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MemphisMechanic

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Everything posted by MemphisMechanic

  1. Everyone prefers the 9mm to the .40 when it comes to shooting a gun straight and shooting it fast. The more compact the gun is, the more glaring the advantage becomes.
  2. Walther PPS. While I’m fond of the M&P Shield and Glock 43 type options... in the “subcompact singlestack large enough to actually fight with” competition? The PPS is the most shootable for me. And that’s not subjective: I shot it well enough in a USPSA match that I’ve got a Shield with night sights and some stippling I’ll have to get around to selling eventually now! One of the stages from that little adventure: https://instagram.com/p/BgnJSRllPxk/
  3. I don't really shoot practice except for local matches to stay tuned up for major ones... And even in a casual Tuesday night league it's no fun having to rack rounds out of the gun. If I was a casual Plummer it wouldn't be an issue at all. Here's the video from this weekend's USPSA match - managed a 1st place in Production Division even with more than a few rounds going CLICK! https://youtu.be/-AUHvJJNW2s
  4. I'm on the fence about selling 9,000 Wolf small pistol primers... I stepped out of shooting around 5 years ago and just got back into it... and even though they were kept indoors, my primers aren't perfectly reliable like they previously were. In a USPSA match this weekend I had six primers out of 400 rounds go click instead of bang. For match ammo, that's unacceptable. (I know they weren't high primers as I check them all and bump any round that went through my 650 without a below-flush primer a second time.) I actually just lucked into Federals (someone had some!!!) at a damn good price, so I'm set for what to use from now on. However, while those Wolf primers won't suffice for match or defensive ammo, I'm potentially comfortable seeing if one of my local shooting friends is comfortable buying them for plinking ammo - maybe $20 per thousand or so - enough of a discount to make buying them worth it. What are your thoughts? Would you sell them or trash them? Assuming, like myself, you really don't make casual range trips and need a bang 100% of the time.
  5. What he said. They are numbered in order of their introduction. And actually, you can't find a G18, 25, or 28. There are three unobtanium guns. The 18 is select-fire full auto... and the other two are .380s which don't meet ATF import criteria. Very simple system, just not an easy to understand one.
  6. I like the Sierra manual's data. The binder format is designed to make it easy to swap out pages with newer data. In reality, it makes it easy for the current pages to tear and fall out. I will choose a different manual for this reason when it gets a few more years out of date.
  7. If in doubt, guess long when it comes to OAL. The less bullet you have stuffed back in the case, the more case volume you'll have. Which means lower pressures. Worst thing that happens if you lengthen a round too much, is that it won't feed in your gun, or is too soft to consistently cycle it. Worst thing that happens if you shorten a round too much, is a KABOOM: 9mm tightgroup - Brian Enos's Forums... Maku mozo! OAL varies by gun, too. My Glock34 would eat soft 147gr handloads well out past the 1.150" length I usually loaded them to. In fact, a 9mm round could be loaded too long to fit in the magazines before it affected how the gun cycled. But the same 147 Precision Delta FMJ bullet will not chamber in an M&P 9L unless it's shorter than 1.125".
  8. Mine come off the web. Bullets (FMJ) Precision Delta - The Ammunition of Champions www.montanagold.com Bullets (Moly) www.blackbulletsinternational.com Primers & Powder www.powdervalley.com Graf & Sons - The Reloading Authority I have ordered 7,000 9mm FMJs from P.D. and 18,000 130gr Moly's from BlackBullets this year. I have 18lbs of Solo1000 and 7 pounds of titegroup in the garage. About 4,000 Winchester and 24,000 Wolf Small Pistol primers remaining. I suppose I should mention that I'm a competitive shooter who burns a lot of ammo, and also that I shoot with Black Bullets International's name on my shirt. So I tend to shoot Tony's rounds whenever I can. They're cheap, accurate, and clean. And his wait time is the best anywhere right now. 18K worth of bullets took about 2 weeks to arrive at my door.
  9. 1. Because I'd rather give my money to someone I trust. 2. Because it's none of your damn business.
  10. Excellent product: BrianEnos.com Electronic Digital Powder Scale
  11. When in doubt, guess long. Most manuals will go VERY short on length. Somewhere in the realm of a 1.100-1.110" length, and that is what you'll see from a lot of factory ammo. When in doubt, go with the lighter powder charge, and the longer OAL, and work your way up to anything resembling a max load. Most competitive shooters (particularly those running a 1911 in 9mm) load extremely long by comparison. My loads for my Glock 34 were 1.145" ... and theirs were typically in the 1.160" neighborhood. (SAAMI max spec for the 9mm is 1.169" OAL.) The reason I recommend that you load long, is that pressures will be lower than a short round, because of the additional case volume. I would have recommended a length of 1.125" off the top of my head, as that is a bit longer than many manuals start with, and I have never found a pistol that won't feed a 115gr in that length. Guess what? The powder manufacturer agrees. Alliant Powder - Reloader's Guide By the way, you can treat a TMJ like an FMJ when it comes to velocity - it's a bit cleaner due to the lack of an exposed lead base, but the jacket results in velocities pretty much identical to a standard FMJ. Yes, I've chrono'd both and speak from experience with a Speer 147 TMJ and a Precision Delta 147 FMJ with the same powder charge under both of them. Their websites velocity (1233 from a 4" barrel is a pretty hot load) would probably have me start with 6.1gr at 1.125" OAL, and work up. 6.3 could turn out to be a bit... snappy.
  12. I can take care of that for you, possibly. We hold an IDPA match every Tuesday night at the TWRA range in Bartlett from 6pm-9pm, and I do have an MGW sight pusher. Won't cost you anything. I also just jumped ship to the M&P Platform, and put this together for the guys on the M&P forum a few weeks back: I know my way around both guns pretty well. Striker replacement on a Glock or an M&P takes about 30 seconds. Care to give us a few more details about what you're doing to each gun, and how many guns? The M&P is the easiest gun in the world to perform a trigger job on, by the way.
  13. I can vouch for that. I've shot more than one match at RangeMaster, and never attended a class there... yet. That door is certainly wide open, funds eventually permitting. However, they know they don't have to worry about me when it comes to safety violations - not that any of us will ever stop looking when holding a timer. The just have to worry about me beating them once the scores are finalized. It probably helps to be personally known to the guys who run the match, and also to be an IDPA Master and a certified IDPA Safety Officer. *shrug*
  14. It's not the simplest gun in the world. By a long shot. I would keep the internet directions handy the first time through. But it cracks me up how scared people are of the MkII... even just field-stripping the stupid thing. It's not that hard if you understand what you're actually trying to align when reassembling. If you're just rolling the gun around trying to get the stupid mainspring latch to close, it's going to be a while.
  15. Not much when compared to the case price from Precision Delta and Montana Gold Bullet ... really. It constantly amazes me how much people are willing to pay for FMJs, just because they don't know where to shop. Frontier, Berrys, and Rainer all charge more for PLATED bullets than either PD or MG want for jacketed.
  16. Per 50 rounds?!? They better have a bunch left in stock at that price. Yeesh...
  17. Also, a lot of powders are well known for not playing well with the Dillon measure. Especially stick powders for rifle loads. Even the most rabid dillon fan will admit this. I know of people who have swapped a green or red powder measure onto their 550/650, and Dillon makes an adapter themselves to facilitate it. That says something.
  18. Most indoor ranges won't let you shoot lead, and you shouldn't even if they do. If you load lead, use a cleaner powder (Unique and Solo1000 are popular). Stay away from a powder like Titegroup, as it burns so hot you'll lose the ability to see the target. And keep the velocity down. Warp-speeds are what cause leading. Soft 125gr and 147gr loads (900-1,050ish fps) through my M&P result in zero lead in my barrel. Push it up a few hundred FPS and you'll start to see serious leading.
  19. Your press isn't bolted down nearly securely enough. A Dillion 650 that's on a bench must be bolted to the wall. Period. My bench is massive. Weighs over 250 pounds and has 100-150 feet of 2x4 in the frame... and a 1/5" thick top. Still needed lag-screwed to the studs. Secure the bench to the wall, make sure it's rock solid, and you will NOT have flipped primers in a 650 unless something is incorrectly adjusted, or you're loading them into the machine wrong. Use motor oil on the main ram for the press. Works great, doesn't rust, and hardly ever needs reapplied. On average, I crush 2 or 3 primers (crappy brass, it's always the same headstamps) and *might* have one wind up upside down. This is in a 1,000-1,500 round reloading session. Tell Dillon you lost the spring. Don't bother to lie and say it broke. Tell them you lost it. They'll have a new one in the mail the next day at no charge. Get the spare parts kit sometime soon, too. All frequently lost or damaged parts are found in it. Bolting the machine to the wall, taking *all* the slop out of the shellplate, and operating the handle exactly the same every time will cure your OAL issues. Even then, it's a progressive machine. 0.010-0.015 variation is what you will see from any press like this. If you want better match-grade ammo, well, that rockchucker is very tough to beat for it. I can't help with the parts loss or any of that. I have never changed calibers, and never will, on my machine. IMO, the 650 is not what you're looking for. The 650 is for the person who wants to load 2,000+ rounds very quickly, change calibers, and do the same thing. So you're only changing calibers every few months. Even with multiple toolheads, there are a lot of things to change, and adjustments to be made. Especially the priming system. IMO, if you're going to load a couple hundred rounds or less, switch calibers, and repeat... You would like your Dillon much more if you'd bought a 550.
  20. I don't do any sorting. Just run it through a shellsorter to weed out the .40s and the like, clean it, and load it. Most of my brass comes from an indoor range's IPDA match, so there's a rare 380 here and there that sneaks in from public use of the range beforehand. No Mak to worry about. .380s are easy to spot because they resize effortlessly. The handle on my Dillon 650 moves like the sizing station is empty. So I pluck that case after I index it to the priming station, and pitch it. Ever resize a 38Super with a press setup for 9mm? Damn things look like trumpets when you flare the case mouth.
  21. Is your bench bolted to the wall? Is the casefeeder support tube also attached at all? The number one cause of this in a 650 is a machine on a bench that isn't solid as granite. My bench is 250-300 pounds, and has over 150 feet of 2x4 used in it's construction. It's massive. And bolting it to the wall *still* cut down my jams by a factor of five.
  22. The 9mm barrel is smaller in diameter than the .40 one... the hole in the slide (muzzle) is sized for the larger barrel. Buy a conversion barrel (LoneWolf's is pretty well priced) if you want to do this safely.
  23. Glock 19. Best carry gun ever produced by man.

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