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Automotive pulley holder wrench


tercel89

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Do any of you guys know where to locally get an automotive pulley holder wrench instead of having to order one from the internet ? I can make one from scratch but it's better to buy one made for the job. I need one to hold a Toyota crankshaft pulley while I reinstall the crankshaft bolt and that bolt has to be torqued down to over 217 pounds :dropjaw: . Most Autozones and such stores don't sell one that I can use. I thought you guys may have an idea where to find one.  Any help is appreciated.

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5 minutes ago, jwinter said:

I think Advance Auto Parts has a loan a tool program. Did you ask them about it?

 AHHHHH I forgot about the loan-a-tool thing. I'll go there tomarrow when I order more parts.  Keep the ideas coming folks :up: . I was supposed to be changing 3 squeaky belts and when I got the rear belt off I noticed that the harmonic balancer was separating from the pulley. This turned into a lot more than a 30 minute belt changing job LOL. Getting the crankshaft bolt off was simple as I took a long breaker bar and 19mm socket over the crankshaft bolt. I then laid the bar onto my trucks frame. I then "bumped" the starter and the rotation of the engine automatically loosened the crankshaft bolt. The torque that these starters have is AMAZING .  It unscrewed that bolt like it was butter.  I just now gotta get a tool or make one to hold that pulley/harmonic balancer still while I exert the same foot pounds to bolt it back up.

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A socket on one of the torque converter bolts worked for me and my land cruiser. There should be an inspection cover for access and wedge it against the bell housing. Also good to have an extra hand holding the socket.

 

 

Edited by 10Kilr
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12 hours ago, 2.ooohhh said:

I typically put a pin into the flywheel to stop it's rotation, or pull a spark plug and feed soft nylon rope into the cylinder to stop the crank from turning. ;)

It's funny you mention that. I have to do some work on my Mini and that was a solution that they said to use.

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2 minutes ago, gjohnsoniv said:

It's funny you mention that. I have to do some work on my Mini and that was a solution that they said to use.

The Pin is factory specified by BMW/Mini, the rope trick was taught to me by an old Porsche tech but is make/model agnostic. Some models the factory specialized tools are so bloody expensive you just have to step back and ask if you really need them.

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7 minutes ago, 2.ooohhh said:

The Pin is factory specified by BMW/Mini, the rope trick was taught to me by an old Porsche tech but is make/model agnostic. Some models the factory specialized tools are so bloody expensive you just have to step back and ask if you really need them.

That's the truth. I was looking at some factory tools for mine and just said "nooopppeee."

Though I do have to buy a specialty spark plug socket which frustrates me. 

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12 hours ago, 2.ooohhh said:

I typically put a pin into the flywheel to stop it's rotation, or pull a spark plug and feed soft nylon rope into the cylinder to stop the crank from turning. ;)

 I have seen this but I am paranoid that the compression of the rope , even with soft rope may warp some valves when compressed.

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13 hours ago, 2.ooohhh said:

I typically put a pin into the flywheel to stop it's rotation, or pull a spark plug and feed soft nylon rope into the cylinder to stop the crank from turning. ;)

I did this to other engines with automatics but they only required a small about of torque to the crankshaft bolt. This engine requires around 217 lb of torque. I am scared the teeth mab be warped or break if I stuck a pin or screw-driver in the teeth.

Edited by tercel89
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6 minutes ago, tercel89 said:

I did this to other engines with automatics but they only required a small about of torque to the crankshaft bolt. This engine requires around 217 lb of torque. I am scared the teeth mab be warped or break if I stuck a pin or screw-driver in the teeth.

OK so grab 50' of 1/4" nylon braid rope, the cheap stuff from your local wal-mart or hardware store. I typically tie a knot in it at one end large enough that it won't fit through the spark plug hole and feed the long end into a cylinder. As the crank rotates into the compression stroke the valves will close and the rope will occupy the space normally occupied by the intake air, though it won't compress nearly as much. This will safely stop the crank from rotating while you torque on the pulley nut.

 

 

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AutoZone gave me a "deer in the headlights" look when I asked for a cam lock/removal tool. I ended up buying one.  Best $150 I've spent. That's the problem these days is that manufacturers have a specific tool. The loan tools that AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc offer are mostl good for older cars. About the only thing I've loaned from them is the strut compressor tool. 

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5 hours ago, NextExit said:

AutoZone gave me a "deer in the headlights" look when I asked for a cam lock/removal tool. I ended up buying one.  Best $150 I've spent. That's the problem these days is that manufacturers have a specific tool. The loan tools that AutoZone, O'Reilly's, etc offer are mostl good for older cars. About the only thing I've loaned from them is the strut compressor tool. 

I have seen this but I am paranoid that the compression of the rope , even with soft rope may warp some valves when compressed. Remember that I am torqueing the crank bolt to 217lbs . That is a lot !

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I have seen this but I am paranoid that the compression of the rope , even with soft rope may warp some valves when compressed. Remember that I am torqueing the crank bolt to 217lbs . That is a lot !

217lbs is not too much most of the cars I work on are nearly double that. Keep in mind that an internal combustion engine is designed to contain controlled explosions, and turn them into forward propulsion. On the compression stroke the valves are closed, ready to completely contain that explosion.

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Wants some advice from an ASE Certified Master Tech?  Zip it down with an air gun and call it good.  It is not a critical torque setting, and the bolt will be fine.  The gun will put about 175-200 ft-lbs on it, depending upon the model.  It's better to be too lose than too tight on a cast crank anyway.

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11 minutes ago, tercel89 said:

 LOL yep ! I used 1/4 inch thick steel and hard steel rated bolts.

Congrats on taking a tough issue and making a simple solution. I bet most of us have enough stuff lying around to make one like that, just haven't thought of it..... or am I the only junk hound here.

Edited by Ronald_55
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10 hours ago, Ronald_55 said:

Congrats on taking a tough issue and making a simple solution. I bet most of us have enough stuff lying around to make one like that, just haven't thought of it..... or am I the only junk hound here.

No...you most definitely are not. My wife says I'm a packrat to borderline hoarder.

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1 hour ago, hipower said:

No...you most definitely are not. My wife says I'm a packrat to borderline hoarder.

Funny how wives are that way. Mine has enough craft supplies to fill a Hobby Lobby, but if I bring home some scrap lumber from work to use later, I am hoarding. When she needs something fixed that my "junk" pile has a piece for she never seems to mind then. Plus I can't remember the last time I needed to buy bolts, screws, or nails. 

Good thing she never looks at my ammo stock. lol

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