stumpy

You can get into handloading if you wish, but be aware that there are critical shortages of the major components necessary to load ammo.  Handgun powders simply do not exist in TN to any appreciable quantity or variety.  If you do find powder it may be either a series that is new to you (not a comfortable thing for the new handloader) or is so badly overpriced you would rather walk away from it.  Brass is hit & miss, primers fair, bullets improving.  Factory ammo sells for $0.50 - 1.25 per round.  Handloads of equal performance will go for $0.15 - 0.35 each with your used brass.  If you cast your own bullets, the cost goes well below $0.15.   If you must stay with factory loaded ammo, one of the handier tools for locating what you need is a computer search titled gunbot.net.  After the .net add the following:  /357  or  /gunpowder  or  /(whatever you need).  You may not know all the sellers, but another computer search of their name should help you locate them.    I have been handloading for about 44 years and the current shortages are the worst I have seen, suspect we all know how this happened.  This will change.  Start now gathering your handloading tools, most essential of these being a new comprehensive reloading manual.  Read it cover to cover (loading procedures, not the specific cartridge data), then read it again.  Nothing matters as much as being safe with handloading.     Good luck with your search.   Stumpy

A friend of mine is an experienced shooter and handloader.  Intelligent, safe, experienced handloader.  He is also emotional.  He had just bought a S&W 1917 revolver in 45acp caliber and wanted to wring it out at the range but had no ammo loaded.  Off to the bench for a short loading session he went, then to the range.  At the sound of the first shot, he thought to himself "Wow, this pistol has some mighty recoil!"  At the sound of the second shot handgun bits and pieces went flying!!!  The top of cylinder and the topstrap were gone!  He checked and found no damage to his hand, arm, or any other body part.  He packed up everything he had and drove home.  He walked straight back to his bench and started looking over his components.  He had used 45acp brass that was clean and little used, correct large pistol (standard) primers, 230 grain jacketed bullets, and a correct pistol powder (still in the measure).  All looked good.  He threw a charge of powder into the pan and weighed it, and it was his correct charge weight.  He confirmed the charge weight by checking his handloading manual.  And then time stopped.  At the top of the page he was reading he saw the source of his misery.  In his rush to load ammo for his 45acp revolver he had opened his manual to data for 45 Colt.  He had overloaded his short 45acp cases with data for the longer 45 Colt caliber.  This simple error, made in haste, cost him a fine handgun.  It also cost him endless teasing by all who learned about the event.  Could have been worse, a lot worse.  He escaped with no physical damage but his ego was destroyed.  Since that time he has double and triple checked his loading data at every loading session.  Seems that this lesson was well learned.  And remembered.   Stumpy                     if 

H335 is one of my favorite powders in the smaller capacity cases.  Some time back I worked up loads for 7.62x39 in an AR with the common 125-128 weight bullets.  Like your experience I found that the higher charge weight I loaded, the tighter the groups became.  Apparently this powder likes to be pushed to the pressure limits, and that is where it shines.     There was also a much older group size issue I had been having with a H&R Handi-Rifle in 30/30.  I had tried 150-170 weight bullets with all burn rates of powders, fast to slow, and charge weights from start to max.  Also tried factory loaded ammo, but got the same results as my handloads.  That rifle kept thumbing it's short little nose at me.  Groups ranged from disappointing to awful.  Then came the day I read about another loader using a light weight bullet (Sierra 125 gr. flat nose) over H335 (in a different 30/30 rifle) and bragging about his group size.  Why not try it, says me.  Got all the components and assembled slightly reduced loads, also some that went toward the other poster's reviewed load.  WOW!!! The rifle suddenly said - "I like it.  I love it.  I want some more of it!"  Groups that had been in the softball (and larger) size range suddenly went to 2" (lighter loads) and as powder charges increased groups shrank to just over 1", 5 shots at 100 yards.  Not only did the Handi-Rifle love this load, a Marlin 336A also responded to it (and put venison in the freezer with this load).  I also tried other powders behind this bullet but none gave me the results I found with the H335.  Bottom line, as long as you do not pass the pressure barrier this powder will give you both speed and accuracy in the smaller cases.  Your rifle (and brass) will tell you when you have reached that point.  Some may question whether the Handi-Rifle simply needed a lighter weight bullet.  I later loaded 150 and 170 grain bullets over H335 and saw immediate improvements in group size.  Still, both rifles shine with the 125 Sierras.   As for using H335 in .223, not yet.  I still have some bulk AA2230S to plow through before going anywhere else in the .223.  When that is gone, I have H335 waiting to be loaded in those cases.     Stumpy

Since you know the seller ask to try out the rifle before buying it.  These little rifles were reasonably well made but not in great quantities.  I tried to locate parts for one about 2 years ago and discovered that none of the parts dealers have anything for them.  What this means is that if the rifle you are considering does not function in absolutely perfect fashion when you test fire it, either pass on it or calculate a trip to the repair shop into the final price if you buy it.     Stumpy

Your T14 looks much better cleaner and with stronger blue than the majority of the others I have seen in quite a while.  Well done!  If you need info or data on handloading for that pistol I can share the details with you.  Throw me a PM with phone number, all the details can get a bit lengthy.   Stumpy

The only one of these I have personally handled was a Wilkinson Sherry (it came in as a repair request), no actual time with either of the others.  This Wilkinson was a very well made pistol that was suffering from failure to feed - caused by dry-firing and creating a burr on the rear of the chamber.  Judicious application of a chamber swage cured the problem.  The pistol was reliable to feed up and function with a variety of ammo after the correction was completed.  Sadly, that line is discontinued.  All of the remaining parts are in the hands of a single shop that bought ALL of the Wilkinson remaining stock.  Take caution here as any needed parts may not be available if you have a failure with a Wilkinson.  Good luck with your search.   Stumpy.

Ranger431, look back at the suggestions I posted.  As you test torx bits (going from smaller to larger) you will look for the last bit that will enter the cavity.  If it spins without grabbing metal, go to the next larger size bit.  If it will not enter the recess (and it probably will not), gently drive it into the cavity, trying to get it to find the bottom of the recess.  This will give the bit the maximum amount of "grab" in the head.  Mount your driver handle on the bit and turn the screw out.  Apply a steady, increasing pressure to turn the handle, don't try to "jerk" or "snap" the handle to get it to start moving.  Also, remember that you may need to deepen the hole with a drill so the bit can get enough engagement to do it's job.  If the screw has a very shallow recess to begin with, you should deepen the recess before starting this procedure.   BTW, please advise me the size or measurement of the allen wrenches you have been using on these screws, this will help with my recommendations on torx bit sizes.   As a side thought, this weekend (sometime after Christmas) I will be near Hurricane Mills (I-40, exit 143) traveling to my camp for another round of chasing Bambi.  If we could meet there I would be happy to take a look at your project.  Shout back.   Stumpy

Ranger431, I read your post and cannot determine if your screws are stripped at the head recess (where the allen wrench falls into the screw) or along the threaded body of the screw.     If the allen wrench spins in the head, but the screw will not turn, grab a set of torx driver bits.  Start with the smallest size bit and put it into the screw.  If that bit will spin but not engage the screw head, move up to the next larger bit.  Repeat these steps until you find a bit size that will enter the screw and WILL engage the head (not spin freely).  Use that bit to remove the screw.  It will work if it can engage enough of the metal in the head.  Then again, what if your recess in the screw head is really round and smooth.  Find the largest screw that will enter that head and spin but NOT engage the head.  Now go to the next larger bit - the smallest torx driver that will  NOT enter the recess.  This is the bit you need.  Position your foregrip such that the bottom of the screw is resting on a solid surface (bench top??).  Position the bit directly over the recess and use a small hammer (brass or steel) to drive the bit into the recess with light taps, trying to drive the bit to the bottom of the recess.  (If you get only a small part of the bit into the screw you may strip out the top of the recess again.)  Once deeply driven into the recess the bit will remove the screw.  These screws, when removed, will require replacement.  To carry this discussion further, suppose the recess in the screw heads is really shallow. It may be necessary for your to use a drill to slightly deepen these cavities so the drivers can get enough bite to work.  This would be your call.   If, on the other hand, the threaded body of the screw is what is stripped, you are looking at a drill-out or similar response to the challenge.     Good luck with your project.   Stumpy

I have been routinely disappointed by the poor accuracy (group sizes) for every Mini (223 or 7.62) I have fired. While these rifles function reliably I require a tighter accuracy standard than they can deliver. Despite this I still had an interest in the 7.62x39 cartridge for close range deer hunting as it delivers approximate 30/30 energy. Several years back I acquired a complete AR upper in 7.62x39 and developed loads for it that deliver 1.5" groups @ 100 yards. I then used it to collect a doe (the deer hunting woods are my ballistics laboratory). The shot was well placed and the deer responded very similarly to having been hit by a 243. As others have stated the Mini platform is reliable and would service well if your group size standard can be met by it's production. Just my 2-cents worth. Stumpy

Before you begin searching for parts and replacing your current fire pin and spring, wouldn't it be prudent to test fire several rounds of various brands of ammo to determine whether you actually need to do this? Does your 23 pound mainspring and current fire pin and spring combination give you consistent ignition, are fire pin marks in the primers deep and uniform, etc. etc. If a need exists, respond to it as required. If the need is not there you would be swapping parts more on a "want" basis than a "need". A simple test fire session could save you time and coins. Stumpy

Hornady components are among the less expensive in the market. In spite of this I have found their bullets to be as accurate (for group size) and effective on game as I could require. I have used more expensive components from other makers and find myself usually going back to the Hornady brand. They satisfy me in the field and wallet alike. Stumpy

Many years back I found a WW 12 gauge slug load with the projectile loaded upside-down, fresh out of the 5-pack box. Looking at it from the front it reminded me of one of the older British man-stopper rounds. That hollow base made one monster of a hollow-point appearance! We had bought these new, direct from the distributor (if not drop-shipped direct from the manufacturer). I still have that single round somewhere, probably with a handful of other "keepers" I haven't seen in a while. Stumpy

If you prefer to use a "wet" lube look for Shooters Choice FP-10 lube. I had been using the Shooters Choice solvent for several years and was getting really fantastic results from it when I saw that the same company offered a lube. Got one bottle to try and found it is really slick. So slick, in fact, that Kimber recommends it for the break-in period of their Solo pistols. This is the first time I remember a manufacturer making a specific recommendation for a lube during break-in. One of the instructors at the NRA summer classes at Montgomery Community College (I think it is the class where advanced 1911 builds are taught) requires his students to bring FP-10 for the class, and states that no other lube will be allowed. For both a manufacturer and a high-skill craftsman to recommend FP-10 is enough for me. Not that I needed their recommendation to start 9r continue using this product, but it reinforces my own observations. Try it, you'll like it. (Sorry for that last, had a flash-back...) Stumpy

Back in 1976 a close friend asked me to find him a Marlin 336 in 35 Remington caliber for deer hunting. I found him a like new rifle for a really low price (even then). Fast forward to about 5 years ago he and I were talking about hunting. He explained all he is hunting now is turkies. I asked about the 336 and he still had it. He brought it out of hiding and it still looked new. I offered to buy it but he refused. Instead he GAVE it to me and refused to accept any payment. However, he said he was searching for a short shotgun for home protection (in addition to the various handguns he owns). A short time later I presented him with a Remington 870, 20" barrel, matt finish, black synthetic furniture. He claimed it was exactly what he had been trying to find and asked the price. I answered "You can pay me........exactly what I recently paid you for a Marlin rifle." He answered with a slow, sly grin, then turned and put the 870 in his storage room. Isn't friendship fun. Stumpy

One of the most common causes of cylinder binding in a revolver comes from the build-up of debris that gathers between the rear face of the cylinder and the forward face of the ejector. This trash could be unburned powder, lead or brass fragmants that have come from the rounds that were fired in that cylinder. Frequently this material is so small it can be all but impossible to see, yet the revolver knows it is there and responds accordingly. The immediate cure for this is for the user to take a toothbrush and brush away these contaminates. Open the cylinder, push the ejector to the rear and hold it open. Gently brush out the rear surface of the cylinder, also the forward face of the ejector that makes comtact with the cylinder, also the ejector rod between them. Next, use a Q-tip and solvent to clean, then dry, all of these areas. If handloads are being fired examine them for high primers as well. They can cause immediate cylinder binding. If all of this does not correct the issue the firearm may have a mechanical failure that will need to be addressed. Stumpy

My first encounter on finding brass in the same caliber but using either large or small primers based on who manufactured the brass was with 7.62X39.  That was about 12-15 years ago.  Then it happened to me again with the 45 ACP.  Ammo loaded with either size primer was reliable to fire and function, gave me the option of using the primer size of my choice or as available, had no effect on accuracy, but did require that I sort and separate brass for this feature.  In the long run, I don't care which size primer sparks my loads.  Both have worked well for me for ages (well, I am a bit long on the tooth) and I trust they will continue to do so well after I have quit this activity.  Let's jus hope that Berdan primers don't come back into favor with the brass makers.  That would be a real pain.  Will this dual primer size occur with another caliber???  Probably.  Who knows which caliber will be next?  The Shadow do, but he ain't telling.   Stumpy

I've been a fan of the 3" barrel length in the J and K frames for many years.  Currently have J frames in 22, 32 and 38 caliber, also K frame, all with the 3 inch tube.  The longer sight radius makes a grand improvement in accurate shot placement, plus a bit move velocity to boot.  The barrel is more compact, more portable than the longer tubes.  A nice and handy length that has been overlooked by too many people.   Stumpy

Whitewolf001, I started with a cast RCBS JR in 1970.  Still have it and would use it but got a deal on a RCBS RC and upgraded to the toggle linkage.  A cast press should out-live you, and perhaps another generation of your family.  No, have never owned an aluminum press, but have seen several owned by friends that failed to hold up to the continuous, heavy use like I gave my RCBS.  If you are looking for handgun cartridge service, aluminum should work out for you.  With rifle calibers, especially with case sizing and/or forming, you will appreciate a cast press immediately.  They are a no BS press that will give you more service than the initial cost suggests.  With handloading you have only 2 groups of materials to buy:  equipment (press, dies, and other durable goods) and components (consumable items of powder, primer, bullet). Replacement of equipment suggests either poor quality equipment, abuse by the user, or an intentional upgrade (ie, steel to carbide).  Replacement of components is expected and necessary, or you aren't shooting!  Invest wisely in your equipment and this should be a one-time investment. 

+1 for Kroil.  Recently I had to remove a 308 case from the chamber of a Ruger 77.  The round had fired, the bolt handle would raise, but the case simply refused to move.  I stripped the barrel action of all unnecessary parts (stock, scope, etc) and loaded the chamber with Kroil.  Let it sit 2 days in a cool area.  When ready to start I tipped the muzzle down and let all excess Kroil exit the muzzle.  I passed a 1/4" steel rod (with plactic electrical tape wrapped along it's length) down the bore and bottomed it in the case.  One modest tap with a wooden mallet and the case flew out of the chamber.  This was a Prvi Partizan cartridge, commercial 308, no flattening of the primer nor excessive swelling in the web area.  The case looked very irregular, like a poorly finished piece of brass with a lot of dimples and irregularities but did not suggest a dirty chamber (rifle is pristeen), and I suspect just a poorly made case.  The chamber and bore looked correct, no indication of crud to cause the stuck case, but of course the Kroil could have removed that as well.   As another comment, that same day another challenge was a Mossberg AR-style rifle with a live .223 round stuck in the chamber.  The owner was shooting it, all was going well until this round chambered.  The hammer fell, but the round failed to fire.  When I got the bolt open and the live round out, here was ANOTHER Prvi Partizan cartridge.  The fire pin had not hit the primer and the brass showed it had bottomed out in the chamber (bright contact marks on the shoulder of the brass).  This cartridge turned out to be long in the chamber - the shoulder was too far forward to allow the bolt to completely close on it.  It is odd that the bolt was not completely locked in battery, yet the timing of the trigger group allowed the hammer to fall, and the fire pin did not find the primer.   Quick summary - I will stay away from Prvi ammo (case headstamp PPU) and will recommend that to others as well. And I will always have Kroil nearby.   Stumpy

Many new handloaders find tons of manuals available online.  You can shop there (and elsewhere) to find less expensive reference materials, but BUY and USE only the newest, latest issued manuals available from the various major components manufacturers.  The reason for this is that we (the entire firearms industry) are constantly learning, even at this time after many years of this activity being followed.  We used to measure chamber pressure with the copper-crusher method, and have now largely moved into the piezo-electric method which is much more accurate.  End result - many calibers and loads rated for pressure by the copper-crusher method in previous years have now been found to be excessive (high) when measured by the piezo-electric method and are being reduced.  Maximum powder charges with a specific bullet in a given caliber are being reduced in many calibers.  Some argue these reductions are lawyer-speak for excessive safety.  That isn't necessarily so.  When a company issues loading data, they are staking their reputation and liability on the line that the load will be safe in any firearm properly chambered for that caliber.  The handloader who exceeds listed load recommendations toys with disaster to his firearm and personal safety.  It just ain't worth it!  Enjoy your new handloading activity with the goals of ammunition safety, reliability, accuracy and economy, probably in that order.  It's quite an addiction.   Stumpy

Fumes to kill or weaken ammo?  Nope, can't buy it at all.  However, I'm more willing to bet this instructor was only wanting to get the students to get into the safe practice of removing ammo from the area where they are working on their firearm.  He invented this claim to help "encourage" them to put their ammo away while handling and manipulating their firearm.  He gets the results he wanted (removing ammo from the location where the firearm is being handled) by being over-dramatic with the topic of ammunition deterioration.  If his lecture and BS claim gets the end result of safety, let him live in peace.  Safety first, last and always.  Job well done, Mr. Instructor.   Stumpy

No, but I am very interested in the 6-45 caliber as well as the 25-45 chambering.  My application would be in a bolt action most likely but I would appreciate hearing others experiences with either caliber.   Stumpy

A couple of others:   Gun Garage  479-524-2038   Lee's Gun Parts  972-790-0773  Tue-Wed-Th only   Outback Gun Parts  812-945-0480   Ahlman's Gun Parts  507-685-4244   All of these guys have more of the older parts and hopefully one of them will have what you need.   Stumpy

Will magazine springs take a "set"?  Absolutely.  Is this caused by being continuously compressed, or from the occasional compression/decompression?  Sorry, I can't help you with that one.  There are many theories about what causes mag set, but what really matters is that it does happen.  A weak mag spring will lead to feeding issues (more  than anything else) and ejection issues (commonly seen as stovepipes).  When these appear make a close inspection of the spring and plan for a replacement.  I prefer the overpower replacement springs from Wolff and watch the malfunctions disappear.  Be sure to trash your original springs as soon as they are out of the mag body to keep from using them again later by accident.  Also, closely inspect the mag body at the top for wear and tear, part of the mag chipped away, splits, etc. - speaking here about Glock mags and other polymer mag bodies.  If the mag body shows any of these ills, replace the entire mag.  A new mag spring, or entire magazine, is cheap insurance that your firearm will function as designed when needed.  Take your house pistol to the range occasionally and fire it to confirm correct function.  If it works correctly, all is well,  If it shows issues with feeding or ejection, start your inspection with the magazine and it's spring.  After all, wouldn't you want to find out your firearm had a function issue to correct at the range rather than when actually needing and using it. Stumpy

Sidewinder, I considered this change in past times for one of my Hornet rifles and IIRC the "K" variant allows only a very slight increase in bullet velocity compared against the original version.  Downsides were costs of having the barrel reamed, or of buying the reamer, buying a set of non-standard dies, possibly selling off the rifle at a later time and finding a buyer who understood and appreciated the "K", making this modification to a rifle that could take the pressures of a Hornet or "K" loaded to maximum pressures to benefit from the modification, etc.  All things considered, I chose to remain with the original case profile and work to find that special loading which gave the tightest group size at a velocity that suited my needs.  As for mega speed out of a Hornet, someone once said that if you want to drive a bigger nail (heavier or faster bullet), buy a bigger hammer.  The market is full of 222, 223, etc. calibers for greater speed.  For my needs I will stay with the original Hornet and enjoy it as it was designed.  I'm not trying to discourage your interest in a wildcat caliber, just want you to be aware of some of the bear traps in that market.  Good luck with your decision. Stumpy