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Swede

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About Swede

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  • Birthday 12/11/1948

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    Shelbyville, TN

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  1. Swede

    1912 Swedish M96

    I'm no expert at identifying wood, but it looks lilke a maple or walnut stock. If so, so much the better.
  2. Swede

    Picked up one of my grails

    Be aware that there is corrosive surplus .30/06 out there. Cleaning after using it is not a bad chore in a bolt action, but properly cleaning a gas-operated action can be a chore. Before you buy any surplus ammo, research the headstamp to see if it is corrosive. Don't just take a seller's word for it; some don't know better, but some will lie. The best thing for you to do is probably to just buy Prvi .30/06 M1 ammo. It's good reloadable brass, and priced below the usual commercial sources.
  3. Swede

    6.5 neck size

    They both use .264 bullets, so you should be able to use the same neck sizing die if the shoulder configurations let you size enough of the neck to securely hold the bullet. I tried to open the chamber and cartridge drawings for 6.5x55 and 6.5 Creedmore on the SAAMI website site, but they wouldn't open. Maybe the SAAMI website will work for you. When you neck size, the 6.5mm expander plug will open the inside of the neck to the proper diameter, however, there may be a difference in the outside diameter of the two cartridges.
  4. The Outback restaurant in Murfreesboro (and others I'm sure) doesn't have the "crossed out gun" sign on their door, but they have a written statement saying something like they respect gun owners rights but their policy is not to allow guns in their restaurants. Does a statement like that carry the legal weight of the official gun with a slash across it sign such as seen at banks, etc.?
  5. Swede

    Lee die reassembly

    Protruding far enough to reliably decap without hitting the bottom of the case. With the nut on top adjusted loose enough to let the rod slide through it, let the rod protrude too far. With a decapped case in the shellholder, raise the ram of your reloading tool to push the loose depriming rod to where it will be at the top of the stroke. Raise it a bit more and snug down the nut.
  6. Swede

    .303 British

    British military mkVII was loaded with a 174 gr. FMJ flat base bullet. I've done well with the Hornady 150 gr. SP. It reduces recoil a bit and the larger .312 diameter may be advantageous if your Enfield has a larger bore. If I were shooting factory ammo, I would look for the best price on PPU.
  7. http://www.shotgunworld.com/ Here's a good source of shotgun and shotshell information. Remington Gun Club hulls are probably the best of the non-premium hulls to reload, along with the other Remington hulls of the same design, such as Shurshot.
  8. Swede

    Surplus 7,62x54R value?

    I shot a can of the Albanian brass-cased 54R several years ago. It was as accurate as other ball ammo I shot in my rifle. The best thing about it is that extraction is easier in mosins prone to difficult extraction; for that reason alone I would consider it a bit more desireable.
  9. Swede

    7 new guns, rust, and ammo!

    M2 ball is a 150 grain bullet at about 2,700 - 2,800 fps.
  10. Swede

    Titewad vs Titegroup Powder

    Look again at Hodgdon's website. They list several loads for Titewad in .45acp.
  11. Swede

    reloading dies

    I prefer Lyman dies for loading pistol calibers because the pistol three-die sets come with the M-die that is better for expanding and belling case mouths for cast bullets. M-dies are sold separately for rifle calibers. In rifle calibers, I've used Lyman, RCBS, and Lee. They all work well if properly used; I suspect improper loading technique accounts for more problems than the brand of dies used.
  12. Swede

    powder/primer combos

    With so many powders and primers available that are suitable for the cartridges you plan on loading I doubt you will find a concensus.  For a beginning reloader, I would suggest getting one powder that's suitable for all three cartridges.  In the past I've used Bullseye, Win231, Green Dot, Titegroup, and Unique.  I don't think it makes much difference for most people in most guns.  I haven't loaded 9mm, but these powders are all suitable for .45acp and .38spl.  Study the manufacturers charts and get one that works in the low end to middle of the velocity range for all the cartridges you plan to load.   I don't think primer brand is critical for most uses, but I prefer Winchester, primarily because that's what I've worked up my loads with for many years now.   I would suggest you start out loading the .38spl. because revolver rounds are more forgiving of reloading techniques such as case sizing, degree of crimp, and so on that a beginning reloader will learn through trial and error.  Don't load a lot of rounds before you make sure they will chamber and function in your pistols.  You don't want to have a couple hundred rounds on hand that won't chamber in your pistol.   You didn't ask about bullets, but start with the "standard" weight for your cartridges.  Don't be afraid to buy the less expensive jacketed or lead bullets.    I wouldn't buy any component by the thousands except for possibly getting a thousand primers to begin with.  Brass lasts a long time and 9s, .45acp, and .38spl. can often be found at a range.  One good reason not to overbuy to begin with is that you may find you don't like reloading.  I'm not trying to discourage you, but the attention to detail required and the repetitive nature of it is just not to everyone's liking.  Go slow, study before you do anything, and you'll probably like reloading.  Get a manual or two for reference and to help learn the process.  I like the Lyman rifle and pistol manual  and the Lyman cast bullet manual. 
  13. Swede

    British .303 question

    If either of your magazines is numbered to the receiver of either rifle, make sure the properly numbered magazine ends up with its rifle when you start switching them. Not an essential, but nice to have a matching magazine for resale purposes and "just because".

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