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Reloaders, what else do I need?


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strickj, for loading 9mm & .45 I would suggest a progressive or turret press.

The Lee turret is a hit or miss if it works great or not but is worth the $$ to get started with.

It is cheap enough to start out with then you can upgrade from there.

IMHO a single stage takes way tooo much time for pistol rds.

I use the Lee turret & it works great for my needs.

I have heared of others that were not as lucky.

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xd shooter is right but, a single stage press is not a bad way to begin. I didn't see a reloading tray/block that holds 50 cases. I use these with charging the primed cases with powder and during the bullet seating operation. I would also recommend a tumbler to clean the brass. Midway makes a decent one at a good price.

For a reloading manual, I would recommend Sierra, Hornady or Accurate Arms. Sportsman's Warehouse should have one of those.

For pistol dies, I have always had good service with the Lee dies. However, for my Dillon press, I use Dillon dies. If you can swing it, opt for the Lee Turret press. It will give you more options and flexibility over the years. I still have mine but, graduated to a Dillon 550, 15 years ago.

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You really need a kinetic bullet puller. We all make mistakes, and 3 whacks on your bench will get all of your components back to start over.

I'd also recommend the Lee Auto Prime hand primer. After depriming and resizing, it's a whole lot faster to prime a bunch at once.

You can actually print your own load manuals from most of the powder manufacturers websites. I use a Lyman manual and Lee manual, but I also check VV's load data, since that's the only powder I use.

Mac

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I went with the Classic turret from Lee with 4 I repeat 4 hole turret!

If I had it to do again I would go with it again.

Also the Pro auto disk is much better than the regular auto disk in that kit.

Last but not least the Lee balance beam scale will get you started but you wil end up changeing it too.

Man life is FULL of decesions. :2cents:

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Guest canebreaker

I would take the Lee 90030 kit over the Lee 90050 kit. Since that's what I have been using since 1992. It comes with 9 shell holder for almost all cases for the auto primer where the 90050 doesn't.

Wideners.com shows it at a better price than what your showing even with free shipping. They are in Johnson City, TN so sales tax would be added too. Try fmreloading.com , check their prices. They are out of state, so no sales tax added.

I checked prices of die sets at kittery too. Seems they are better prices elsewhere too.

I'm loading .38 spl., .357, 9mm and .380 auto. Slow and easy.

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Get a digital scale as the beam scale with the Lee stuff is a PIA at best.

You'll need calipers unless I missed you had them or were getting them already.

Carbide dies don't need wax (usually) but a can of Imperial is good to have around.

A method to record your load data for future reference and a means to keep it with the loaded ammo. I use stickers that were being thrown away from work that are about 3 inches long and 3/4 inch high. I write the load data and date on sticker and stick it in the plastic ammo box so I know what I'm shooting and how old it is. A sprial notebook will work on the permanent records.

Get some 50 count ammo boxes from Midway for your 9mm. They stack and are see through so you can tell what you have.

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I'd also recommend the Lee Auto Prime hand primer. After depriming and resizing, it's a whole lot faster to prime a bunch at once.
I would recommend the Lee Breech Lock Challenger Press Kit( Lee Challenger Breech Lock Single Stage Press Kit - MidwayUSA ), instead of the Anniversary kit for this reason. I much prefer a hand primer versus priming on the press. The non- anniversary kit is what I started with and it is a good buy to get you started. I have since replaced much of what came with it, but I still use some of the items and would make the same purchase again If I were starting over.

As for other things you will need-

Required:

Reloading manual- I like the Lyman manual. Especially for a beginning reloader.

Dies and shellholders- Lee die sets come with the appropriate shellholder, others don't. Carbide or titanium nitride sizing dies do away with the need for lube on straight walled pistol cartridges.

Loading blocks(2)- I like the Hornady universal loading blocks, but pretty much any of them are fine.

Calipers- You'll need these to measure case and cartridge overall lengths

Extra bushings- Extra Breech Lock bushings for every die you will be using.

Brass, bullets, powder, primers

Optional:

Case tumbler to clean up your brass before reloading.

Bullet puller

Case trimmer if you will be loading bottleneck cartridges. You can buy case length gauges and shellholders from Lee that work with the cutter and lock stud that come in the kit.

Scale. The Lee kit comes with a scale that works fine for weighing powder charges and light bullets, but it only weighs up to 101gr.. If you want to be able to weigh heavier bullets or cases you will need a scale with more capacity.

Case lube pad

Chamfer/deburring tool. The Lee kit comes with a deburring tool that works but it is a little awkward to use.

That's about all that I can think of at the moment. Once you get started with the basics, you'll start to get a clearer idea of what you'll want to add in the future.

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I have been reloading for 1-1/2 years. Not long I admit, but in that time I have reloaded at least 10,000 rounds of .223 with great success. I may be able to offer a few good suggestions. I have a Dillon 550 and a challenger press. I bought a used Dillon ($175, yeah I stole it) first from a friend and a used Challenger for ($20) from the Reloaders Bench in Mt Juliet.

I agree with everyone that you need a progressive. My Challenger is relegated to resizing and “popping primers.” It, in my humble opinion, is too slow. Do you want spend your time making bullets or do you want to spend your time shooting them.

To save money, download “Reloaders Reference v9.3x74r” off the internet (Link: http://sourceforge.net/projects/reloadersrfrnce/) . It has the information from just about all the reloading manuals in it. Buying all the stuff is the most expensive time of reloading. As McAllyn said, you can download manuals, buy them later if you want.

The things you need (in my humble opinion):

Case prep:

A tumbler (Berrys model 400 is a great tumbler) $60

A sifter (to quickly separate the brass from the media) $10

Resizing lube $5

A stuck case remover (unsure if needed for pistol rounds, I have not done pistol yet) $15

A case trimmer with a 3 way cutter on it (I’m lazy. It cuts, deburrs, and chamfers all at once)

A Chamfer tool (unsure if needed for pistol rounds, I have not done pistol yet)’

Actual reloading:

A press (you get what you pay for)

Dies and shellholders of whatever you’re going to reload.

A kinetic bullet puller (for those mistakes McAllyn talked about) $20

A great scale (you’re going to be measuring itty bitty weights. A great scale is extremely important) $60

A caliper (I recommend Digital 6" Calipers) $25

And of course, Brass, bullets, powder, primers

As if you don’t already know this, reloading at the beginning is very expensive. But it gets cheap fast. The initial outlay of money will be recovered in time depending on how much you reload. To me, it was worth every penny. I literally shoot every weekend, where before I could only afford to shoot 3 or 4 times a year. As an added bonus, I find reloading relaxing.

John

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Guest canebreaker

If your cheap like me, use a 45 cal ammo plastic tray, with a bandsaw, cut about 1/4" off the top. You can now use it as a loading tray for both 9m and 45s. The ones I use are Remington, name on the side, black. MIN.#6, G58101216 on the bottom. My loading bench is a homemade roll around cart. None of this stuck in the basement loading. Heck sit back and watch tv.

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Cane, I'm not trying to slap you down but sitting in front of the TV, having one in the basement with you, even to much chatting with your gun buddy is a recipe for an accident.

DO NOT distract yourself with anything while reloading. Forgetting to throw a charge, throwing a double charge, pushing back a shoulder, many other things can happen when you are not paying strict attention to what your doing!

I may have a little music in the background but usually I'm running it like a assembly line. One process at a time. Decap all, resize all, trim all, prime all, measure and throw a charge then seat the bullet, one at a time! Find a good spot to end the process if you know you have to leave in the middle of anything.

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I'll be the dissenting voice, and say don't get a Lee Turret Press. I bought the Lee Turret Press kit, and have had several issues with the press, and have called the factory three or four times. While their service has been pretty good to resolve the issues, the issues shouldn't have existed to start with. I would start off with a single stage, even for 9mm and .45.

The single stage is simple, cheap, and you can always use it. With a turret or progressive press with a powder thrower on it, it can take a few minutes to change calibers or loads. Kind of irritating if you only want to load 5 or 10 rounds to try a new load.

If you decide you need a faster press, you may not be happy with the speed a turret press provides. I have a 4 hole Lee turret, and am looking to move to a Dillon 550. You might want to skip the turret stage entirely.

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Guest forrestcav

I have to go with 56fordguy too. i'm beginner (less than 1 year), but have loaded hundred's of .45's and .30-06 with a single stage lee press. I have the anniversary kit that I bought ten years ago and stored it. Lee's powder measure is a PIA, but the beam scale is simple enough. i plan to upgrade to a digital scale, but beam scales don't get dead batteries. Single stages are nice because you become intimate with every step of the reloading process. I don't think the aniversary come with the ram primer, but comes with the auto prime. I like to use mine while watching TV, but load everything else in my home office on a dedicated bench. I also used the ammo blocks that came with my ammo new, like the lower white one I have, found a bunch in the trash at the range on saturday picking up brass. i only wish I had the breech lock to minimize have to adjust dies everytime. Start and simple and expand as needed, you may start and decide you'd you'd rather buy new. MHO

GOTTA get the kinetic ball puller, greatest thing since sliced bread!!

Edited by forrestcav
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Guest canebreaker

I've been single stage all my reloading life. Just now do I have distractions. I have never missed anything on a load. I may have 40 trays stacked with powder in cases, but every case is looked at before bullets are inserted. But distractions are mounting, good luck everyone.

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Guest canebreaker

I've been single stage all my reloading life. Just now do I have distractions. I have never missed anything on a load. I may have 40 trays stacked with powder in cases, but every case is looked at before bullets are inserted. But distractions are mounting, good luck everyone.

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I use a Lee classic turret press, and also a Redding turret press, both work well, the Lee I have has the auto advance, which works well, and is kind of nice, the Redding has a much more powerful ram. BTW, I use the 4th hole in the Lee for a powder check, a little safer, in my opinion.

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In addition to the kit you listed, you will immediatly need a manual, brass, primers, powder, bullets, and CARBIDE dies. Next, you'll add calipers, a tumbler, a hand priming kit, and other assorted goodies. It never ends, really. I disagree with the progressive folks. If you aren't making giant quantities of ammo, a single stage is great. I've been using the Lee Anniversary Kit for 15 years with no complaints. I am able to upgrade now, but see no need to.

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I started with a Lyman TMag2000 single stage and it was a good way to learn. Been using it on and off for ten years. I finally bought a Hornady Lock-N-Load and it flies on pistol rounds. I have the radio on in the background while I'm running out of something. Need large pistol primers now to finish the .45's

Bullet pullers come in real handy. Get one!

If you get a progressive, you can still do one component at a time until you get used to it. No big deal.

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