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Grand Torino

ad closed The $75 Sawmill Blades are back....

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All are $75 each and includes combo kydex/leather sheath shown and have thumb jimping on the spine.

Buy 2 for $140...buy 3 for $215.

#1 SOLD!!

Walnut handles with Purpleheart and G10 accents and white liners. Mosaic pins and brass lanyard tube.

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#2 SOLD!!!

Roasted curly maple handles with maple, tru-stone and black G10 accents and liners. Mosaic pins and brass lanyard tube.

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#3 Sold!!

Bog Oak and red oak handles with red heart, black and white G10 accents and white liners. Mosaic pins and brass lanyard tube.

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#4

DymaLux Indigo Knife Scales ( resin treated layers for toughness and durability.) Grey, black and white G10 accents with grey liners.  Mosaic pins and brass lanyard tube.

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#5 Sold!!!

Arizona Sonoran Dessert Mesquite handles with Padauk, OD green and white accents with OD green liners. Mosaic pins and brass lanyard tube.

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Edited by Grand Torino
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2 hours ago, jpx2rk said:

Since this is my first GT knife, can someone point me in the right direction for care of the knife, especially the sharpening aspect.  Don't want to mess it up by any means.

 

2 hours ago, dralarms said:

You know, that’s a good question. 

The beauty of a carbon steel knife is you can sharpen it with most anything you are comfortable with. While some sharpening systems take the guess work out of sharpening like the Apex, Hapstone and TSPROF you pay a lot of money for it. If you don't have many knifes to sharpen that's an expensive proposition.

You can use water stones diamond stones, a Lansky, Spyderco Triangle or a host of others and get a screaming sharp edge that lasts quite well. The bottom line is use whatever your comfortable/experienced with.

If you aren't afraid to use what I call the most dangerous tool in the shop many people use a bench grinder/buffer with paper sharpening wheels like these to obtain a scary sharp edge. I must say right here do not use these paper wheels unless you are fully knowledgeable with the dangers of bench grinders and are 100% confident in your abilities. Your risking serious injury/death if you are not experienced with that tool.

Bottom line is these knifes I make are not hard to sharpen and retain a decent edge. The steels I use and many like them have been around for maybe 150 years and have been sharpened with about everything you can think of.

https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Paper-Sharpening-Wheel-Kit-for-8-Grinders--P1144.aspx?gclid=Cj0KCQjw2K3rBRDiARIsAOFSW_7cLND_Az55juCdA3YojcycPHUGHhy5a8tmPLyoDuY9xzuWbxhrDqcaAiZwEALw_wcB

 

Care for the knife.....

Never leave your knife in the sheath when storing it long term. It can trap moisture/condensation and start the corrosion process. When using the knife out in the field try to dry it off after use and returning home wipe it down and put a coat of oil on it. You can use 3 in 1, Balistol, WD-40 or even mineral oil of cooking oil if your rather use something more food friendly.

Kydex sheaths can be dried off and wiped off with WD-40 to bring them back to life. Never use stuff like Acetone, mineral spirits or other harsh chemicals of you will end up with an ugly, melted mess.

Leather sheaths should receive a rub with leather conditioner something along these lines whenever they start drying out. Frequency depends on use.

https://www.tandyleather.com/en/product/aussie-leather-conditioner-15-oz

Yes...knives/sheaths need a bit of TLC one in a while but so do guns, tools, cars or anything else you own. If you leave it outside or throw it under a damp rag in your garage it will be no better off than a Glock you treated the same way.

Edited by Grand Torino
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