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1 hour ago, peejman said:

I had similar paranoia so several years ago when it got down to 10F,  I crawled under my house with a thermometer. Temps adjacent to the water lines were about 35F.  So now I know I'm fine at 10, probably fine well into single digits. That's with power/heat in the house.  Very different if no heat. 

Was the wind blowing?  Crawl space fairly air tight when any foundation vents closed???

When we built our current house I had the contractor keep ALL water lines away from the foundation walls except for the outside facets as I had a frozen pipe about 30 yrs ago on Christmas Eve with family coming the next day.  I found the frozen section before the plumber arrived, and there was a quarter inch gap where the wind came thru overnight on one of those rate single digit nights we have here in E TN.  Only cost me $75 to have the burst pipe repaired, but this was 30 yrs ago too.   I use those foam facet covers on the outside facets now, and also installed  that split foam pipe insulation on all of the water pipes under the house.  Don't want any more of those frozen pipes for me.  LOL

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3 hours ago, bersaguy said:

When I moved in here 2 years ago one of my first investment was in 4 heat tapes for my pipes and have not had to worry about frozen pipes. My main concern is power loss and no heat in the house other than small space heaters that would have to operate off generator. That would put a strain on the generator to heat the house and operate fridge and freezer and 1 lamp plus heat tapes. Tommy said the generator would more than handle it and I'm just glad I have not had to find out!!!!

Heat tapes draw very, very little wattage. I doubt a generator would be able to tell if they were even on, IMO. 

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22 minutes ago, jpx2rk said:

Was the wind blowing?  Crawl space fairly air tight when any foundation vents closed???

When we built our current house I had the contractor keep ALL water lines away from the foundation walls except for the outside facets as I had a frozen pipe about 30 yrs ago on Christmas Eve with family coming the next day.  I found the frozen section before the plumber arrived, and there was a quarter inch gap where the wind came thru overnight on one of those rate single digit nights we have here in E TN.  Only cost me $75 to have the burst pipe repaired, but this was 30 yrs ago too.   I use those foam facet covers on the outside facets now, and also installed  that split foam pipe insulation on all of the water pipes under the house.  Don't want any more of those frozen pipes for me.  LOL

Why don't you just let your faucet drip water slowly on on those single digit temp nights? Takes away all the worries & stress.

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29 minutes ago, jpx2rk said:

Was the wind blowing?  Crawl space fairly air tight when any foundation vents closed???

When we built our current house I had the contractor keep ALL water lines away from the foundation walls except for the outside facets as I had a frozen pipe about 30 yrs ago on Christmas Eve with family coming the next day.  I found the frozen section before the plumber arrived, and there was a quarter inch gap where the wind came thru overnight on one of those rate single digit nights we have here in E TN.  Only cost me $75 to have the burst pipe repaired, but this was 30 yrs ago too.   I use those foam facet covers on the outside facets now, and also installed  that split foam pipe insulation on all of the water pipes under the house.  Don't want any more of those frozen pipes for me.  LOL

I don't really recall how windy it was. Yes, the crawlspace is sealed up pretty well. I've been down there on a sunny day looking for light shining through and have sealed up gaps with expanding foam.  Vapor barrier on the ground and R19 in the floor joists. 

The only pipes I have along the outer walls are the spigots, and they're freeze proof with foam covers. The other water lines (copper) are a few feet in from the walls, which is where I measured the temp.  I have some of the split foam on the hot line that runs the length of the house, but that's it. 

 

12 minutes ago, bobsguns said:

Why don't you just let your faucet drip water slowly on on those single digit temp nights? Takes away all the worries & stress.

The reason I measured the temp was to decide if I needed to listen to water dripping all night. 

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11 hours ago, RED333 said:

Leaving water drip will cut the seat of the valve, and the valve will leak from then on, this is the voice of experience!

LOL! No, it won't. 

First of all, new valves don't use rubber valve seals anymore. Silicon doesn't get "cut" buy water.

Secondly, water dripping doesn't generate enough velocity to "cut" a rubber seal. Water HAS to have high velocity in order to act as a cutting agent. Most likely your seal was buna rubber & was old to begin with. New replacement gaskets should be silicon rubber (unless you buy at Wal-Mart) & last for decades. 

Drip on freely, gents.

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You know, we’ve been here 18 years, and I’ve yet to fix a dripping faucet. I didn’t buy really high end fixtures either. They’ve come a long way in that department. 
 

I remember the old style with the rubber seals. My wife would crank them down like she was arm wrestling a football player. They got replaced frequently. Seems like I had a tool to remove and replace the seats as well. No idea where that is now.

Edited by gregintenn
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14 hours ago, bobsguns said:

Put a wash cloth or dish rag in a ball, under the water drip. You won't hear a thing. 

Tried that.  It works until the rag gets saturated, then it's drip, drip, drip, drip.... 

The leaky faucet after dripping could be due to hard water deposit build up. I had to replace seals in our shower valve twice a year at our old house. 

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