timthetoolman
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Posts posted by timthetoolman
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Have you measured the diameter of your brass at the case mouth and lower for comparison? I usually see a few thou diff when the crimp is starting to engage
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I have personally had great luck with titegroup. A little smoky behind lead but great behind jacketed or plated. I use it for 9 38 40 45 and 44
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We've done thousands on my Dillon Super Swage and it a breeze.
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The Boyd's Tacticool is a really nice stock for the money. Midway sells unfinished ones at a good price. I am working on a putting together a nice 10/22 for a Nashville doc who is a TGOr that utilizes a Tacticool. I spent a good bit of time on his unfinished Tacticool. Barrel and bolt are off getting accurized. I'll post up some pics in a couple of weeks.
The problem with 10/22 barrels is that you are limited with either 28/29" or 22" or less. Back in the heyday of bolt 22s by Remington, 26" or so was common. I cut a 29" barrel to 18.5" but should have cut it to 26". I am reluctant to cut this 28" to 26" as it shoots pretty well as is. Really quiet with subsonics and pellet gun quiet with Colibras.
Kidd will cut any barrel length you want I think. I've had great luck with my barrel they did and the machine work is amazing!
Www. Coolguyguns.com
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I have one. And sold a couple. Do you have any pics?
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Checked mine and only one out of seven boxes even had a stamped lot number on them. Maybe my stuff is older but looks like I am safe from the dreaded double charged 22 catastrophe of 2014.
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Just measured. As cast they were 0.3555. After tumble coat they are 0.3595. Pretty much perfect for sizing now and testing
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Well I haven't checked yet but they also still have to be sized. I am actually trying to increase the bullet diameter to help w leading issues with my 9mm loads. As cast they are still a little too small
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I'm a bit behind everyone else with giving this a shot. But tonight I decided to pry PC with a gun, and with the brass tumbler method. I coated some 300 BLK 230 grain, some 9mm, and some 44 mag that I cast up quickly for the test.
Pictures arent all the best but here the 300 blk dusted and going in the oven
And here they are after cooking for 20 min at 375
For the 9mm I tried the tumble coat. I then stood some one end using gloved fingers, some on end using hemostats, and I just dumped a few to see if that might work.
Coverage from the tumbler
To the left are ones i touched, to the right are the ones i stood on end with hemostats, and the bottom has a few laying in there as poured onto the sheet
Here are results of the ones laying down...some flat spots, decent coverage.
Here are the ones stood up with surgical gloved fingers
And here are the ones stood up with hemostats, definitely the best looking of the tumbled boolits
I was impressed with the coverage of the tumbled bullets
Next i made a jig to hold some 44's, sprayed them with the gun, and baked. Some foil stuck to this batch, but i am pretty sure this can be perfected faily easily
I may have had the oven a little hot, they seemed to flow too much, but cooled looking pretty good.
Tumbled 9mm vs PC gun 300 blk
I used Hot Coat High Gloss Black powder and a garage sale toaster oven set at 375 for 20 mins. If it weren't for standing the rifle bullets up to prevent odd little flat areas I think the tumbling method is a winner. The gun gave a thicker nicer coat naturally, but I havent mic'd any of the rounds yet. I didnt have any hardware cloth laying around so perhaps cooking them n something like that may solve the efficiency issues of standing bullets on end and aerodynamic issues from flat spots cause by laying on foil. I like the idea of a jig or tray setup for various calibers so that the PC gun can be used to produce really nice looking rounds, that hopefully function better as well. If the 9mm will stop leading I will be happy, and I am really interested to see what can be done in the AR 300 Blackout without leading. I have some 155 grain projectiles to try for that as well.
What do you all think compared to results you've been getting or seeing?
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You should sell it to me ;) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Na I can rotate the sight with my fingers. It's like it has tension applied or twist in the wrong direction. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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So what's everyone's favorite load for a cast boolit with H110 or TiteGroup? Does the Tumble Lube force me to keep them under a certain speed to prevent leading if I don't decide to PC them?
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I've considered having a smith mill in the slide for a dovetail like the Bomar, but I keep thinking it will ultimately hurt the value of my Colt. Not like I plan to sell it but if I had to I'm not sure it wold help the value any. I'll slide it apart in a bit and see if I can figure out what's causing it. When I bought it Colt said it would be a 6 month turn around and I like shooting it too much to part with it for that long. So I took it to a local smith and he fiddled around with the roll pin but couldnt straighten the sight. His eyes arent the best anymore so who knows...could be a crappy sight, could be a bent pin, could be a poorly drilled slide....wish me luck.
Heres a pic
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That's what I figured. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Yep that's it. Midway doesn't have them but amazon does. If I am going thru the trouble and expense I wonder if I should go to something other than a target style rear blade? Not even sure what's out there. Seems like all my pistols have a different sight picture. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Looks like a few folks make one. I'm just concerned colt may have cross drilled the slide off a bit. Guess ill bust out the calipers and see what I can figure out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Is your series 70 dovetailed in the back or does it have the long slot like a Python. The Eliason cut is the long slot.....sucks IMO
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The Eliason cut rear sight on my Gold Cup is crooked and I am looking for replacement options. Has anyone had this issue before? Im also wondering what type of sights, and sight picture would be ideal. ie 3 dots, white outline, etc. Any input?
It would be great to find a pic on the net that showed the different types of rear sight setups from the shooter POV but I couldnt google one up.
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The mold is a tumble lube mold. But I'm am curious about the homemade gas checks for my other cast stuff that isn't. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I had the same issue with a Kidd Bolt and Kidd 2 stage trigger. I polished the contact points and it helped. The more we shoot it the better it gets.
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Shot my first hog with a Smith Model 1950 target 45 moon clip gun. Next time i hunt one of those with a pistol it will be a 44 mag or my 35 Rem. The 45 didnt have enough umphhh...and it took three shots to collect my hog. <---insert hunting story. But I have always heard it does a nice job on deer.
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Well with my 357 mass loading out of the way I am on to my 44 mag brass collection. Using Berrys Bullets I landed at 22gr of H110 for the best accuracy out of my Anaconda, but it was a bit peppy and I plan on bringing the jacketed plinking load down to 21 grains, and loading at 22gr for hunting rounds (XTP). But I havent messed around with my Lee Mold (TL430-240-SWC). The mold is dropping a consistent size but I sized them with my Lee push thru for consistency. I'd like to mimic my 21 to 22 grain plated load with TiteGroup or the H110 I have. I have about 600 to load mostly cast. So here's some questions:
Tumble Lube or Powder Coat? Why?
What diameter have you gotten good results from before with out leading?
How do the charge weights vary between plated,cast, and PC?
And finally....what are your favorite loads with H110 or Titegroup ? (I used up all my 2400 on 357's)
Thanks Guys!
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I had never used it until the shortage occurred. I picked up 3 bricks from Midway in differing configurations and I really like the subsonic...wish it would come back!
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13.5 shot great but I wanted I bit more magnum feel. But I agree that's a great load. Sent from my iPhone using [URL=http://tapatalk.com/m?id=1]Tapatalk[/URL]
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WHERES ALL THE 35 Remington AT !!!!
in Ammunition and Reloading
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