vujade

I hope this is cool here. I was able to get a PCR for $499 online. I just checked and they have the P01 for $520. I'll PM you where I got mine.

hi! Per our text, i'll take the lot.

Hi! I have a question - PM me. Thanks!

Update: So.. I guess Dan Wesson 1911s are known to have the wrong front sight once in a while. I contacted them, they asked for some targets and the slide. I got it back in about 2 weeks. It shoots right where I point it now. Happy camper.

Yep, this is my go to load. Super accurate; I love it. By the way, it works well with 185 SWC too.

What is causing this and how do I fix it? I'm using a Dillon 550. Seating die in station 3 only seats the bullet. I have a Lee Factory Crimp die in station 4. Everything is perfect until the 4th station where I feel the case buckle. I reseated the crimp die. I put a good round in there, raise a dummy round and screw in the die until it makes contact. Lower the dummy round and turn in 1/4 of a turn. I raise it up, no issue; very slight crimp but not enough to hold the bullet well (I'm able to push hard and lower the bullet). I screw in the crimp die 1/8 of a turn; and what you see below is what I get. I've tried several cases including new never fired cases. I must have loaded several thousand rounds of 223 by now and this is the first I've seen this. I did not make any drastic changes. In fact, prior to this, I was had loaded about 20 perfect rounds.

So I'm thinking of upgrading my carry from an gen 1 LCP to a micro 1911 (I like the platform and that's what I typically shoot). I understand for 1911s, we check the barrel to slide to frame fit and that's typically an indication of quality/accuracy. I've handled about 3 or 4 different Sig p938s and a Springfield 911 recently. And they are loose - lateral movement of the slide, able to press down and move the barrel, etc. Did I just happen upon poor representaion of these guns? They are just made with super loose fit to improve reliability? How accurate are these guns? Thank you!

Hello. I recently picked up a Dan Wesson CBob (Classic bobtail) in 45ACP. I tried my typicaly 200 Gr + 4.0 gr of Bullseye. That load has been consistently accurate out of other 1911s and Sig p220s. On the Dan Wesson, while groups can cover a playing card, POI is consistenly about 3 inches high. At 7-10 years, they are about 1-2 inches high. I'm shooting with a sandbag. I'm curious on a few things... My loads are light; do light loads tend to shift POI higher? I read that light bullets print lower; I wonder if I make some 185s and see if that makes a difference. Are DW 1911 barrels better with different bullet weights? My mistake is I did not bring any factory rounds; I'll try that next week. Any feedback or lessons would be appreciated. Thank you.

Group at Lower left corner - that was right after we removed the muzzle brake. It changed the POI quite a bit. I adjusted and shot the other 3 groups soon after.

Hello, I took a short break from shooting but now getting into it again. I picked up a Larue Stealth Upper (20 inch) and shot it today. The only factory ammo I had were some 55 grain and factory match loads in 69 grains. I however reload and that was what I primarily shot. My go to load is a little on the light side. 50 or 55 grain pills + 22.3grains of H335. It will do 1.5 MOA and is very easy shooting. It does well in about 3 AR15s I've tested from in 1/9 and 1/7 (A PSA, A Stag and a Troy). After some reading, I loaded up 77 grain Noslers using 23.5 and 24.0 grains of Varget. 2.255 OAL. CCI primers. These were carefully weighed and each loaded. I seem to be getting just a hair above 1 inch at 100 yards (front sandbagged, rear was my left hand and a sandbag). I'm going to start some load development - maybe start at 22.3 and increment up to 24 grains. (i had one pierced primer at 24.0 so it was getting hot). As a note, the gun was shooting about 2 inches and I was getting frustrated until a friend suggested I remove the cheap (maker unknown) muzzle brake...that tightend up the groups to what you see below. Unfortunately we had shot the last of the Federal GMM 69 grainers and most of my reloads by then so the below groups were the last of them... (i didn't wait but more than a few seconds between shots/no cool down period for the barrel). I'm interested in what you all have to say and what types of groups you get from Larue barrels/uppers.

I'm a bit perplexed by this. From what I've been reading, FFL/dealer cannot sell an 18 year old (under 21) a handgun but can a rifle/shotgun. A private party however can sell to said 18 year old. Also, a rifle/shotgun is much more powerful than a handgun. Why is an 18 year old allowed to purchase a rifle/shotgun from a dealer but not a handgun. Why is a non dealer able to sell when a dealer isn't (to an 18 year old). Why the difference?! Second point: at 18, you can join the military and would carry a handgun as part of work. However, when you go home (still under 21), you can't buy the same handgun to protect your own family?! What's the sense in that? This started when I started researching. I have a handgun for sale and and 18 year old offered to purchase it. -- Federal law in this area distinguishes between long guns (rifles and shotguns) and handguns, and between gun possession and gun sales. Federal law also distinguishes between licensed and unlicensed gun sellers. Minimum Age for Gun Sales and Transfers: Under federal law – Handguns Long Guns (Rifles and Shotguns) Licensed firearms dealers Dealers may not sell or deliver a handgun or ammunition for a handgun to any person the dealer has reasonable cause to believe is under age 21.8 Dealers may not sell or deliver a long gun, or ammunition for a long gun, to any person the dealer has reasonable cause to believe is under age 18.9 Unlicensed persons Unlicensed persons may not sell, deliver or otherwise transfer a handgun or handgun ammunition to any person the transferor has reasonable cause to believe is under age 18, with certain exceptions*.10 Unlicensed persons may sell, deliver, or otherwise transfer a long gun or long gun ammunition to a person of any age.

Got it. Handguns are where that extra layer of reporting occurs; for lowers - buying (4) is just like buying (2) or (1)... Trying to understand laws my head hurt.

I'm reading over your reply again Oh Shoot... So, if I buy just (3), it just goes through NICS (National check) but if it's (4), it then goes through TICS (for that extra check on stolen firearms). I think that's a big difference in that our personal data can be kept indifinitely in TICS database. (while it's destroyed at the National level). Am I understanding that correctly?

Thank you everyone for the responses. I have a phobia of black helicoptors so your feedback is much appreciated. Thank you Oh Shoot for the link to the guidelines. From page 26, i learn that the magic number seems to be (3) max and all it requires is another call for a 'stolen gun check'. From what I read, if they use the 'online process', this is not needed. Unless I'm missing something, I should be ok even I purchased say (4) lowers - these lowers would all be new from a vendor and therefore no chance of being stolen.

Thanks guys. Call me paranoid but I just don't want extra attention simply by buying a few extras. I hope someone can chime in - just verify that there isn't an extra form or flag if someone bought 3 or 4 or 5 lowers.