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Ken Wall

Bore and tap a shotgun barrel for a Turkey choke.

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I am looking for a gunsmith that can bore and thread a 12 gauge shotgun barrel for a Turkey choke. Does anyone know of a good gunsmith in Clarksville or Dickson Tennessee area that can do this ?

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What kind of shotgun?  Is simply buying a new barrel threaded for chokes a possibility?

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I've been wanting to do the self same thing & I haven't found anyone in middle TN that will do it for a reasonable cost.

I've been in touch with these guys....http://www.colonialchokeandtool.com/sitemap.php?view=pages & they're prices and turnaround time are pretty tough to beat. I found one other place in California that's got a way faster turnaround (mail it Monday, guaranteed return delivery by Friday) but they're a little more spendy.

Colonial have excellent reviews & from everything I can find, a great reputation.

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I have a Revalation 12 gauge single shot shotgun with a 38 inch full choke barrel. I have had this gun for over 40 years. From the research I have done it was originally ordered out of the Sears and Roebuck catalog and  the way it's made it looks alot like a Stevens, the gun is in perfect condition and shot very few times. I was told there was a place in North Carolina that specializes in putting the right choke in your gun. You ship the gun to them and they will put the best choke out of their chokes in your gun. I also heard of a place in Hopkinsville KY that will do the same thing. 

Edited by Ken Wall

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38" barrel?  OK, you need to know some thing right off the bat. If you put a Extra full "Turkey" choke on that long tom, it may very well not pattern any better or much better than what you all ready have. If you want to make it more handy in the woods by shortening it, obviously a good choke is important. The reason those old long barrels were so good in putting down long range patterns were the shot in the barrel has a longer time to be affected by barrel friction. Generally, the shot starts to hit max velocity at about 16-18" of bore. At that point bore friction starts to slow the shot closest to the bore or shot cup while the shot in the center of the cup continues to fly forward without the outer slowing shot pinching them back. By the time the first bee bees start leaving the bore, a nice "shot string" of bee bees has all ready formed, minimizing the choke's bad effect of flattening the bee bees as they no longer have to push threw the choke restriction like a fist all at more or less the same time.  Your clay shooters know all about shot strings and those long barrels are awkward but do a nice job of stringing the shot into good long range patterns without the super tight extra full choke diameters. Those Turkey chokes only work good with buffered shot.  With that out of the way, you need a absolute minimum of .855" OD for Win Choke II that is the same as Browning invector and Mossberg. Those are lead shot only threads.  Some older guns like yours were actually tighter choked than the standard of .699" for a full choke ID.

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Go over on Shotgun World, look under gunsmithing and look for the Mike Orlen.  He is highly recommended for choke work and has a quick turnaround time.  For choke work you need someone with a lot of experience doing it.

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Yes, contact Mike Orlen.

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pricing is obviously 2012 and may be outdated, but the contact info should still work

 

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