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First foray into reloading...field testing...


Guest 70below

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Guest 70below

I made it to the range this past weekend after reloading my first batch of target ammo to try in my rifle. I have a Savage model 112 Varmint in 30-06 that I bought used off of Gunbroker.com about a month ago. It has a stainless fluted heavy barrel with a fully bedded action. It came with some leupold rings and bases that I threw a Nikon Prostaff 3-9x40 duplex I had around into for the time being. It has quite a bit I'd like to do to it including a hogue overmolded stock with aluminum bedding, blackening the barrel and other stainless parts, and putting a nice piece of glass for long range work. I'd like to eventually shoot around 1000yds with it. I took it to the range a couple weeks ago and shot an assortment of 150 and 180gr factory and milsurp loads through it, and left feeling somewhat disappointed in the rifle. I couldn't be completely dissatisfied though as I was shooting from a less than stable walmart bipod, with inadequate sand bagging, on a very gusty day, and frankly I didn't feel like I was shooting well that day.

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savage_reloads.jpg

This past weekend I made it back out with a few differences. The weather was alot better. I had a bit better sandbagging, but still supported by a slightly wobbly bipod, trigger pull still not adjusted down (~5-6lbs). The main difference was the addition of some handloads that I had put together the following week. I built some with HXP brass (greek milsurp), and some with remington brass. They all featured 180gr Nosler Balistic Tip projos, with IMR 4895 and winchester primers. I used a Lee Aniversary kit, deluxe die set, and fully sized the cases. Charges varied from 41gr to 44.5gr. I was a bit confused as my Lee Reloading Manual had much lower recommended powder charges that either Nosler or IMR for the 4895 powder I was using. These were all low charges according to the latter two, but mid to high for the Lee Manual.

I shot 4 groups of 5, with each set of 5 representing an increase in charge. Scope was sighted in for 150gr milsurp Greek. You can see a shot marked "foul" which was the first shot I put down range on a clean barrel. I had alot of clover leafing, and I'm pretty confident most of the fliers were my fault still due to the movement in the bipod, heavy trigger, and just some poor shots. I shot groups 1 and 3 on one target and 2 and 4 on the other. All in all, I'd say its getting better. Thats a canadian quarter for reference. I think with some improved shooting on my part and more practice on the reloading front, I'll have some ragged holes. One thing that concerned me though was some flattening to the primers. One of the fellows at the range thought with the low loads I was using that possibly the primers weren't expanding in the pocket and were instead sliding back into the bolt. He didn't think it was caused by excessive pressures. Any of you think similarly? Thanks!

target_grp_1_3.jpg

target_grp_2_4.jpg

reload_casings.jpg

Red was the lowest charge (41.5) blue was 43.0, black was 44.0, and yellow was 44.5gr

Edited by 70below
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I run my Rem 700 in 30-06 out to 1000 yards. I use a 200 gr HPBT Sierra Match King with 53.3 gr of H4350 and Lake City brass. I was using Remington primers but I am going to switch to CCI. Talking with some other reloaders the CCI's perform better. I am in the process of working up a load for the 175gr SMK's as well.

Edited by herr.baer
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Awesome! Those look like great groups for your first loads in a gun that hasn't been tweaked the way you like! Congrats!

I don't load for rifles, so I'm going to refrain from comment on the primers. Hopefully someone with more experience here will chime in soon.

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Guest 70below
I run my Rem 700 in 30-06 out to 1000 yards. I use a 200 gr HPBT Sierra Match King with 53.3 gr of H4350 and Lake City brass. I was using Remington primers but I am going to switch to CCI. Talking with some other reloaders the CCI's perform better. I am in the process of working up a load for the 175gr SMK's as well.

What set back from the rifling do you load to? I seated a couple bullets against the rifling and they came out 3.38 so I backed off to 3.35. I've heard .02 to .03 is common for match loads.

I have been meaning to order some SMK 190's or 200's. I just picked up the ballistic tips because I was able to find 'em on a shelf locally, and I figured I could make some hunting loads out of 'em if I had any left. Have you tried the Prvi Partisan 190gr hpbt match bullets. I've heard alot of people say they had good success with them. I thought about loading a batch of the Prvi and some SMK's to compare. I've heard great things about 4350 in '06, thats my next powder to try.

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Guest Astra900

THe primers in the pic seem to have a decent radius on the edge still. I wouldn't worry too much. Double check you charge weight just in case.

What you don't want to see is a completely flat primer with NO radius. That's a nice rifle, I personally wouldn't be overly concerned, just check, check and check again!

Nice groups, you're on your way to being an obsessed handloader. Welcome to the club:D

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Guest FroggyOne2

First, remember that loading manuals are "lawyer driven", second IMR 4895 is too fast a powder for 180gr bullets and larger.. If your going to use IMR powder, I would look at IMR4350.

Another thing to be aware of is that lite loads can be dangerous.. The can detonate and buldge or rupture the barrel, I had this happen in a 300WSM, even though the load was in the book and deemed safe.. It was detonating and buldged the chamber, crushing the acton threads 10 thou of an inch.

As for determining excessive pressure, take a dial caliper or a mic with you, measure the load before it is shot.. It is best to write down the initial diameter of the case at the web when the brass is new.. then measure again at the range when testing loads. When you have a growth of .003 thou at the web.. son your too hot! You can not always tell pressure by the primer.. I have had rounded primers and still hot.. But usually they are very flat. Other signs of pressure are heavy bolt lift, or a black ring around the primer, pearcing a primer, check the bottom of the case.. is there a half moon there.. that means that the brass is starting to flow into the ejector.. not good..

Only time I have ever had a problem is with that 300WSM and once with a 7mm-08, (i set the bolt face back 10 thou of an inch)

Also, the best primers out there for strength is CCI and Wolf (Magnums)

BTW, Wolf magnum primers are really not magnum primers, meaning that they have a harder cup, the primer charge is the same as the regular Wolf primers.. They also fit tighter in the primer pocket.

As for accuacy, there are two things that you can do to help out a lot, 1) uniform your primer pockets and 2) uniform the flash holes

hope that this helps some.

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Guest 70below

Froggy......Great info thanks! this is the stuff the books don't teach you. I appreciate the help!

Garufa.....I didn't have any problem with the HXP's I just punched the primers out and used the little Lee Precision primer pocket reaming tool around a couple times, no problems getting the new primers in.

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What set back from the rifling do you load to? I seated a couple bullets against the rifling and they came out 3.38 so I backed off to 3.35. I've heard .02 to .03 is common for match loads.

Not at home right now but if I remember correctly my COAL is 3.360 for the 200gn SMK's which is .02 off what the manual called for.

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Guest fan of the 1911

Adjust the trigger, groups look good but will tighten up with better trigger. How far are you shooting? If the bi pod has an adjustment for cant tighten up the screw until you have to use some force to seat the front of the rifle. That should take quite a bit of shake out of the rifle. If that don't help pile up the sand bags and remove the bi pod, if the groups are better on sand bags trade off the bi pod. What you are about to start doing is a sickness first it's about shooting better than all of your buddies. Then you will find yourself going to ranges where no one knows you. To test loads with different powders, bullets, weight bullets, brands of bullets, primers, brass, Powders, head space, etc. See a sickness! If you can find some one near you that loads, and trade some bullets. That way you can load about 5 each with different powder weights it will help to keep the cost down. My 30-06 liked IMR 4064 with a SMK 150 hpbt 2.5# trigger and 12X or more scope. It liked IMR4350 with heavy bullets. Pretty soon you will walk into a gun shop and find something you like and start adding scope, bullets, brass, primers, powder and dies to the cost. Sickness!! Welcome to the club!!

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Guest 70below

Oh I fully expect it to take over, I have lots of plans for this lil ol' rifle. My reloading budget went out the window this week in the tune of 175gr and 190gr SMK's, Reloader 22, IMR 4350, and more... If only it had been good weather on the range today, I would have been shooting instead of planning how to blow some cash.

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Guest Astra900

30/06 and .308 are pretty close. As such, I really think you owe it to yourself to try AA 2520. It has won many records at Camp Perry in a 308.:woohoo:

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Guest 70below
30/06 and .308 are pretty close. As such, I really think you owe it to yourself to try AA 2520. It has won many records at Camp Perry in a 308.:woohoo:

Putting fuel on the fire, fuel on the fire I say......

:(

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Guest 70below

target3_7_09.jpg

Finally made another trip back to the range. Some of the loads worked well others not so well. All were better than factory loads though. The center shots were some factory loads just to verify my zero was still intact. All shots were at 150yds. All other groups were 4 shots and the group on the left is actually two groups over one another. I had adjusted my trigger down as low as it will go, its much better, but I'm definitely considering upgrading to a Timney trigger. Shots were off the same bipod with no sandbag support under the rear of the stock. I loaded some SMK's and ran them at another target, they really spread out, so I need to work on the load for those apparently. The nosler balistic tips seem alot more forgiving. I had to seat the SMK's back quite a bit further back to keep them off the rifling. My overall length on the BT's was 3.35" and the with the SMK's it was 2.29". I'm guessing this had to do partially with the diameter of the SMK's being a true .308 dia while I mic'd the BT's at .307 dia. I had difficulty seating consistantly with the shorter overall length so possibly my pressures varied a bit more and caused the SMK's to spread out a bit.

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