Jump to content

AR Lowers


ma6907

Recommended Posts

I have never built an AR but I am thinking of doing it.  I have 4 ARs that I have purchased "stock", 3 of them Sabres and 1 Sig.  When I look closely, I am wondering--is there really any difference in Lowers?  Can you really buy a "bad" stripped lower?  If so, what makes one "bad"?  Please be patient if this is a dumb question, i really do not know the answer?

Link to comment

Most of them come from the same forging companies as there is only a few of them. That being said the final machining can make a difference. However, as long as it is from a reputable company, you really can't get a bad lower. The "better" lowers are ones that have better finishes or extra features. Most of the basic, cheaper lowers will be mil-spec, which is the most basic requirements for manufacture.

 

A bad lower will have trigger pin holes or takedown pin holes that are mis-sized or not entirely lined up. There can also be some mag well dimension issues with bad lowers.

Link to comment

Most of them come from the same forging companies as there is only a few of them. That being said the final machining can make a difference. However, as long as it is from a reputable company, you really can't get a bad lower. The "better" lowers are ones that have better finishes or extra features. Most of the basic, cheaper lowers will be mil-spec, which is the most basic requirements for manufacture.

 

A bad lower will have trigger pin holes or takedown pin holes that are mis-sized or not entirely lined up. There can also be some mag well dimension issues with bad lowers.

Thanks.  That is kind of what I thought but i was afraid I was missing something?  They range from $25 to $250.  Only difference I can see is the name stamped on some of them.  And the finish, of course.  

Link to comment

Thanks.  That is kind of what I thought but i was afraid I was missing something?  They range from $25 to $250.  Only difference I can see is the name stamped on some of them.  And the finish, of course.  

Generally, if the price goes much over $100 it is due to the name/logo stamped on the side. If you get above the $140 mark, it usually indicates you are getting into a billet machined lower. 

Link to comment
Matching upper and lower are only important if you are trying to make sure they look the same, imho. Different mfgrs have different shades of gray/luster to their finishes. I don't give a crap, and none of my builds have matching uppers and lowers. All of them work and fit perfectly. I had/have Anderson, PSA, Stag, Doublestar, PTAC by PSA, and CMT parts. I'm happy with all of them.

The only thing that's a must for me now is enclosed trigger guards. I hate installing that stupid thing. That, and I like the look of the bigger integral guard.
Link to comment

I have lowers as cheap as andersons all the way up to a billet seekins. they all work and work well no problems with any of them. But with that being said the seekins has a lot tighter tolerances. For example when I pulled my timney trigger out of a spikes lower and dropped it in the seekins, at first I didn't think it was going to fit, it slid in without forcing it but it has to drop straight in. In the spikes you could just throw it in there. As far as comparing an anderson to a spikes, no difference what so ever other than the logos and serial #. I have the spikes upper on the seekins right now and it is a different shade as someone said above. On a low to mid range gun it wouldn't bother me so much, but this one I have a lot invested in it so I am going to have to fork out some more $ for the seekins upper. I think you are better off spending more of your money on good barrel vs. more money on a more expensive lower. Like a seekins match, ultra match, or Rainer. I had a 6.8spc Daniel Defense barrel that was a really good shooter as well.

Edited by tmauto769
Link to comment

Anderson and PSA lowers do everything a lower is expected to do.

 

For an upscale billet lower, Cross Machine and Tool makes some nice ones right here in Tennessee.

 

I would suggest foregoing a polymer receiver in favor of aluminum, but that's just my opinion.

Edited by gregintenn
  • Like 3
Link to comment

I was advised by someone I respect a GREAT deal on here when I was first starting to build ARs that a lower receiver is the absolute worst place on an AR build to waste any money on upgrades. I tend to agree and have lived that advice ever since.

  • Like 1
Link to comment

I was advised by someone I respect a GREAT deal on here when I was first starting to build ARs that a lower receiver is the absolute worst place on an AR build to waste any money on upgrades. I tend to agree and have lived that advice ever since.


I agree except for the Seekins Precision bolt catch, I love these things!
  • Like 1
Link to comment

Thanks everyone.  I was just afraid I could be missing something?  Like I said, i have only ever bought ARs already complete.  I am kind of partial to my Sabres, they fire great.  Thought I would build one just for fun.  I usually am under the feeling that you get what you pay for, but occasionally a good deal can be had.  When comparing the "function" of a lower, I just couldn't figure out the price discrepancy.  Great advice on the trigger guard, @musicman.  Ill probably end up blowing my play money on an already assembled one before I build one, anyway.  I only have 4 now, though.  How could a man be expected to get by with only 4 and never having built one?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
  • 2 weeks later...

Mega Arms. Love the machining quality and the coatings they use.


Honestly my favorite are Mega. The best quality standard forged lowers available. Built my SBR's from them. Love that the uppers are engraved with Mega also. Also like AeroPrecision.
  • Like 1
Link to comment
I have 7 or 8 Andersons. IMO anything more expensive and all you're getting is a certain name or look. Not that there's anything wrong with that, I have a few billet lowers, but the more I build the more I see them as a utility item and use them as such.
  • Like 1
Link to comment

I use whatever's cheapest from a reputable company unless I'm making a special build. Anderson and PSA are go to companies for me. If you ever want a billet, New Frontier Armory makes nice ones at a cost of a moderately priced forged lower (around $120). They're a little heavier, but the finish is nicer, and the screw in bolt release is KISS.

Link to comment

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

TRADING POST NOTICE

Before engaging in any transaction of goods or services on TGO, all parties involved must know and follow the local, state and Federal laws regarding those transactions.

TGO makes no claims, guarantees or assurances regarding any such transactions.

THE FINE PRINT

Tennessee Gun Owners (TNGunOwners.com) is the premier Community and Discussion Forum for gun owners, firearm enthusiasts, sportsmen and Second Amendment proponents in the state of Tennessee and surrounding region.

TNGunOwners.com (TGO) is a presentation of Enthusiast Productions. The TGO state flag logo and the TGO tri-hole "icon" logo are trademarks of Tennessee Gun Owners. The TGO logos and all content presented on this site may not be reproduced in any form without express written permission. The opinions expressed on TGO are those of their authors and do not necessarily reflect those of the site's owners or staff.

TNGunOwners.com (TGO) is not a lobbying organization and has no affiliation with any lobbying organizations.  Beware of scammers using the Tennessee Gun Owners name, purporting to be Pro-2A lobbying organizations!

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to the following.
Terms of Use | Privacy Policy | Guidelines
 
We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.