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OilheadMike

Inactive Member
  • Posts

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  • Joined

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About OilheadMike

  • Birthday 01/19/1952

Profile Information

  • Location
    Athens, AL
  • Gender
    Male
  • Interests
    Bible Study, Shooting, Motorcycles and Motorcycle Touring
  • Occupation
    Retired Engineer

Miscellaneous

  • Handgun Carry Permit
    Yes
  • Law Enforcement
    No
  • Military
    Yes
  • NRA
    Yes
  • Carry Weapon #1
    Sig P226 .40
  • Carry Weapon #2
    Ruger LC9 9mm

OilheadMike's Achievements

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Reputation

  1. Erik88, max congrats. I taught the MSF Basic and Advanced courses for 11+ years, I have logged almost 600,000 miles riding, currently own a 2016 BMW R1200RT and a 1995 BMW R100RT. Iron Butt Association with 1000 and 1500 mile 24-hour certificates. Safe riding, keep at least 5 to 15 seconds scan ahead of you in normal traffic, two seconds scan in traffic and busy sections. I grew up in east Tennessee, now live in Athens, AL.
  2. MikeW, Thanks a ton for your very able assistance. I'll go to the P.38 forum in the future. Yes, the slide removes fine. The gun is easy to take down and clean and the bore is excellent. Took me a bit to figure some things out, but disassembly and reassembly wasn't too dramatic. The slide springs are OK and cycle nicely. The locking block is a nice tight fit but moves easily. I'll check the links and then I'll contact Luger Doc if I'm still stumped. I don't wanna spend a lot of $$$ on this gun. It's a relic, all I care is that it's functional - I have no qualms with retiring it and simply make it a display piece. Mucho thanks again, Mike S Stafford, VA
  3. MikeW, Thanks for the quick response. The gun's slide tends to jam on each shot, because the take-down lever is loose, rotates downward slightly, and the shaft then binds the slide as it returns to chamber the next round. I manage this by holding the lever horizontal on trigger squeeze so it doesn't jam. Next, the hammer doesn't always fully cock, or there is some slop in the trigger linkage, that results in no firing when I pull the trigger. I manage this by re-cocking the hammer, and then it will fire. Finally, I have a misfire about every four to seven rounds. Usually, a re-cock will fire the round. But so far, I have had four complete duds, with the primer dented somewhat. I kept the rounds and will see if they fire next time I have my Ruger 9mm with me at the range, Overall, the gun has a generally loose and sloppy action. However, the bore is excellent and it groups beautifully at 10 yards. I'm impressed with the accuracy and the grouping of the pistol. So far, I have fired about 60 rounds. I'm using boxed 9mm Luger ammo. But it's a pain. One last thing - it appears a past owner or dealer had the thing nickel plated. This seems to be a general no-no from a purity and asthetics viewpoint. I can fin no photos of nickel or shiny chrome-plated P.38s. Thanks, Mike S
  4. Greetings All: I found this Forum through searching for Walther P.38 9mm sites. I'm originally from Newport, TN, east of the I-81 / I-40 junction, on I-40. Joined the Navy in 1970, retired in 1993. I was an aviation electrician and later got commissioned and was a Naval Aviator, primarily flying the F-14 and the A-4. I have a Mauser-manufactured P.38, made in late 1944. Got it recently from my Dad. I know nothing of the history of the pistol. Been to the firing range twice now, and it needs some good TLC by a good gunsmith. Can anyone point me to a gunsmith who knows the P.38, preferably in Virginia, but anywhere will do. I live in Stafford, on I-95 just south of the Quantico Marine Corps base. Any help much appreciated. Thanks, Mike Michael S. Shelton, Stafford, VA

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