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I don't have a S&W snub nose 357, but I want one


Tennjed

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So I have one glaring omission from my collection (ok maybe more than one). I do not have a snub nose S&W 357.

I want to pick one up, not necessarily a carry gun, just want to add something I don't have. Blued or SS, doesn't matter. I would want to keep it under 750 or so (give or take $100)

Off the top of my head I would probably want a 686, 7 shot. Just because it is unique. I don't care one way or the other about the internal lock. It doesn't bother me, but was wondering what are some of the older classic 357 snubs to look at? I am not well versed in Smith's models.

If I could find one for $500 or less even better
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Yep, an old model 19 for a blued gun or a 66 for a stainless gun. 2 1/2" barrel

686s are bigger than they need to be for a snubnose

I know you said you werent interested in a carry gun but IMO, the Model 19/66 is the perfect carry revolver. Its about as small as you can get and still retain a 6-shot .357 cylinder and shoots great Edited by nightrunner
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What size frame are you looking for? I'm partial to the K frames myself. As mentioned the adjustable sight K frames are 19 or 66. Fixed sight guns are 13 or 65.

 

The 586/686 guns are a little larger L frame with adjustable sights. There are also fixed sight L frame but I have not come across short barrel versions.

 

Up from that are the N frame guns. Model 27 are consider the higher class versions (high polish blue, checkered top strap) and come in a 3.5" barrel. Model 28s are the blue collar version but again I do not recall any short barrel versions.

 

Down from the K Frame in size are the J Frames. There are a few J Frames in 357, one of the most popular is the Model 60.

 

How short of a barrel are you looking for? My current preference is 3". Not really considered a snub, but a really nice balance.

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Most of the used ones you'll find have been fired very little....pull the trigger on a full house load and you'll know why. ;)

Also, all the pain and no gain. Other than a true S&W aficionado most that own one would agree that the Ruger sp101 is better in the mag than the j frame Smiths. A k frame is a little different story, but believe it or not the j frame is stronger in some areas by design, both are weak in the forcing cone. The K frame will handle recoil better but you still don't get enough barrel to utilize the load. The L frames are even a little better all around. Stick with heavier bullets in all. I would love to have a old FBI S&W 13 in 3".
I have not shot one but the 327mag makes for a great round in a smaller revolver than a 357 mag. It's closer to 357 mag energy with milder recoil.
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The 2 1/2" Model 19 is the one I'd go for, or the 66 if SS finish is what you want.  You can find them fairly often on gunbroker.com .  

 

Recently picked up a Model 19, blued, 2 1/2 in. It is great. I heartily recommend one if you can find one reasonable. The 66 is another good one.

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About the only downside to the K-Frame is that running too many hot 357 loads can split the forcing cone. This is the main reason the L Frame was built.

 

 

I would love to have a old FBI S&W 13 in 3".

My favorite by far :up:

[URL=http://s213.photobucket.com/user/madavis5/media/Guns/M13-33inch1.jpg.html]M13-33inch1.jpg[/URL]

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Guest Lester Weevils

Have read that a 3" barrel 686 or other big-frame S&W isn't any more painful to shoot than a 4" barrel 686/586/whatever. And I consider the 4" barrel guns not at all painful even with hot loads.

 

Had a j-frame stainless 649 (2" barrel or whatever) which I liked a lot, and it didn't seem painful to shoot when I was younger. But a couple of years ago it got too intolerably painful to shoot. Shoot out 5 or 10 rounds of medium-power 158 gn ammo, and it would feel like I broke my wrist. Wrist would hurt the rest of the day. So I traded it off.

 

If I get another "snubbie" it will be a 3" barrel 686 or bigger frame S&W. Of course that isn't exactly a pocket gun.

Edited by Lester Weevils
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My favorites are the K Frame 66 and 19s. Ones in good condition are going to run 550 to 750. Box, tools, papers etc.

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P1010009.jpg

If you simply want a good all around .357 get a new Ruger. 3 inch 100s are going for around $530.

Edited by DAdams
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:tinfoil: Just my opinion but if you want a shooter go with the sp101 it hill handle a lifetime of shooting,I've had several smiths over the years and still do but I've always had it in the back of my mind it wont hold up to alot of pressure so they sit in the safe. It's wierd if you have a ruger auto at a gun show people snub thier nose but a ruger revolver they always want to see it.but I will say i have only seen one problem with a smith wheelgun it was a k frame and some hot ass loads(cracked forcing cone).OH Hell I love em all get a smith and a 101

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Guest Aces&8s

My EDC is a pre-lock S&W Model 60-9 with the 2 1/8" barrel.  It is one heck of a little revolver, and I love the heft of the stainless steel frame:  it just feels right to me, unlike a lot of the airweight guns.  Like others have said, though, I do not shoot a lot of full house magnums through it.  The .38 Spcl +P is very manageable with this gun though, so I usually carry 5 rounds of 125 grain +P Golden Sabres in the cylinder, and either one or two speedloaders.  I like having the option to "go big," if I ever need to, but the difference in how the gun handles with the high power rounds is considerable, and I am a big believer in "shoot what you carry, carry what you shoot."

 

IMG_20130528_193644_zps34e305b9.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't know about you folks but I tried to really like to carry a  snubby.  I like revolvers and can pretty much do anything to the innards to make them run a bit better.  I took a combat snubbie class one time a couple of years ago and found out that if I shoot all my rounds I simply cannot reload fast enough regardless of the system, especially under stress.  I am not Jerry Miculek.  Not that I would need more than 5 but that would be a nice option.  I suppose I could carry 5 or six snubbies, aka Josey Wales, but that ain't likely.  I think a hammerless airweight .38 in a jacket pocket to run to the store is a good thing, but then so is an LCP or Keltec .380 or even a .32.  For different geography I simply use Glock.  In snubbies I think I have owned 2 LCRs, 3 Airweight .38s, a ported titanium .357 snubbie, 2 model 60s, a couple of Taurus 85s, 2 SP101s, and a couple of those Taurus 9mm 905s.  In my mind a snubbie with moon clips is the way to go but the 905's clips are too flimsy for carry reliability.  

 

One last thing, the way the Ruger LCR, SP101, S&W and Taurus cycle and fire are all different in rhythm in pace. In that respect I like in this order: S&W, Taurus, SP101, LCR.  I think the SP101 is the most durable and easy to work on.  It is the heaviest by far.   I don't like the machining on newer Taurus's and think the hammerless Airweights are the most practical.

 

Remember what God and Ed McGivern(author of the 1938 epic book "Fast and Fancy Revolver Shooting") have decreed: "Double action revolvers should be shot double action."

"Pulling the hammer back takes time, and stumbling around in the dark with the hammer back on a DA revolver is a fool's errand." Graycrait '13.  I've found that DA revolvers can be shot very accurately in DA if the trigger is smooth for those who like to shoot groups on paper.

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