easy for them. There is a lot of carcano information around the web to keep ya busy. If you ever come across the 7.35 carcano, they are harder to find and bring a little more. Im one of the few people who collect those things as I have a lot of family history serving in Italy. PM me if you questions.

  2. Depends...

    If you are buying a pre-made SBR then for the most part...yes thats it. If you are changing things on your existing rifle then add the cost of parts (barrel, rail, etc.) Professional engraving on a NFA lower can cost a bit as well. If you decide to go the trust route then add the cost of having one made.

  3. You know, other than Colt, it's hard to find a pencil profiled barrel. For an ultralight weight build, the pencil barrel really shaves weight. I want to see just how light I can build one, I think the wife would love that.

    A: Daniel Defense has some really good pencil barrels for the money.

    B: Careful with the billet lowers idea. They look really neat, but LPK fitting doesn't always go so great. Id just get a lower from a reputable company and do something custom to it if you want something "different."

  4. Polygonal rifling supposedly extends the life of the barrel. Its also suppose to marginally increase muzzle velocity. It also creates a slightly thicker barrel as the lands and grooves, are not as deep as traditional grooves. It is also...a little easier to clean. That being said I don't think its a must have. If your looking for an accurate, quality, hardy barrel...Id look at anything thats cold hammer forged. Currently, BCM and Daniel Defense are making all theirs in house here in the US. If your looking for just pure precision, Id look at the Stainless barrels. There are however...conflicting reports on their life expectancy. But...thats a debate for another day.

  5. Yankee Hill makes a riser for the railed gas blocks. I have never used one just remember them from their website.

    Here is the link.

    Gas Block Riser

    At $42 though it might not add up once you buy a front sight too.

    This is probably your easiest solution unless you want to replace your gas block

  6. Finally put my hands on one yesterday. Meh. Size wize its thicker than a Kel Tec PF9. The safety is hard to manipulate as its hinged at the front of the safety and not the back like most. I'll probably pass.

  7. There are few pistols out there with a similar "angle". Whats unique to the grip is the "hump" on the back of the grip. Alot of people perceive it as part of the grip angle but really its doing much more to your grip. Its a love it or hate thing. Problem is...I don't know know of any other pistols that have a radical hump like that on the bottom like that.

  8. FWIW, the Stoeger Cougar and Beretta Cougar aren't just related, other than the name inscribed on their slides they're exactly the same gun made on the exact same machines, the machines are just stationed in Turkey instead of Italy.

    This

    The cougars are one of the most UNDERRATED pistols out there. Like CK1 said...you are essentially getting a beretta...just made in turkey. From what I understand they shipped all the tooling over there. They are even bringing back the cougar compacts this year. If you don't like the safety you can even convert these to de-cock only. Enjoy your cougar!

  9. Before you worry about caliber or size, I'd consider the trigger systems your looking at. Your comparing apples to oranges here. Sure...size wise they are in the same league, but you are comparing a striker fired DAO (kahr,) to a hammer fired SAO (sig). Are you ok with carrying a gun cocked and locked? If your a 1911 guy your used to it, but since you said you have a Glock and M&P...your used to striker DAO. Its a little different feeling trigger (longer travel)...but the Kahr would be inline with what pistol nomenclature you already know and have experience with.

  10. Bought a new glock 27 for carry under my CCW, loved it, but arthritic fingers prompted me to make some changes. Added extended controls, 3.5 pound trigger, crimson trace laser grip and a DPMS recoil reducer. Gun stovepipes rounds on every shot. Removed DPMS and re installed stock spring, still stovepiping. What have I done? How can I fix it? Love this gun, have an older 17 as well and it has always been hyper reliable, just too big for daily carry. Please help!

    Was the gun cycling properly BEFORE you made some mods to it?

  11. The consensus I seem to get from most that have owned different calibers in the M&P series is...the 45's are THE M&P's to have. I've been flirting with the idea of getting a mid size 45 for a while now, and this thread is not helping!!! And now that you mentioned raven concealment...I think Im going to have to do that too!

  12. Looks like you posted just before i submitted my post. If you search around the web you'll find that the ambi models were plagued with issues including the one you have unfortunately. Glock consequently dropped the ambi 21 models all together. From what I understand Glock WILL take care of it though. Call them. They are supposedly replacing them with non ambi frames.

  13. Caliber debate aside...

    I am looking into getting a Walther PPS. Now, I have a decision between 9mm or 40cal.

    Does anyone have any good advice about which to choose?

    My considerations are...

    Ammuntion cost (if ammo is too expensive, I won't practice with it)

    Magazine size (9mm comes in 6,7,8 count mags, 40cal mags are all 1 less)

    Is any extra stopping power worth the other sacrifices?

    Anything else I haven't thought of...

    Thanks for the advice.

    Your considerations...

    Ammunition Cost- The cost gap between 9mm and 40 is growing. 9mm is a worldwide NATO adopted round. Its easy to find and cheap.

    Mag Capacity- Generally a bit higher capacity in 9mm depending on the gun.

    Stopping Power- That is a BIG can of worms that ignites arguments worse than yankees and red sox fans in the room during a game. It usually is filled with emotion and little actual science. My 2 cents...don't worry about it and get what YOU feel comfortable with. If you are worried about 9 then don't carry it. If you are worried about 40 then don't carry it. You have to have confidence in what you choose to use. That being said your looking at a smaller gun with little mass. So as for me...I wouldn't want to carry a round that has more recoil, more muzzle flash, less capacity and costs me more to shoot it. That however is just me...Get whatever YOU feel comfortable with and worry not. They both work in the right hand.

  14. Either one is going to suit you well for a CC gun. Yes, the trigger is noticeably smoother and lighter on the LCR...but given the purpose the gun was built for, I think the trigger aspect is moot. Smith triggers can always be gunsmithed to smooth it out and lighten it if it really bothers you. That of course, adds cost. The J's have a long track record. That being said the LCR's seem to be getting quite popular. I don't really think you can go wrong wither way. The only thing Id say I've noticed is that the hogue grip on the LCR...while comfortable, likes to catch and hang up a shirt easier due to its softer rubber. But that may not be an issue for you...YMMV

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