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Which scope?


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A good Nikon 3x9x40 Rimfire or the 2x7x32 Nikon Rimfire-I have a couple of different 22's that have everything from a Weaver 4x16x44 Kaspa with adjustable objective to Nikon's all with good results.

Another scope I really like is a Vortex Crossfire II 3x12x44 also with an adjustable objective.

One thing  to think of when scoping 22lr rifles is either an adjustable objective or a scope with a parallax adjusted to 50 yards-most high power scopes are adjusted for 100 yards.

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Leupold Nikon Vortex. I own them all and that’s the order I could choose them. But lets face it; it’s a .22. You won’t see a dimes worth of difference in any of the top picks because a .22 doesn’t have the range. I have a Remington 597 that has a $50 RedHead (Bass Pro Brand) that is boring accurate.

The mount is as important as the scope. “Weaver” could be anything. They make a Picatinny mount and that’s what I would want; with quick release rings. The mount must be solid, properly installed, the scope must be leveled and everything properly torqued.

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I have a pair of .22LR's that I shoot for various activities.

A 16" that I use at 50 yards and out.
That one has a Burris XTRII 2.5-10x42.
Nice enough scope.
Good glass. Zero stop. And tracks great.
But the parallax goes no lower than 50 yards.
Playing dot shooting games at 25 yards, it's less than ideal. (To be exact it sucks.)
Spinners at 100 yards, and soda cans out to 175 yards, it shines.

The other is a shorter barrel in a pistol configuration.
It has a Barska Level 1.5-6x44 on it. (Go ahead and laugh now)
It won't track worth a crap so forget dialing yardage.
But once zeroed, it stays where you put it.
The parallax will dial down to 10 yards.
Those 25 yard dot games ... it'll run circles around the other setup.
It'll remain accurate at longer yardages, but you gotta use hold overs w/o dialing.

So as mentioned above, it depends a lot on what you wanna do with it.
Tools for the job.

PS My wife's .22LR has a Nikon 2-7 Rimfire on it. It works fine. But once again, at 25, that Barksa will run circles around it in clarity and lighting.
 

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You can easily put a picatinny rail on a 10/22.  You can buy a cheap one on Amazon, but I'll never do that again as the screws provided stripped when using a Lyman digital torque wrench to tighten them.  I now only use EGW rails (or Kidd rails for Kidd receivers) for my 10/22s if they don't have a built in rail. 

As the others have said, it depends on how you want to use the rifle and what you're willing to spend for a scope.  Last week I bought two more Athlon Midas TAC 6-24×50 APRS3 FFP MIL (Xmas tree reticle) scopes for a couple of 10/22 rifles along with Burris XTR Signature rings so I can bottom out the scope to shoot up to 500 yards.  First focal plane scopes insure that you point of impact doesn't change when you change magnification on the scope.  However the reticle gets smaller the lower the power on a FFP scope where the reticle on a second focal plane scope stay the same at any power.  If you are interested in target shooting or competing (i.e. NRL22), then you definitely want a FFP scope.  For plinking or hunting, a SFP scope would be fine.  The two scopes with optional sunshades were over $600 each and the MSRP is $803.99 for the scope alone.  Some people may think it's crazy to spend that much for a rimfire scope, but I've seen $3000+ scopes sitting on 22LR rifles.  It all depends on your usage and expectations. 

https://athlonoptics.com/product/midas-tac-6-24x50-aprs3-ffp-mil-scope/

 

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