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noylj

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About noylj

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    Just Getting Started

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    Tucson, AZ
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    retired

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  1. I used Precision Bullets coated bullets, but mostly I use std. lead bullets. Precision has the advantage of being swaged for consistent dimensions and weight. I have not found ANY powder faster than AA5 to be truly accurate in 9mm at distances of 25 and 50 yards. If you shoot inside 20 yards, powder and bullet selection is not that critical.
  2. 124-125gn Lead bullet in 9x19: 5.1-5.2gn Unique has been fairly accurate and 6.0gn Unique (be sure to work up to it) has been fairly accurate. Of course, no where near the accuracy of Power Pistol or Silhouette...
  3. For 124gn Lead bullets, my manuals show start loads ranging from 3.8-5.8gn and MAX loads ranging from 4.5-6.0gn. Your max load will depend on your lot of powder and your components. I would run 3.9, 4.2, and 4.5 to start with, and go up if loads seem weak. I know that my lot of Unique does fine with 125gn lead bullets and 4.0-4.5gn of Unique, and I can go up to 5.5gn of Unique, but accuracy is terrible.
  4. .452 250gr load data in acp

    Bullet Weight Powder Weight Velocity Start/Max Power Factor COL L-SWC 250 AA N100 4.0 809 Max 202 L-SWC 250 AA N100 4.3 709 Start 177 L-SWC 250 AA N100 4.8 806 Max 202 L-SWC 250 AA2 4.7 711 Start 178 L-SWC 250 AA2 5.2 808 Max 202 L-SWC 250 AA5 6.4 722 Start 181 L-SWC 250 AA5 7.1 820 Max 205 L-SWC 250 AA7 8.6 732 Start 183 L-SWC 250 AA7 9.5 832 Max 208 L-SWC 250 AA9 10.8 766 Start 192 L-SWC 250 AA9 12.0 870 Max 218 L-SWC 250 Blue Dot 9.0 825 Max 206 1.240 L-RNFP 250 Bullseye 3.9 735 184 L-RNFP 250 Clays 3.3 700 175 L-RNFP 250 Solo 1000 3.5 733 183 L-RNFP 250 TiteGroup 3.8 725 181 L-RNFP 250 Unique 5.0 745 186 Bullet Weight Powder Weight Velocity Start/Max Power Factor COL Lyman #452423 255 Unique 6.0 735 Start 187 Lyman #452423 255 Unique 6.5 780 Max 199 LFP 255 Solo 1000 3.6 685 175
  5. My first squib!

    Take a sport that involves fast shooting, a revolver, and a squib. They don't even have the time to think before the next shot is going off.
  6. LUBE

    Easiest to shoot what you have. You can order as-cast, non-lubed bullets (if you aren't going to cast your own) and save some money you can put to the powder coating. Never tried, but Mineral spirits, turpentine, Simple Green and such will dissolve it--but not quickly. Heat and soak or, maybe, you could tumble (but most wet tumblers could be attacked by the solvents). Heat them up slowly in toaster oven and allow the lube to melt.
  7. bullets vs listed in manuals

    >If you use jacketed load data for cast bullets you will be safe. That is if you have a 115 grain cast bullet you can use 115 jacketed load data without issue. The reason is cast bullets do not generate the same pressures as jacketed is because the cast bullets are softer. Where did you get that idea? Look at jacketed vs. lead data and you'll see that, yes, the lead data reaches about the same velocity and the same pressure, but almost always with LESS powder. That seems to imply that pressure is going up faster with the lead bullet than jacketed. Again, if you look at any magazine that compares loads, you'll find that for handguns and rifles at less then 400 yards, there is almost NO correlation between SD and accuracy. You are almost certainly throwing away a lot of very accurate loads by looking ONLY at SD. If you do an external ballistics calculation for the various velocities, BC, and Sec. Density, you'll find that over a normal spread of velocity, the bullets are all following the same trajectory--for handguns, out to at least 50 yards and for rifles out to at least 200 yards.
  8. 32S&W, 32S&W Long, 32 Mag, 327 Mag

    .32-20 and .32 S&W Long. Only shoot the .32 S&W Long with full wadcutters in target semi-autos and it's only good for about 35 yards, but nice and accurate at 25 yards. Fun little things, but pretty useless.
  9. bullets vs listed in manuals

    What exactly will a chrony do? Unless you know how velocity for the SAME load compares between your gun and their test gun, velocity really tells you very little. Any change in any component can have an effect on pressure/velocity--including the lot number of powder used. The two real uses for a chrony are (1) to achieve a specific power factor for action pistol sports and (2) to generate external ballistics for long range shooting. If you are shooting a XXX gn lead core jacketed bullet, then use the data for the same xxx gn lead core jacketed bullet as in the manual. This is why you start at the start load and work up. If you have a plated bullet, the standard has always been to use lead bullet data. I prefer to check several manuals and use the lowest starting load. If you look at the number of bullet manufacturers out there, if you HAD to have specific data for each bullet, reloading would not exist as no test lab can test all bullets. It used to be that manuals had load for "jacketed" bullets and for "lead" bullets and that was all any one needed.
  10. What's your opinion of W231

    1) It is the same as HP38, but usually costs more 2) It is the most accurate powder I have found for .45 Auto, with Bullseye, Red Dot, and AA2 being close. 3) It works fine in all handgun cartridges, but obviously won't give the same performance as 2400 and 296/H110 in magnums.
  11. Bullets delivered to your door

    My post woman hates when I get bullet orders in the mail.
  12. Ring around brass?

    It can also be used internally by the manufacturer to identify certain loadings. I have a lot of cases with two cannelures and one with three cannelures. Sometimes you can "guess" that a .38 Spl case was used for wadcutter ammo as the cannelure about 3/4" below the case mouth. In jacketed bullets, a cannelure is for the case mouth to be rolled into for a roll crimp. Lead bullets have crimp grooves you can't miss. Why are "what is this ring" questions suddenly popping up in so many forums?
  13. Where to find a Dillon press?

    I found one in the ads on the back of the newsletter that comes with my electricity bill. Found one on Craig's List Found one on eBay Buying a Dillon press new, the best that any dealer can do is throw in some free stuff, as Dillon controls the price of their presses and a dealer who tries to sell under will no longer BE a dealer
  14. The gun is what counts. It they feed and chamber, they are good to go. Using a Lee FCD on a bullet over 0.355" is a good way to swage the bullet down and lose any accuracy. Very BAD choice with lead bullets and over-sized plated bullets. The solution to chambering problems is to determine the cause: Take the barrel out of the gun. Drop rounds in until you find one that won't chamber. Take that round and "paint" the bullet and case black with Magic Marker or other marker. Drop round in barrel and rotate it back-and-forth a few times. Remove and inspect the round: 1) Scratches in the ink on bullet--COL is too long 2) Scratches in the ink on edge of the case mouth--insufficient crimp 3) Scratches in the ink just below the case mouth--too much crimp, you're crushing the case 4) Scratches in the ink on case at base of bullet--bullet seated crooked due to insufficient case expansion (not case mouth flare) or improper seating stem fit 5) Scratches in the ink on case just above extractor groove--case bulge not removed during sizing. May need a bulge buster. I would hazard a guess #4 is the most likely reason...
  15. YouTube will show several. Ponsness Warren is the best known.

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