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Best barrel length for .300 BLK pistol?


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Mine is 10.5" it works great. I wouldn't mind it being an inch shorter. When you add a suppressor (6-8") you'll be at normal rifle length. You don't gain much velocity with an inch so I'd vote for the best deal you can get between 9"-10"

I got a really good deal on my barrel from Alpha Shooting Sports. It was on sale for $125 or something close. That's why I chose it.

If I had unlimited funds I'd probably get a Noveske 10.2"
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I have the 9" AAC upper. It eats everything I feed it including some 175gr subsonics that most folks seem to have feed issues with. I have a YHM Stainless 7.62 Phantom suppressor and it works well. The can is 28 ounces and is tough to hold for long on any of my 16" Blackout guns.
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Mine will be running a 9.5" barrel.

 

What barrel are you going with?

 

I've thought about a core15.com 9.5" but it has a 1:8 twist.  Should I be concerned about the 1:8 with heavy subsonics?  I typically use the 225gr Hornady in my 16" and it shoots great.

Edited by samson7x
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I have a YHM Stainless 7.62 Phantom suppressor and it works well. The can is 28 ounces and is tough to hold for long on any of my 16" Blackout guns.

 

At the NRA show, they told me they will have a titanium QD version of that suppressor out by year's end.  I wish I could get the paperwork started on it now!

 

I run a 10.5 Alpha like Lumber_Jack, for the same reason.  I had an early AAC barrel in 10, but I had a squib and ruptured it.  I decided I would use a cheaper barrel from now on because of that possibility. 

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  • 4 months later...

Ignore my initial statement about eventually getting a suppressor. Let's assume the only thing to be attached to the end of the barrel will be a Noveske KX3 (pig), if that even changes anything. 

 

The idea of going with a pistol is to keep it as small as possible. Something that will easily fit into a backpack would be nice. Reliability is also important, of course.  Has anyone with a 8.5" or 9" barrel noticed any issues with ammo? I would like the ability to use subs to supers, if at all possible. Am I asking and expecting too much? 

Edited by TripleDigitRide
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[quote name="TripleDigitRide" post="1044914" timestamp="1381115050"] Ignore my initial statement about eventually getting a suppressor. Let's assume the only thing to be attached to the end of the barrel will be a Noveske KX3 (pig), if that even changes anything. The idea of going with a pistol is to keep it as small as possible. Something that will easily fit into a backpack would be nice. Reliability is also important, of course. Has anyone with a 8.5" or 9" barrel noticed any issues with ammo? I would like the ability to use subs to supers, if at all possible. Am I asking and expecting too much?[/quote] Honestly, with pistol length gas, adjustable block, AND a pig, you should be able to shoot any length you want that's commercially available. (Even without the pig, but gas block might need more adjusting) I would look at all available. Core15 - 9.5" Noveske - 8.2" Alpha Shooting Sports - 8.1" CMMG - 8.5" AAC - 9" Rainier Arms - 8.5" (several options) Availability varies, some are in stock, some aren't. Also if you buy a Noveske it should come with a non-adjustable block, but should run both subs and suppers (according to them), I'd put a pig on just for added pressure (and looks :D) Edited by Lumber_Jack
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I have an 8.5" McGowen on order to build my 300 BLK pistol when our uppers and lowers get in. Mine will be threaded as I plan to shoot it mostly suppressed.  I went with 8.5 to keep it as short as possible with the suppressor on it, but yet from what I read allow it to function properly if it isn't.  I hope to have everything up and running by the end of the year.

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Anyone know how much additional length the Pig adds to the overall length?

 

About 2.5".

 

I would suggest running an adjustable gas block regardless of what configuration you have or caliber you have. A lot of guns these days are over gassed and the easiest and cheapest cure for that is an adjustable gas block. Here is a write up on the issue of over gassed guns:

http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/topic/56496-over-gassing-an-ar-and-the-problems-is-causes/

 

An adjustable gas block is not only about being reliable but also about recoil. A lot of recoil from an AR comes from the bolt and buffer hitting the back of the buffer tube. If you adjust the gas system so it barely hits the back of the buffer tube the recoil will be recduced. It also helps with reliability because a properly gassed gun also runs cleaner because the bolt remains locked longer and doesn't unlock until the pressure drops inside the barrel.

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They add weight and dialing back the gas will reduce the felt recoil just the same.

Use standard parts first that way you don't end up with a upper or lower that will only work with its mate. The best thing about the 300 is you are supposed to be able to toss any upper on any lower and have it run.
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