JimFromTN

I would think a 2 inch group at 100yds would be an excellent grouping. I would expect a 3 to 4 inch group average with steel cased ammo.

I have a rem 700 sps in 270. It is far more accurate that I am with cheap factory rounds back when they were cheap. I have been hunting with 150gr core-lokts for years. If you plan on hunting much out past 250yds, use premium ammo and practice.

I am a fan of AGM. I have the TC35-384 clip on. I am very happy with it. ATN has gotten a bad reputation over the years. I don't care for the built in battery. If your battery goes bad, you are without until you get it back from being repaired. AGM uses cr123's, both rechargeable and non-rechargeable. Just something to consider.

I have one. Aftermarket magazines work but you may have to dremel the catch on the magazines so they will click into the rifle. Russian ammo can be sticky. Chinese works much better in mine. I bought some brass ammo to see if it made a difference. I have not tried it yet.

I like Pflueger supreme spinning reels and Lews Speed Spool and Tournament casting reels. I use shimano cumara casting rods and daiwa spinning rods for the most part. With rods, you really need to pick it up and feel it. Not something I would buy online unless I was familiar with them and knew what I was buying. I have bought allot of discontinued rods and reels on ebay for killer prices.

I 2nd solid core doors for workbenches. You can cut them down to whatever size you need. You don't have to worry about the flex and everything falling over when you are resizing. I have built several work benches out of them. I am in the process of designing something in my head a little prettier for in the office. I have a solid core door that I could use but I think it would not look as nice. I have been contemplating glueing 2x4's together side by side for the top. I would be roughly 3.5 inches thick minus whatever I plane off of it. I was thinking 30 inches deep by 60 inches long. I am thinking stain it and put some polyurethane on it. I was thinking untreated 4x4's for the legs which I would stain also, possibly a darker color than the top. After that I plan on building cabinets with doors to hide everything. Hopefully it all won't look like a train wreck.

I have been hunting strictly with O/U's for small game and waterfowl for 25 years. I wouldn't use anything else. If you don't hit them with the first 2 shots, you are not going to hit them with the 3rd. Its probably paid for itself with the money I saved on not taking wasted 3rd shots with duck hunting alone.

There is an IGA store not far from me that sells it. I decided to buy a pound. I think it was $5 to $6 a pound. They were strips. They were relatively tasteless. Even more so than a tilapia so its real easy to over season. If I caught some, I would consider trying to fillet it and eat it. If nothing else, bury it in your garden for fertilizer.

A friend of mine's son used to work for metro and had the same thing happen to him a few years ago. He said the blue lights are drunk magnets. Apparently, its not uncommon.

One thing to remember when you buy a thermal is that with each increase in magnification you cut the resolution in half so I doubt most people ever crank up the magnification much past the first increase in magnification on a 320 resolution. I have a bering optics hogster 25mm with 384 resolution. I keep it on the lowest power. Just jumping one level of magnification, the animals just turn into blobs. I am looking into the AGM rattler TC35-384 clip on. Just waiting for more reviews.

Salt, mineral blocks, and feeders are no longer legal in Henry county. Apparently, it is transmitted by the deer feeding too close together or something like that. TWRA does not want you submitting the lymph nodes yourself. They don't trust you to do it yourself. They want you to take the head cut off right below the white spot under their chin to a drop off freezer, taxidermist, or processor and have them send it in. Not a problem if its a doe but I do euro mounts on most if not all the bucks I kill. There is a processor who will charge you $5 if you want the head back. They can't prove its transmittable to humans but they have proven it can be transmitted to monkeys. There was an unintentional study in New York back in 2005 when someone fed a bunch of people deer meat and then found out later that it had cwd. The watched the people who were willing to be in the study for 6 years and they never showed symptoms. It sounds like mad cow disease which can take up to 10 years to kill a human. CWD kills a deer in 2 years which means the does that was found to have it probably got it close to 2 years ago which means its here so get your deer checked,

I am really wanting to do a fall planting of a rye mixture. I was planning on getting a soil sample for my big plot for the fall planting. I am trying to get 2 small areas done in the next few days before it gets too hot and won't have time for a soil test.

I have a list of questions. I don't have a tractor and if I did, I don't think I could get it into the area that I am trying to put a food plot in. I have a 2007 4010 kawasaki mule which unfortunately has a 1.25 trailer hitch and not a 2 inch. The area that I am clearing is a clearcut with about 5 years of growth. Lots of briars, blackberries, wild rose, privot, black locust, and lots of scars from clearing it. 1. I was planning on going some of the no plow stuff from whitetail institute because I am not sure what to plant otherwise and I figured I might not be able to really break up the soil very well. Any better options? 2. What is a good implement that I can use with my mule to break up the soil? Are the aggressive chain harrows any good for breaking up the soil? The ones with the spikes, not just the chain link fence style like they use on baseball fields. 3. Lime and fertilizer. The instruction on the throw and grow recommends that if you aren't getting your soil tested then use a ton of lime per acre and 400lbs of fertilizer per acre. I am looking at probably about an acre or so this year. Thats allot of lime and fertilizer for an acre. What will it cost? I guess I need to seriously invest in a good broadcast spreader. Any recommendations? 4. If I do annuals like rye, does that mean I have to go through this all over again next years or will it reseed itself? I know thats a probably a really ignorant question but I have never done this before. Trying to get a couple small patches going now before it gets too late. The main area will be a fall planting. Also thinking about planting persimmon trees around the edges

MuzzleLoader Season 11/13 Gun Season 11/24

This ^^. You will get more money. Most people who are interested in the rifle will put their own scope on it so they won't be willing to give you the value of the rifle and the scope together. You have to throw in the scope for free because they are going to put it up on a shelf and put a swaro, kahles, or nightforce on it. I am not sure where you got the $2500 from but the rifle is listing brand new on the weatherby website for $1999 and are listed on gunbroker for as low as $1750. Maybe I am looking at the wrong model. I would try and get $1500 for the rifle. List it either on gunbroker or perhaps another hunting website that people who hunt out west use like the long range hunting website. List the scope on here or some other shooting/hunting forum for $350 maybe $400 or even better list on ebay with a starting bid of $350 and see how high it goes.