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Open sight question?


SALK

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I currently have Magpul BUIS on my ar. I do not like the front sight post. Makes it hard to judge where to hold the post at for elevation. I was thinking about switching to diamond head sights and was wanting opinions. I can hit out to 300 yards with my current sights on a 12" plate. It takes a few rounds but I can, the problem for me is when it is precision within 100
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By "hard to judge for elevation"... do you mean just using a hold-over to compensate for bullet drop (aka KY windage)?

 

I try to set my irons for the "pumpkin on a post" zero.  That allows you to move the front sight up/down within the aperture to adjust for elevation.  You can also get front sight posts in various widths to suit your preference. 

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On my front there is just a post. No dot of any kind and that is what throws me off on my elevation the first few shots

 

The post is supposed to be just a post.... the pumpkin is the target, see the top left in this picture.

 

 

 

14325_322_1.jpg

 

 

 

 

Some people prefer a different sight picture.  This image shows 3-dot sights, but he idea is the same with a peep/aperture/ghost ring sight. 

 

Image 1 is as I describe, pumpkin on a post.  The bullet hits the center of the bull which is slightly above the top of the post. This allows you to see most of the target. 

 

Image 2 is more common with blade type sights where the bullet hits directly on top of the post. 

 

Image 3 is what I believe is sometimes called a "fine bead" where the bullet hits below the top of the post.  I don't like this one because it obscures too much of the target... you can't see what you're shooting at. 

 

 

 

sightimages.jpg

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Everyone likes something different. Just me, but this is what I like.

 

When I'm shooting an AR or Garand at less than 200 yards or so, I like a center hold and will adjust sights for that. When shooting my Garand or any other rifle at longer distance, the front post will block the target and I adjust for 6 O clock or pumpkin/lollipop hold.

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Why are you using KY windage?  does your rear sight not have an elevation knob?  Do your home work and use your equipment they way it was designed to be used.  Mine is zeroed at 100 yds, one click up for every 25 yards past that...  Just saying...

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May I interject here?

"Windage" and "elevation" are two different things. "Kentucky Windage", as far as I know, refers to holding off the target to the left or right (without adjusting the sights) to adjust for wind.

I've never heard the term "Kentucky Elevation", but I imagine if it were a thing, it would be holding over or under to adjust for distance.
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Why are you using KY windage?  does your rear sight not have an elevation knob?  Do your home work and use your equipment they way it was designed to be used.  Mine is zeroed at 100 yds, one click up for every 25 yards past that...  Just saying...

 

 

I feel dumb for not thinking of this...   If the yardages are known, then the correct elevation is but a few clicks away.

 

 

 

May I interject here?

"Windage" and "elevation" are two different things. "Kentucky Windage", as far as I know, refers to holding off the target to the left or right (without adjusting the sights) to adjust for wind.

I've never heard the term "Kentucky Elevation", but I imagine if it were a thing, it would be holding over or under to adjust for distance.

 

 

I use the terms hold-over and KY windage interchangeably.  Perhaps that's not entirely correct.

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Old part here. This is all I use. 

 

[url=http://s587.photobucket.com/user/ren1795/media/aperture%20front%20sight_zpsk7rhjjfg.jpg.html]aperture%20front%20sight_zpsk7rhjjfg.jpg[/URL]

 

Eyeballs like circles. rear aperture, front globe, round target. circles within circles, within circles. Your eye adjusts 

to the white of the light surround each circle.

 

It's almost cheating because changing out the size of the inserts brings a LR target into sharp focus. Kinda like a scope

without the power. And like a scope yer looking at the target exactly the same so it's just click adjustments to dead 

center.

 

I was shooting my BP .45 cal muzzle guzzler with aps and globe and I couldn't see a 7 inch target at 112 yds until 

I looked down the sights. All of a sudden I could see it like was standing 10 ft away. Bang...hit!

 

Tired eyes love these.

 

Lp

Edited by Lowpower
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The correct terminology is hold over and hold off. You can do both, depending on the situation and how far you are shooting. Also, you cannot just dial up X number of clicks on rear sight for given distance. It's not a linear thing. Short range you can to a point. However, the further you shoot, the bullet goes slower and drops faster the further it goes. 

 

Kentucky windage (holding off) works great even with a scope. Just watch any F class match because that's what they are doing much of the time out to 1,000 yards during a wind change.

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That is not entirely true.  My log has bullet drop out to 600 yards for 77grn SMK that I shoot out of my Service Rifle for competition.  WIndage as well.  Hold over with scopes in competiotion 99% of the time uses mil dots and is not true "KY windage".  but I digress in the name of peace.

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You don't hold over for F class. You dial the elevation. You "hold off" for wind changes. Most people I know do not use mil dot scopes in F class.

 

There is a tremendous difference between 100, 600 and 1,000 yards in terms of ballistic drop. The programs I use are right on the money as well out past 1,000 yards. If shooting iron sights at longer distance, the additional MOA needed must be considered and factored. It's not just a "few" clicks.

 

If you shoot service rifle, then you know what you are doing. The OP may not, he may need to consider that factor, that was my point.

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