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New hand forged work in progress


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I decided to try a few different things. This knife has three first for me. A stacked leather washer handle, a distal taper, and a bull horn pommel. The blade stills needs finish sanded, and the handle has a few rough spots to work out. So far I love the feel, and that distal taper makes it stupid fast in the hand. 10.5" 1095 distal tapered blade, stakced leather washer handle with mink oil finish, mild steel guard, bull horn pommel. I'm gonna enjoy this one

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I like it.

 

I really like how your work has evolved and refined since you began.

 

I have been of the mindset that every knife needs to be better than the last. Not sure its always true, but I'm enjoying learning and sharing what I make with everyone here. Thanks for the compliments guys. This one is my shot at a knife that looks like it may have been drug the jungles of Vietnam, or across Europe or island hopping in WW2. The leather handle with the worn look, and it'll be getting a mustard patina, to make it look battle hardened.

Edited by Spots
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Guest Broomhead
Awesome work, brother. You may want to remove the mink oil and seal it with cyanoacrylate. It'll keep the leather from shrinking and splitting. I can detail the process if you'd like.
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Awesome work, brother. You may want to remove the mink oil and seal it with cyanoacrylate. It'll keep the leather from shrinking and splitting. I can detail the process if you'd like.


Send it to me in a pm. Ill leave this one as I want a more traditional look and feel and itll get oiled regularly. This one is has devcon 2 ton epoxy between every washer, and would have to be cut off the handle to be removed lol.

I like the Bowie shape. Are you hand hammering those into shape?


Yes. I start out with a file apx 12" long, draw the tang down with a hammer, then hot cut the clip point and draw it with a hammer. Forge in the bevels and on a distal taper I hammer that in as well. Once its about 90%, ill clean up the bevels on my 1x30 harbor freight belt grinder, then heat treat and hand sharpen. Your welcome to come to the forge and watch or make one to take home anytime. Edited by Spots
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I love that patina look.

Yeah its funny how just a few small finish changes make a lnife completely different. These 2 are made from the same steel, same blade shape, same tang style. Handle material and finish is the only visible difference and it completely changes the blades.

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I like how it looks like it would be right at home in a museum with Civil War type artifacts - the patina is awesome.  I have to admit, though, that I think the 'gentleman's fighting knife' you made some months back is still probably my favorite that I have seen of yours, so far (is that a pic of it on the bottom of your last post?)

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I think you might mean these. I make so many its hard to keep up. The 2 pictured above are just a few weeks old.2012-11-30_15-31-16_240.jpg


Crazy/stupid question Spots, can those still be effectively used as files after having the snot beat out them and all the heating/ quenching?
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Crazy/stupid question Spots, can those still be effectively used as files after having the snot beat out them and all the heating/ quenching?


Yes and no. I knock the edges off the teeth with a grinder to stop them from tearing a sheath all to pieces. I could leave the teeth on the back of a file knife, but it wouldn't cut very long as I temper them softer to stop edge chipping and make it stronger. A file is super hard an abrasion resistant but its very brittle and breaks easy. Thats why we anneal, then reharden and temper the blades. A file has a higher rockwell hardness, where my blades are edge quenched then have a soft back draw temper. This gives a hard edge in the 58-60 rockweel range, a springy middle and a softer back. This is the best combo I have a found for edge holding and toughness, and is superior to a blade that is hardened and temper all at one hardness.
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