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Shooting in low light is always tricky. What ISO numbers were you hitting. I've gotten to spend some time with the 1DX and was amazed at its capabilities, I've run 25,600 without distortion with that camera. It was amazing!

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Shooting in low light is always tricky. What ISO numbers were you hitting. I've gotten to spend some time with the 1DX and was amazed at its capabilities, I've run 25,600 without distortion with that camera. It was amazing!

 

Wow.  I remember when 1600 was grainy. 

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This may be the wrong spot the post but I thought it was the most logical place.

 

I need some advice and opinions on a new camera.

 

We''ve relied on an old Kodak digital and our smartphone cameras but we are now venturing into a sideline business that will require pics that will be posted on the web, for use in ads, etc.

 

The majority of the shots will be close ups but we travel a lot so short distance shots will probably happen to. I don't see the need for shooting crocodiles at dusk or catching a hummingbird in flight, lol.

 

And while I don't mind paying for a good product I would like to keep it under a $1,000 and closer to $500 would be even better.

 

And I would entertain a good used setup if someone is looking to upgrade

 

All help appreciated.

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This may be the wrong spot the post but I thought it was the most logical place.

 

I need some advice and opinions on a new camera.

 

We''ve relied on an old Kodak digital and our smartphone cameras but we are now venturing into a sideline business that will require pics that will be posted on the web, for use in ads, etc.

 

The majority of the shots will be close ups but we travel a lot so short distance shots will probably happen to. I don't see the need for shooting crocodiles at dusk or catching a hummingbird in flight, lol.

 

And while I don't mind paying for a good product I would like to keep it under a $1,000 and closer to $500 would be even better.

 

And I would entertain a good used setup if someone is looking to upgrade

 

All help appreciated.

 

 

A fairly nomal point-shoot type camera will do all you need.  Most have very good macro (close-up) capability with enough optical zoom (4x minimum) to be useful when things aren't quite so close.  Personally, I'm a Canon guy so that's what I look for.  But most all the big names make good cameras in that range... Nikon, Sony, Olympus, Panasonic, etc...

 

What physical size you do want?  Some true pocket cameras can take excellent pictures.  If you want more zoom, you'll end up with something that's not really pocket-able but still smaller than a DSLR.

 

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1000470-REG/canon_8406b001_powershot_g16_digital_camera.html

 

Big zoom:  http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1080919-REG/canon_9543b001_powershot_sx60_hs_digital.html

 

Small-ish: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1110377-REG/canon_0109c001_powershot_sx710_hs_digital.html

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A fairly nomal point-shoot type camera will do all you need.  Most have very good macro (close-up) capability with enough optical zoom (4x minimum) to be useful when things aren't quite so close.  Personally, I'm a Canon guy so that's what I look for.  But most all the big names make good cameras in that range... Nikon, Sony, Olympus, Panasonic, etc...

 

What physical size you do want?  Some true pocket cameras can take excellent pictures.  If you want more zoom, you'll end up with something that's not really pocket-able but still smaller than a DSLR.

 

 

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1000470-REG/canon_8406b001_powershot_g16_digital_camera.html

 

Big zoom:  http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1080919-REG/canon_9543b001_powershot_sx60_hs_digital.html

 

Small-ish: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1110377-REG/canon_0109c001_powershot_sx710_hs_digital.html

 

The easier to grab and go the better. We do a fair amount of hiking/backpacking so the ability to stow it would be nice

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The easier to grab and go the better. We do a fair amount of hiking/backpacking so the ability to stow it would be nice

 

 

There's so many options....   It's best to read some online comparisons then go get touchy-feely in a store somewhere to pick out something you like. 

 

We hike too and I've gone on several motorcycle trips with my old Canon Powershot in my pocket.  It's been dropped a number of times, gotten wet a few times, and is generally on the verge of falling apart, but it still takes good pictures. 

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Shooting in low light is always tricky. What ISO numbers were you hitting. I've gotten to spend some time with the 1DX and was amazed at its capabilities, I've run 25,600 without distortion with that camera. It was amazing!

 
It seems 6400 to 12800 typically. Some shots were much higher though. Some of the shots had enough light that it opened the aperture to 2.0 from 1.8 even with a "low" ISO of 6400.
 
Overall I was quite impressed with the low light capabilities. I have messed a bit with Photoshop's noise reduction but I really have no idea what I am doing in there. Some of the photos I posted show some noticeable noise, especially closer to native resolution.
 

This may be the wrong spot the post but I thought it was the most logical place.
 
I need some advice and opinions on a new camera.
 
We''ve relied on an old Kodak digital and our smartphone cameras but we are now venturing into a sideline business that will require pics that will be posted on the web, for use in ads, etc.
 
The majority of the shots will be close ups but we travel a lot so short distance shots will probably happen to. I don't see the need for shooting crocodiles at dusk or catching a hummingbird in flight, lol.
 
And while I don't mind paying for a good product I would like to keep it under a $1,000 and closer to $500 would be even better.
 
And I would entertain a good used setup if someone is looking to upgrade
 
All help appreciated.

 
I was going to reccommend: Canon ELPH 340
 
But then I saw next month a newer version is coming out: Canon ELPH 350
 
I had one of the older ELPH's before. It was a great camera, all metal body. Great pocket cam that takes excellant photos.
 
Or, if it is just something you want to "give a try", a Canon T3i will float your boat more than fine. If you decide you need "really nice closeup photos", get you a macro lens (the 100mm 2.8 Macro might just be my next purchase). Edited by CZ9MM

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It seems 6400 to 12800 typically. Some shots were much higher though. Some of the shots had enough light that it opened the aperture to 2.0 from 1.8 even with a "low" ISO of 6400.

Overall I was quite impressed with the low light capabilities. I have messed a bit with Photoshop's noise reduction but I really have no idea what I am doing in there. Some of the photos I posted show some noticeable noise, especially closer to native resolution.


I was going to reccommend: Canon ELPH 340

But then I saw next month a newer version is coming out: Canon ELPH 350

I had one of the older ELPH's before. It was a great camera, all metal body. Great pocket cam that takes excellant photos.

Or, if it is just something you want to "give a try", a Canon T3i will float your boat more than fine. If you decide you need "really nice closeup photos", get you a macro lens (the 100mm 2.8 Macro might just be my next purchase).

My DSLR has close to 15k clicks that I got in 2009. Lags some on low light pictures these days. That T3i looks like a nice replacement. Leaned a fair amount reading this thread.

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My DSLR has close to 15k clicks that I got in 2009. Lags some on low light pictures these days. That T3i looks like a nice replacement. Leaned a fair amount reading this thread.


Which DSLR? I know the 6D is "rated" at 100,000. Honestly I don't know the first thing about shutter lag. It slightly concerns me though because I think I have snapped about 3,000 - 4,000 in the past month (I got very, very shutter happy with the new camera and lens. It makes sense that a shutter would "degrade" a bit before failing altogether. Going to do some reading and see what others say.

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Which DSLR? I know the 6D is "rated" at 100,000. Honestly I don't know the first thing about shutter lag. It slightly concerns me though because I think I have snapped about 3,000 - 4,000 in the past month (I got very, very shutter happy with the new camera and lens. It makes sense that a shutter would "degrade" a bit before failing altogether. Going to do some reading and see what others say.

Rebel XS. Within the last year I've gotten the "BUSY" screen after the shot and I've always used the high speed write type card. Most of the new cameras you can get a shutter count off the included software or a few web sites can see your count if you plug in.

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My DSLR has close to 15k clicks that I got in 2009. Lags some on low light pictures these days. That T3i looks like a nice replacement. Leaned a fair amount reading this thread.

 
 

Which DSLR? I know the 6D is "rated" at 100,000. Honestly I don't know the first thing about shutter lag. It slightly concerns me though because I think I have snapped about 3,000 - 4,000 in the past month (I got very, very shutter happy with the new camera and lens. It makes sense that a shutter would "degrade" a bit before failing altogether. Going to do some reading and see what others say.


What do you mean by "lags some in low-light"? I think you are probably talking about autofocus. Certain lenses focus much faster in low light. Also, certain cameras focus faster in low light. I think you are talking about "autofucs lag" or something simliar. If you set it to something like TV Mode, set it manually to 1/500th of a second and then used a decent "fast" lens, my guess is that it will work great.

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What do you mean by "lags some in low-light"? I think you are probably talking about autofocus. Certain lenses focus much faster in low light. Also, certain cameras focus faster in low light. I think you are talking about "autofucs lag" or something simliar. If you set it to something like TV Mode, set it manually to 1/500th of a second and then used a decent "fast" lens, my guess is that it will work great.

After the shot.

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After the shot.


Interesting. I'm not exactly sure what would be the issue here outside of the read/write of the card. Try a different card, or try a low level format of your existing card?

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I'm interested in input from other photographers that run an online portfolio. I'm heavily considering SquareSpace because it seems to be very well put together (messing around with the free demo). I have considered Flickr (free) as well as rolling my own using FOSS software on my BlueHost account.

I'm thinking of a portfolio that people can view high quality uplaods easily as well as potentially purchase prints of the images if they wish, but I don't even know if that is actually a "thing" unless you are taking really, really good photographs.

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Interesting. I'm not exactly sure what would be the issue here outside of the read/write of the card. Try a different card, or try a low level format of your existing card?

 

 

Same here.  The body/lens should be good for 50k clicks.  I have a T3i (that I got from CZ), it's nice.  I like it.

 

 

I'm interested in input from other photographers that run an online portfolio. I'm heavily considering SquareSpace because it seems to be very well put together (messing around with the free demo). I have considered Flickr (free) as well as rolling my own using FOSS software on my BlueHost account.

I'm thinking of a portfolio that people can view high quality uplaods easily as well as potentially purchase prints of the images if they wish, but I don't even know if that is actually a "thing" unless you are taking really, really good photographs.

 

 

I use smugmug, it'll do everything you've listed.  I use it primarily as a hosting and backup service.  I'll send you a referral discount code if you're interested.

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As someone who has worn out a few shutters I'll tell you guys that you have nothing to worry about.  My shutter is rated at 360K and I usually get between 900K and 1.2M before it goes.  4,000 a month is nothing.

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As someone who has worn out a few shutters I'll tell you guys that you have nothing to worry about.  My shutter is rated at 360K and I usually get between 900K and 1.2M before it goes.  4,000 a month is nothing.


Yeah, that's about what I decided when I researched. After my purchase (obviously so far my biggest investment in photography), I hated the idea of 100,000 shutter life. Then I researched it and found that not only do a lot go 2x or 3x that, even if the shutter does fail I think it is only a couple hundred dollar fix if that. I figure I am probably more likely to drop the thing and break it than wear it out. If it makes it a few years I'll probably have the itch to upgrade anyways.

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My Mark III and IV 1Ds run around $500, your 6D probably isn't that much.  I don't plan on doing any more motorsports work so the shutter that I have will probably last me years now.  I'd say most people would never wear one out even if they are shutter happy but I was shooting 5-10K 5 days per week and every now and then I'd have a day upwards of 20K, that adds up.  Probably shot more in a day back then than I do in several years now.

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They were cheap so I ordered these:

DGK Color Tools Optek Premium Reference White Balance Card Set 

 

81UygIXEwKL._SL1500_.jpg


I figured these would be nice for times when I really want white balance to matter.

 

 

I have those as well as an ExpoDisc filter for my camera.  It's a toss-up to which is easier or better, but both really provide excellent white balance.

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I have those as well as an ExpoDisc filter for my camera.  It's a toss-up to which is easier or better, but both really provide excellent white balance.

 

Glad to hear. I went with that set because it includes three shades (although I think I will probably only use the white and grey, not sure anything I use would accept the black but I could be wrong).

 

They get here this evening so looking forward to giving them a test.

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So, I did something interesting last night. I usually have just kept the "EOS Digital Solutions Disc" in the box when I purchase a Canon camera. However, last night I downloaded the "EOS Utility" as well as "Digital Photo Professional" from their website.

 

On my 6D, I can wirelessly tether using WiFi from the camera to my rMBP. That allows me to instantly transfer shots to the laptop and view them as a preview. There are also a lot of different editing options in DPP, similiar but probably unequal to those found in Photoshop/Lightroom. However, the are completely free with camera purchase. So, if you have an itch to try something new, take a look at the software that came with your Canon camera! If you lost the disc or are like me and don't own a computer with a disc drive, you can likely download it here:

 

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/support/consumer/eos_slr_camera_systems

 

On another note, does anyone have much experience with Yongnuo? I currently have a Canon Speedlite 430 EX II. I love it, but now that I have upgraded to the 6D I can no longer use that flash off camera without purchasing another flash to act as a master.

 

The Yongnuos are pretty cheap. I specifically am looking at:

 

YN560 IV

 

Great price to supposedly great feature ratio. I think they are however manual and I suppose that you would have to set the power yourself. I have never done this before, but it cannot be too hard can it?

 

These can act as master/slave and I believe you can pickup the wireless radio trigger to fire these as well.

 

I really kind of want to buy two of those 560 IV's with a trigger just to play with them and see how well they are. I don't know that I would get rid of the Canon Speedlite I own, but if I could replace it with 2  Yongnuos and wireless trigger and still come out ahead when selling it, it would be tempting if the system would work for me.

 

Thoughts?

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I have a guy at work who swears by the Yongnuo flash triggers.


Just the triggers or the system as a whole?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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