glockster157

I don't think propane gets hot enough for what I'm doing. Might work for pottery but not heat treating.

I do not currently have access to one....if you don't know them I doubt they would let you waltz in and treat an AK receiver

I am building an AK and and I need to heat treat the receiver....I have everything but  kiln or access to some way of heating the receiver to 1600+ degrees. Anybody got one?

Glock 19 gets my real vote

Closing the loophole is a registration scheme. I can guarantee you that if every gun transferred is ran across a computer data base, at some point that data base will be used against gun owners.

Same here.  PM me when you get some

I wouldn't trust any magazine fed auto unless I have put at least a 100 rounds through it without a hitch. So far my Sig P250 has been flawless

If it was made for the Brits is was probably for a .38-200 revolver MK I. with was a little fatter but shorter than the 38 special and was a .361" bore. When a lot of these were brought back into the states it was common to run a 38 special reamer into the chambers so you could shoot 38 specials but the problem with that is the rear of the case would bulge. If it is not modified to 38 spl it might actually be worth something.

Any quality SW revolver K frame or larger in 38 or 357 (so you can use 38's) would be a good. choice. You should be able to pick up a good K frame for about 300 to 425 from an individual. Revolvers are inherently more accurate than autos due the fact they have fixed frames and have to be tight to operate properly. Autos are just the opposite. Tight leads to jams and loose runs.    Another option would be a good single action. You can find Ruger Blackhawks at decent prices...you have to look around but I have bought them for 275 to 325. Patience is a virtue. But they are great shooters and strong beyond belief.

I recently picked up a Sig P250 9mm sub compact. Being an older guy that loves double action revolvers I found the trigger on the P250 to be Outstanding!   All you younger guys want to be able to cock a revolver/pistol and it really does help you target shoot. But in a real fight you are not going to want a short 3 pound trigger. I love the fact that it has a long smooth light trigger just like my SW 19 and 686 but it is light, fits in my pocket and holds 12+1 rounds of hot 9mm. I may by a 45 compact conversion....but it works so well as a subcompact 9mm i am not sure I want to change it. If I run into another cheap I am going to buy it in a heartbeat.

I bought a Cobra 642 copy a while back for 225....not bad. US made, lifetime warranty. But I also have a SW 642 and I have seen them at gun shows being sold by individuals for as little as 325. But 350 should get a used one anytime. I like the round butt K frames but I really don't like carrying them... a little heavy. Nothing I have ever carried seems as easy as the lightweight 5 shot j frames.  Oh and I have a NAA 22...it is a good summertime pocket get off me gun but I don't want to use it as a daily carry.

SW 3913/3914....I will not part with mine.

I have used 231/HP38 for years...like Leroy said, tighten up the crimp a little.

Here is what I do. I got a #7 drill and a 1/4-20 tap. Take the decapper out or back it out of the way. Drill and tap the primer pocket out, take a 1/4-20 bolt about 3/4 to 1" long and a washer, put it through a socket of the appropriate size and screw it into the case. It will pull it right out. You can buy a stuck case kit from RCBS or I just got the drill bit and tap at Lowes for a few bucks. Everybody has bolts, washers and sockets in the tool box.

I wound up with 250 rounds of new 22WRF....I just shoot it in my 22 mags. Shoots fine, it is like a 22 special I guess. Shorter and lowered power than the mag.

Hi point torture test...pretty impressive.

Starting to load some 300 Win Mags and was just interested in hearing everyone's favorite and most accurate 300 loads. Starting with 150's and 165-168's. I don't have many 180's. I am also more interested in accuracy over velocity. I have IMR7828, IMR4380, WW760, H4350....everything else I have is slower more in the 4895 range or quicker. I am out of 4831. I have made a few loads up to test using Fed cases, CCI mag primers, 72 grains of IMR 4350, 150 Hornady SST's, I seated some .010" off the rifling and some to the cannelure to compare velocities and group size as the ones seated out will not fit into the magazine well. I don't mind single shots for accuracy but I realize I need a load that will fit the magazine as well. I also plan to try the 150/165 Ballistic tips and some 168 grain match loads.

i want it for military brass. So can swage the primer pockets before I clean them. Also sometimes that brass will fight you in the press. I have also encountered some Berdan primed cases mixed in and using a progressive I have broken the decapping pins before I caught it. But I agree that if the primer just pops out onto the ground it can't be in my carpeted living room.

I picked up the prettiest little rifle the other day....I have such a fettish, It is a Ted Williams Model 73...aka a Post 64 Model 70 Winchester with a blind magazine. It has the 3 position safety, good bluing, adjustable trigger and a good looking stock, though someone may have polyurethaned it along the way...I think these came oiled but I could be wrong. Anyways, I was surprised at how well it shot. I could keep 3 Hornady 168's with 4064 about an inch at a hundred. Gotta try some 150s next. Here it is after I put a set of rings(all I had was weaver and Talleys...need some Leupold bases) and a scope installed.

I am sure this has been discussed but I am thinking of building a Uber light weight AR..I figure if you go with a good polymer lower, a really light stock of some sort, a pencil barrel, a small sight setup and use 20 round polymer mags you might be able to get one down there. One last thing....let's add low cost! 1. Who makes the best poly lower? 2. Who makes the lightest weight stocks? 3. What would be the lightest sight setup? 4. Who makes a decent priced pencil barrel upper? I looked at J&T's Double Stars at the Nashville show...decent but I don't know if they are the lightest.

Wow, 6500 cases....let us know, I have thought of getting one myself as I have a 5 gallon bucket and several bags of brass that needs depriming.

Just an FYI, I have not shot these for groups and tight SD's and ES's do not always translate into good groups but I had a chance to put 5 150 grain Sierras over 44.0 grains of 2460, LC cases and WW primers today. Velocity was 2776 avg, ES was 29 and SD was 11.

Those were some handsome and quick handling rifles. Mostly reliable and decently accurate. I have had 742's in 06 but not a 740, not sure of the difference. I could usually get 2.5 to 3" 3 shot groups...it get hot and starts throwing them in the 4 plus range after that. Good gun for the woods where shots are going to be inside a 100 and quick.

I picked up an 1100 a while back that someone had tried to install an easy loader on. It just wasn't working. it would cause the bolt to stick open between shots even though there were rounds in the tube, Simple fix, buy a new carrier which I did and that fixed it. Now, I have this idea. Fix the old carrier with the easy loader on it to where it can't hold the bolt open....ever. See this is a tactical shotgun with a 20" barrel and a 9 shot tube....I just want to be sure what to grind off to make this possible. I still have the new carrier to fall back on if I want to change it back to a lock open on an empty chamber.

MIne would be the 1. P-08 Luger...just a classic 2. CZ-75 the most copied and used pistol design in the world 3. Glock 17 as it was the first accepted polymer pistol and striker fired system....it is the gateway gun to all the others.