I40Bandit

Fox or 'yote....I would guess 'yote. Mostly I only catch a single distant shot or two in a 5 shot burst. They don't hang around the cams for long. In the last year I have personally seen trail cam of a big cougar in Perry County, NW of Lobelville, and heard 2 other sighting reports through associates. Another in Perry and one in Humphreys.

Probably. I'm not going to sweat it and just touch them with a paint pen.

Stealership is probably your best bet. They may be able to cut & code a key based on the VIN. Otherwise I think a locksmith will have to key it to the lock(s), which could be quite a bit of work.

Agreed. Seems like a lot of questionable/poor decisions happening in the corrections departments lately.

Installed the rest of the fascia boards and secured the top to the under laying OSB top today. Also drilled the first set of mount holes. Boy, it is exceedingly difficult, if not impossible to drill taper holes in Melamine and not chip it. I tried the tricks I knew, ultimately resigning to the fact that I would just white paint the chips to blend them out. Love these cast tee nuts that mount with 3 screws... I have to work on the 'bridging' of PETG material on my printer. PLA bridges much better. For those not understanding, the top side of the knob cap printed down against the print bed. It built up a few layers making the outline of the helmet and rest of the knob, then bridged across it (across open air, no support). Marginal bridging is why there are a wavy lines that are not fused well. Still a usable knob though. ~Bandit

Captured https://www.foxnews.com/us/tennessee-inmate-curtis-watson-captured-after-5-days-on-run-officials-say

Even if he shaves his beard, wears sleeves and a ball cap, he still can't do much about the nostril asymmetry and ears close pinned to his head. LEO's were searching south of me on Hwy 412 between Parsons and Hohenwald last night.

A little progress has been made on this project. I've been side tracked in the shop doing other things. The melamine top has been cut. Not yet secured... Also, I'm sure you can't miss the Dillon mount has been built. Doweled, glued and screwed. Quite strong. I still need to clear lacquer it. Also still need to finish the rock chucker mount. I have all the pieces cut already. I had some tongue and groove hardwood boards left over from previous owners (no idea where they used them, but not in the house). So I cut the tongue off, leaving the bevel, then stained and lacquer cleared one. Came out better than I need or deserve, so I am proceeding with making the rest of the fascia cap boards. They are not the finest specimen boards, and I could have sanded the first one better, but oh well. Good enough. I might remove the first one and put it on the back side of the bench...I think the second one will be a bit nicer. The one sitting on top just got stained today and is drying before the lacquer clear coats are applied. I also procured the hardware to mount the press mounts to the table top. I 3D printed some hand wheel knobs for the 3/8" bolts... ~Bandit

True, there are options/incompatibility you have to be careful about. Gen 1/2 DPMS, thin/thick tang (low/high rail) and even extra high rail, true AR Armalite vs. DPMS pattern. Majority of the build your own stuff is DPMS Gen 1 LR-308....then I would say Armalite AR-10 (try not to conflate the LR's and AR's...though even sellers will mislabel)...then if you search hard you'll find DPMS Gen2 stuff. Fully understandable that it can be daunting. It was at first for me too. The parts I posted above will all work together.

Might not be your thing to build your own, but I'll just throw this out there. A 308 upper is comparable in cost. The spare $520 would get you a good optic and even a drop in trigger. Of course the lower needs to be finish milled, but you could sell it (unfinished of course, value is about $75 retail) and buy a finished one. My 'cheap' 308 build groups better than my factory DPMS, though the DPMS has a more milspec like FCG while the other has a 3lbs single stage drop in. My build has a pretty cheap bear creek stainless 18". If brand names make you feel comfortable, I understand. Just an option. Discount via save5now code. Shipping free.

You're thinking of their hearts.

Have to back E4 No More here. What we perceive as color is reflected light from the object, visible wavelengths that the object does not absorb. Otherwise the surface would show no texture, no features what so ever. The only true black to my knowledge is a Black Hole, so science got the 'black' part right. https://education.seattlepi.com/not-list-black-white-colors-physics-3426.html I think the finishing/coating problem will become a thing of the past as polymer, carbon fiber and other materials make advances. Metals will be used less and less as these technologies continue to take over. Not saying I enjoy the idea, but that's the direction we are already heading.

Sure thing @TomInMN . I don't do importing or exporting of other file types, so I cannot speak to how well it handles/translates any of these file types, except .STL and .SVG....sometimes .OBJ. @DaveTN There's your answer for exporting .STP, yes it will. I should have just looked. Like I just said above, I never import/export. Interesting note it will import a .STE STEP file, but will not export as such.

Yes, free for hobbyists. It will not export an .STP (EDIT: I was wrong, yes it will), but will import one. Screen grab below of the currently compatible files for import. In addition you can import an .SVG and use it in a design, like the spartan molon labe on my 3D printable AR mag speed loader available on Thingiverse.... https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3551655 I really can't think of any limitations, at least not for the average hobbyist. My biggest gripe is it's partially cloud based, so you are forced every 10 days to let it connect. They tend to update A LOT, so managing data usage is part of using for me. I can export .STL files directly to my 3D printer host for slicing, or can use Autodesks Meshmixer software to do any mesh fixing and custom support making and also slice from it. It will create drawings from selected components. You can create tool paths and finished code for CNC/CAM. It will simulate motions based on joints you create/designate. It will simulate stress loads on parts and help you design a part that survives the intended use. If you are working with sheet metal there is a special sheet metal module that caters to the geometry involved. There's a T-spline module for some (somewhat) free form modelling....not anything like Blender, but still useful. You can model parametric, or turn it off. It's quite versatile. And free for hobbists. I don't use much else ATM.

Created in Autodesk Fusion 360 software. My go to anymore for mock ups like above and modelling 3D printable parts.

Not much to update in that area @Jamie Jackson . I have only spent an hour or so on it since Monday. I almost have all the parts cut out of the Maple ply for the Dillon and Rock Chucker mounts. If I manage to drag my weary bones up to the shop this morning I'll have all parts cut and begin drilling dowel holes. Biggest thing I did was relocate bulk ammos to the room. I need to get into Nashville to get the Melamine top and fascia boards for the bench. I want one continuous top so I need to go to Home Depot (they sell 4x8 sheets) because Lowes doesn't have 8ft long boards wider than 15". So that's a 130 mile round trip in a truck I am waiting to combine with other needs. The reload room project is an extension of a much larger project. Since moving here my shop has been more like a giant storage shed than a functional shop. Things were deposited in the move or have accumulated since and never seemed to find a permanent home. I finally had enough of it and am dealing with it. So, much like chess I have to move pieces around in order to get the stage set for the end game. In order to free up space 'A' to build a bench and shelves, I have to move crap 'R' thru 'Z'. But where to put crap 'R' thru 'Z'? Well, R thru Z would make sense in space C, but then crap D thru Q needs to be moved etc, etc......etc. An arduous process when the temp is 95+ and heat index reaches (a new high) 125.

Welcome aboard

MLEC is beginning to offer fiber optic internet and phone service. Looks like the main town (Waverly, Johnsonville, Lobelville, Centerville etc) areas first. They hope to have service to all in their coverage area by the end of 2022. Building is in phases, obviously, and new service to areas is based on a variety of factors including potential customer interest in the service zone. So more interest in your area may get you service a little sooner. So if you're interested click on the link below and register your interest. Speeds available will be 300Mbps ($50) and 1Gbps ($80). I'm all in for 1Gbps. https://mlec.crowdfiber.com/#Service Areas

A little update on those cukes and the trellis. If you do something like I did, put it on the south side of the bed if you can. Because there was another bed in close proximity on the south side of my cukes I had to go north with it (don't want to shade the other bed if the cukes go that far). The plants, of course, will grow towards the sun. Meaning they will tend to lean south. I have to train them (pull 'em back carefully) to the trellis (extra time out there every few days). Had I been able to go the other way they would simply fall on the trellis when they reach too high (unsupported). Otherwise it's working out well.

Common sense, awareness of surroundings and eye protection is all that comes to mind immediately.

My decision was the Dillon, for exactly the above. Will be here Friday.

Man, 123 degrees "feels like" heat index. Brutal.

I called the provider. They said I was not alone and recommended I shut off the main breaker and wait for them to call me when they fix it. I'm still waiting for that call, but things have stabilized, for now. If the above were the case, a heck of a lot of squirrels committed suicide yesterday. I wonder how many squirrels that video poster has buried.

I am giddy. Working as hard as I can to get my dedicated climate controlled reloading space up a working.... without dying in the friggin heat! Here's a 3D model of my plan. The A frame looking things are press mounts. They will be made of Maple ply (will stain) and patterned from this guys mount: https://rickaverill.com/projects-past-and-present/dillon-rl-550b-mount/ Instead of hard mounting direct to the bench, I am using tee nut inserts (screw mount, not the 3 pokey prong style), like this guy did: https://www.flickr.com/photos/93396776@N06/albums/72157663547333758/with/27602044619/ That way the presses and smaller tools (case trimmer, manual charge thrower etc) can easily be removed leaving the bench free and clear of semi permanent obstructions for cleaning/smithing etc. The bench has an underlay of OSB and will have a white Melamine top with fascia caps boards around the perimeter. They will sit about 1/4" above the working surface to stop rolling things (cases, projectiles etc) from bailing off.

Yeah, already lost a TV, a fridge and a stove since moving. Stove was new and warrantied.