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Handsome Rob

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Posts posted by Handsome Rob

  1. Right now, with the SWFA score & 5, 77gr rounds in the 10rd mag, it comes in at 4lb 7½oz.

    I had a rough day at the range with it, initially, using the Tasco scope. I was having a hell of a time getting it into battery & a worse time extracting spent brass. Turns out my brass is a few thou too long. Function is much better now, but I haven't had chance to get back to the range to see exactly how well she shoots. Honestly, anything under 2 MOA will be more than good enough for the distances I'll ever hunt with it, but I don't see why much better wouldn't be possible. 

     

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  2. 4 minutes ago, Erich said:

    NIce! you dont need the top of that gas key, mill it off flush with the bolt heads get for a free half ounce or so 😉

    You could probably just remove the entire key and replace with square piece of delrin or aluminum and run nylon bolts in place of the steel since no longer doing anything other than keeping the bolt from rotating when you manually cycle.

    Was it had to resist slotting holes in some of the other bits that are solid? 

    I've considered replacing the gas key, I didn't think about delrin though. Good idea! 

    I didn't really want to reduce the lower any further (it's only 4oz as is!) & I was worried about the structural integrity of taking any more of the upper. The butt-plate could stand some holes though. The biggest weight saving now would come from an aluminum BCG. Big difference there, but also quite a bit of cash to go cutting it to bits & drilling new holes in it! 

    • Like 1
  3. 24 minutes ago, res308 said:

    Rob, since this is about a general purpose rifle, I'm surprised you haven't recommended the Savage 110 Hog Hunter. Seems like there was a piture on here a while back with you holding one of those. 

    My son has one now but I haven't tried it out yet. 

    The old model is a damn good, all around rifle, but for a little more cash you can get much better. I've had them & enjoyed them, but they're heavy for what they are & are.....unrefined, shall we say. For an extra two bills, you can get into a blued Tikka & that's like comparing a 1996 Malibu to a Bently, quality wise. 

    I've actually come to dislike most everything about Savage these days. The bottom dollar Ruger American is as good as the better Savage models at the same price point as the Axis. It's smoother, has a better trigger, has more available upgrades, has infinitely better magazines, 60⁰ rather than 90⁰ bolt throw & is just as accurate out of the box. 

  4. 6 hours ago, res308 said:

    Question: I know the Ruger American Gen II is supposed to be smoother. I have always heard of feeding problems with the Gen 1. Are the Gen II rifles reliable?

    As far as I'm aware, yeah. It's pretty much the same action, but the bolt has had the micro ridges polished off (I did the same thing with my gen1, some 800grit wet & dry & a half hour with nothing better to do. Smooth as a baby's butt now! 

    The only feeding problems were with the rotary mags. They just flat out suck. They all crap the bed at some point. Some right out of the box, some a year down the line. The AR magwell version & AICS version feed just as reliably as anything else that eats from this mags. My .223 is closing on 1500 rounds & hasn't had a single hiccup yet. 

    The only known complaint with the gen2 is the stock. It's a terrible design, the geometry is all to cock & it makes the gen1 seem like a super stiff benchrest job (it isn't. It's serviceable, better than an Axis or others in the price range, but I'll be changing mine out the very day Jennifer at Stocky's tells me the VG Carbon is available!)

  5. For the wallet: Ruger American with AICS pattern magwell. It absolutely cannot be beaten for value. The original is cheaper,  the Mk2 is prettier & smoother & has a 3 position safety. Stocky's is also going to be releasing one of their awesome VG carbon stocks that'll fit either, later this year. Both require a couple of upgrades, trigger at minimum, but are still amazing for the cost. 

    Best: Tikka T3x (although it doesn't use AICS mags & at the moment, nobody makes a compatible bottom metal) Light years ahead of 90% of factory guns at ⅓ to ½ the price. Fantastic aftermarket, tedious accuracy, lightweight & just generally a spectacular rifle that's at home in the woods or on the 1k gongs.

    • Like 2
  6. 29 minutes ago, leroy said:

    I like it Rob..!  What are ya goin to use as a buffer to catch the bolt..?

    leroy...

    Not a thing. Without a gas system, the bolt can't move after firing. The locking lugs hold it in battery until the charging handle is moved backwards, rotating the bolt head out of sync with the lugs.

  7. 37 minutes ago, Alleycat72 said:

    Are you going to put a return spring in it. You'll be able to pull it back and just let go.

    No way of doing it without a full length BCG & that's a lot of weight to add.

    I did think about an aluminum BCG but they're a little spendy. I'd still like one to play with at some point, but dollars spent vs weight saved it's not a priority. 

  8. 53 minutes ago, RED333 said:

    Nice looking, are you going to hold the rifle or vice mount fire it for the first few rounds? You did take a lot of meat off the upper.

    It's still about twice as thick as a regular forged upper. But it is a Bear Creek..... Vice mount. 

    • Like 1
  9. The goal was to build the lightest weight rifle I possibly could on a realistic budget (as cheap as I possibly could) 

    I decided to go with a non gassed gun, making it a simple, straight pull bolt action. 

    I just got finished making the carbon buffer tube/stock tonight & I believed she's done. 

    Faxon pencil weight barrel, gas port blanked off. Wiland USA 10" carbon hand guard. TN Arms carbon lower. BCA side charge upper converted to left hand charge & milled extensively to reduce weight. NFA poly LPK, with 3lb Timney trigger ($68 on sale at Dvor) & bolt hold open omitted. Hogue grip, only $20 & just over 1oz! Home made carbon buffer tube with cheap, Amazon clamp on butt plate. No-Name ambi side charge bolt, cut off behind the firing pin (no need for the back half, since there's no buffer or spring) Charging handle from a Ruger PC Carbine, drilled & modified to fit. 

    It ended up right at 3lb 11oz, bare weight. 4lb 8oz with the temporary old Tasco 4x. I have an ultralight SWFA 2.5-10x32 ordered that'll bring it down even further, to 4lb 4.5oz but I can't wait until then to try it out at the range! 

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    • Like 4
    • Love 1
  10. I only really have 1 tip & it's as much shooting related as it is reloading.

    Actually, no. I have 2, but they're basically all rolled up together. 

     

    This one will annoy & possibly anger some people, but I've never had it fail yet. When you look in any load data book, it'll show a 'min' & 'max' charge. Load your cases from min to max at 10% intervals. Only 1 of each. You're looking for pressure signs, not accuracy now. 

    Now, shoot them 1 at a time, at any range. Hell, shoot them into the ground. But starting with the hottest. You shouldn't, but if you see any pressure signs with the hottest, grab one from the middle & then work up until you see pressure. Pick the load below pressure signs & load 30 of them. Also, learn to read real pressure signs. Extractors marks, ejector marks & bolt swipe at minimum. Primer flattening may, or may not be indicative of pressure. Don't rely on just that. 

    Use that load to zero your scope & then shoot ALL the rest as a group. Everyone bases their accuracy from 3 or 5 round groups & that's not enough. I guarantee, pretty much every book load, from min to max, will shoot into roughly the same group size, given enough data points. 10 shots minimum, 30 is better. That 4th round 'flyer' is almost guaranteed to be part of the natural accuracy cone. You're just not shooting enough to notice. 

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    Here's a perfect example of why 3 & round groups don't tell the whole truth. If I'd stopped at 3, It'd be a sub .250 rifle ("all day, if i do my part" 🙄

    The group of 5 on the right would get me bragging that is a sub-MOA gun (ADIIDMP)

    In actual fact, when you combine the 2 & the 2 that most would call flyers (they weren't) is a 1½moa gun. And honestly, as hunting rifle go, that's pretty frikkin' stellar!

     

    There. That rattled a few feathers, didn't it?!

     

    • Like 3
  11. I'm looking for a not-fancy, low power, small objective scope. I'm thinking something along the lines of a Redfield Revolution or Burris Fullfield kinda thing.

    A step up from Bushnell & Tasco, without going to Nightforce. 😁

    Absolutely no Vortex please. 

  12. I'm looking to build a non-gassed, uberlight AR on a budget. For no other reason than gits & shiggles.

    I'm looking for a polymer lower & side charging bolt, or someone who can modify one (right hand CH preferred)

    I'm not looking for quality, well used off-brand is perfectly fine 😃

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