Jump to content

New hand forged work in progress


Recommended Posts

I decided to try a few different things. This knife has three first for me. A stacked leather washer handle, a distal taper, and a bull horn pommel. The blade stills needs finish sanded, and the handle has a few rough spots to work out. So far I love the feel, and that distal taper makes it stupid fast in the hand. 10.5" 1095 distal tapered blade, stakced leather washer handle with mink oil finish, mild steel guard, bull horn pommel. I'm gonna enjoy this one

20140811_001900_zpsvuhvfih8.jpg

20140811_001949_zpst2o5xnuc.jpg

20140811_002001_zps2h2m34ra.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to post

I like it.

 

I really like how your work has evolved and refined since you began.

 

I have been of the mindset that every knife needs to be better than the last. Not sure its always true, but I'm enjoying learning and sharing what I make with everyone here. Thanks for the compliments guys. This one is my shot at a knife that looks like it may have been drug the jungles of Vietnam, or across Europe or island hopping in WW2. The leather handle with the worn look, and it'll be getting a mustard patina, to make it look battle hardened.

Edited by Spots
  • Like 1
Link to post
That's a real sticker ! :)

Although it's hard for me to look at the handle , it reminds me of that picture that was posted with the sliced fingers in the I Cut Myself thread. :( Edited by Fourtyfive
Link to post
Awesome work, brother. You may want to remove the mink oil and seal it with cyanoacrylate. It'll keep the leather from shrinking and splitting. I can detail the process if you'd like.
Link to post

Awesome work, brother. You may want to remove the mink oil and seal it with cyanoacrylate. It'll keep the leather from shrinking and splitting. I can detail the process if you'd like.


Send it to me in a pm. Ill leave this one as I want a more traditional look and feel and itll get oiled regularly. This one is has devcon 2 ton epoxy between every washer, and would have to be cut off the handle to be removed lol.

I like the Bowie shape. Are you hand hammering those into shape?


Yes. I start out with a file apx 12" long, draw the tang down with a hammer, then hot cut the clip point and draw it with a hammer. Forge in the bevels and on a distal taper I hammer that in as well. Once its about 90%, ill clean up the bevels on my 1x30 harbor freight belt grinder, then heat treat and hand sharpen. Your welcome to come to the forge and watch or make one to take home anytime. Edited by Spots
Link to post

I love that patina look.

Yeah its funny how just a few small finish changes make a lnife completely different. These 2 are made from the same steel, same blade shape, same tang style. Handle material and finish is the only visible difference and it completely changes the blades.

20140811_212102_zpslkdcmzj2.jpg

knife1_zps808029d7.jpg
Link to post

I like how it looks like it would be right at home in a museum with Civil War type artifacts - the patina is awesome.  I have to admit, though, that I think the 'gentleman's fighting knife' you made some months back is still probably my favorite that I have seen of yours, so far (is that a pic of it on the bottom of your last post?)

Link to post

I think you might mean these. I make so many its hard to keep up. The 2 pictured above are just a few weeks old.2012-11-30_15-31-16_240.jpg


Crazy/stupid question Spots, can those still be effectively used as files after having the snot beat out them and all the heating/ quenching?
Link to post

Crazy/stupid question Spots, can those still be effectively used as files after having the snot beat out them and all the heating/ quenching?


Yes and no. I knock the edges off the teeth with a grinder to stop them from tearing a sheath all to pieces. I could leave the teeth on the back of a file knife, but it wouldn't cut very long as I temper them softer to stop edge chipping and make it stronger. A file is super hard an abrasion resistant but its very brittle and breaks easy. Thats why we anneal, then reharden and temper the blades. A file has a higher rockwell hardness, where my blades are edge quenched then have a soft back draw temper. This gives a hard edge in the 58-60 rockweel range, a springy middle and a softer back. This is the best combo I have a found for edge holding and toughness, and is superior to a blade that is hardened and temper all at one hardness.
Link to post
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

THE FINE PRINT

Tennessee Gun Owners (TNGunOwners.com) is the premier Community and Discussion Forum for gun owners, firearm enthusiasts, sportsmen and Second Amendment proponents in the state of Tennessee and surrounding region.

TNGunOwners.com (TGO) is a presentation of Enthusiast Productions. The TGO state flag logo and the TGO tri-hole "icon" logo are trademarks of Tennessee Gun Owners. The TGO logos and all content presented on this site may not be reproduced in any form without express written permission. The opinions expressed on TGO are those of their authors and do not necessarily reflect those of the site's owners or staff.

Before engaging in any transaction of goods or services on TGO, all parties involved must know and follow the local, state and Federal laws regarding those transactions. TGO makes no claims, guarantees or assurances regarding any such transactions.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to the following.
Terms of Use | Privacy Policy | Guidelines
 
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.