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rab

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Posts posted by rab

  1. Anyone have any reports on a gunsmith in Piney Flats, I can't find much about them as far as Barrel cutting and rethreading. Or if anyone knows of any shops in the Bristol area that they might suggest it would be very helpful.

    Thanks

  2. Dave Thanks , Got an e-mail back from Mike said he would be happy to help. Price is very good and is about two week out on small jobs like threading. He is located about 120 miles away.Hope I can make the trip and drop it off.

    • Like 2
  3. 6 hours ago, billmeek said:

    Rather than mess with a good barrel and possibly have someone screw it up, if your receiver is something other than Kidd or is a Kidd Classic receiver (not a supergrade), I'd just buy a new threaded barrel from FJF Feddersen.  Fred and his people build excellent 10/22 barrels at a relatively low cost.  He also stands behind his barrels with a 30-day money back guarantee (less the cost of shipping):

    https://fjfeddersen.com/warranty-return-policy/

    The company is based right here in TN and all the barrels are made locally. 

    I currently own 4 Feddersen barrels and the best 2 of the bunch are as good as or better than the Proof Research 10/22 barrel I bought at well over double the cost.

    If however you do have a supergrade, I'd just spend the money to get another supergrade barrel.  One of the great things about the Kidd supergrade system is how quick and easy it is to swap out the barrels.

    Thanks Bill, I have the Kidd Match grade 920 and it is a great shooter. That is why I would like to get it threaded ,for I know what it can do. The same barrel threaded form Kidd is only $250 and would most likely shoot as good. Then I would have an extra barrel that I would not need for, I am going all suppressed from here out.

  4. Westwindmike, Thanks for the infor. it is sure helpping to get a feel for what I need for there just is not any 6.5 creedmoor brass to be had at this time. I have 60 Hornady cases that I got from factory ammo, other say they only last for a few firing and other report that 6.5 brass from 308 last for quite a few, up to 15. I will start the process soon, just need a few tools and want to get the correct one on the frist buy.

    Again thanks for any information to the quest.

  5. the dies are just the standard loading dies.  The tools I use on a different caliber are:

    1 plumbers copper tube cutter

    1 case trimmer

    1 drill

    set of reloading dies.

     

    So you make the case and cut it a hair long with the tube cutter.   Then you run it through the reloading die and reshape it.   This takes a great deal of force, so your press needs to be solidly mounted and your case well lubed.   Then you ream out the neck to thin it down (its case wall, not neck, on mine) with the drill.   Finally trim the brass down to size.  If you cut it too long, you may have to run it through the die and trim process a second time until you get a feel for where to cut.  You probably will need to deburr it at the end. 

     

    Jonnin, Thanks for your input. I will need to get a neck turning tool, I have every thing else. Not sure at this time which to get , have been reading about all the ones offered. What are the comments on neck turning tools and which to purchase?

  6. I have been hand loading for just over two years for my 223 bolt gun and feel some what comfortable at it. Now I gotten a 6.5 CM. And finding brass just a little pricy. I am thinking about resizing some 308 down to 6.5 CM. What dies will I need to get and what is the process? Thanks for all comments and help in advance for I like to buy ONCE, I know that a joke.

    Thanks

  7. Picked one up in .308 today!!  ... maybe in honor of the SOTU Address.  ??

     

    Anway, it is a .308 bolt in a 20" barrel, ... a little heavier than what I might put together, but I couldn't touch it for the price.   I had shyed away from the idea after holding a 6.5 creedmore (26" barrel)... it was heaaavy.   This is the first one in .308 I had laid hands on, and it felt perfect.   

     

    Now to decide which brake/supressor host to put on it... hmmmm....

     

     

    Peace , Did they have a 6.5 in stock as you said it was heavy?

  8. Well guys I been reading  alot on the Ruger Precision Rifle and like buying a new car if you keep checking them out soon you got the fever. That where I am at, only thing is now I can't find one. I am looking for a 6.5 CM. Does anyone know where I might look ? Would like to do a face 2 face buy if I could.

    Thanks for all help.

  9. An AR has two limiting factors and both are EASILY resolved.

    First, and foremost, is ammunition. Mil spec ammunition is not built with extreme accuracy as a goal. The standard, if I remember correctly, is 3MOA accuracy. And I have found most ARs do that, or a little better, shooting milspec ammunition. But if you reload you can increase accuracy substantially. I had an AR that would shoot Wolf or Tula into a 3-4 MOA grouping. Now with mil spec M855 or M193 the same gun would group ~2 MOA. But once I worked up an accurate hand load the group's shrunk to under 1 MOA with most groups being between 1/2-3/4 MOA. So what he is asking for is entirely possible just not with most factory loaded ammunition. If it were me I would start out with a 68-69 grain bullet over 24.5-24.7 grains of Varget. That is a known accuracy load that works with a lot of different guns like FGMM.

    The next biggest obstacle to squeezing the most accuracy out of an AR is the trigger and that is just a matter of personal preference. I prefer a single stage with no take up but others prefer a two stage will others don't mind the milspec triggers. But make no mistake a bad trigger will adversely affect accuracy regardless of the platform.

    Here are a few more "honorable mentions" for improving accuracy.

    When shooting do not shoot off of a bipod. Shoot off of something soft like a backpack, a pillow or just padded blocks. A bipod affects the harmonics of the entire gun and ruin accuracy.

    Next is brass prep. The single biggest improvement I got from prepping brass was when I deburring and uniform img the flas holes. That single thing knocked a 1/4" off the 100 yard group sizes. Although I never did it I hear neck turning can help but I am not sure the improvement is worth it with an AR.

    I also do not crimp the loaded round. I reduce the expander ball by .002" and that provides plenty of neck tension without deforming the bullet.

    And when it comes to powder chargesske sure your dispenser/hopper has a powder baffle to keep the weight of the powder consistent when being measured. This also had a HUGE impact on consistency and a consistent gun is an accurate gun.

    Dolomite

      Thanks for the advice. I do load all of my ammo and make every effort to keep all my brass as consistent an uniform as I can. I have just been reloading for three years and want to learn all that I can. How did you reduce the expander ball? Also  I use a single stage press(RCBS) and weight each load on a 505 scales. I will also try a front bag.

    Again Thanks

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