SpacemanSpiff
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Posts posted by SpacemanSpiff
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I shared this with a couple reloading friends of mine and one offered an addition ....
2. When your date says she wants to powder her nose, you ask if it's extruded, ball, flake, or black powder.
He's a black powder rifle shooter.
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Thanks for posting, I needed a laugh
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In case anyone is still looking ...
I found them at http://gregcotellc.com/ for $31.95 for either 7 or 8 round. I ordered them on a Friday (a couple weeks ago), received an email Saturday that it was shipped, and received them Tuesday. Not bad. The shipping was $5.95 flat rate USPS. According to their website, they're still in stock.
Great service, fast shipping.
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I purchased a mini scabbard directly from S&W's website. A little more money but it came quick since it was sent from Kentucky. I looked at that holster as well in case I need one with a thumb break. Good quality.
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Well, good news for now ... I opened up the panel on the base of the tumbler and spun the fan around a few times, flipped the switched, and it started working. The connections seemed to be fine, but I'll take a better look when I have more time. When I loaded it with media and brass, it didn't start up properly as soon as I flipped the switch, but it did after about 10-15 seconds. It will give me a chance to find something I like and hopefully on sale and not order something "just because".
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Thanks for the advice and the video. I'll give it a try ... like you said, if it's already not working, can't really screw it up any more. :-)
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MidwayUSA - Frankford Arsenal Quick-N-EZ Case Tumbler Master Kit with Quick-N-EZ Rotary Media Separator 110 Volt
I use this one. I bought the set when I started reloading last year.
Was gonna post a new topic but decided to search because I knew that there would already be a topic about it.
Anyway, this Frankford tumbler that I bought back in 2008 died today. Been running some large batches the past week. Unloaded it earlier and was getting ready to start a new batch, but it just won't go. Motor sounds like it's running but it does not work. Time for a new one. By rereading this topic, seems like a lot of people like the Lyman's.
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I have had 3 squibs in the approx 10,000 rounds that I have reloaded.
The first squib was a .40 S&W. The bullet was pushed far enough out of the brass to engage the rifling. Not sure what the cause was, but I believe it was under charged based on the other 2 squibs.
The second was a .38 spl. I didn't notice that it was a squib until the next round was fired, the second round impacted the first pushing the bullet to the muzzle and the second bullet stopped bridging the gap between the cylinder and the barrel. I took the gun to a gunsmith, after removing the 2 bullets from the barrel and removing the other 4 live rounds, we used a bullet puller and weighed the powder that was in each round. My charge was supposed to be 3.5 grains of AA #2 but the remaining four weighed between 2.9 and 3.2 grains. I use a Lyman #55 powder dispenser and what we determined was possibly static was causing the inconsistent charges. Since I've been storing it with used dryer sheets, I have not notice a problem.
My third was a 9mm. I knew it could've happened because I was trying to use the least amount of powder to cycle the action properly.
I use a single stage press, charge the case, then visually inspect that each case is charged. I know that all of my cases had powder in them, so the only thing that we could determine was inconsistent charges. I guess it could've been the primer, but I was fairly new to reloading for the first 2 squibs so we kind of ruled out the primer.
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After seeing this topic, I checked out their website. I ordered some ammo last Saturday night and it was on my doorstep by Wednesday afternoon.
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If you are not in a hurry and want to order bulk, order online from Cabelas. Last time I needed primers, i ordered from Cabelas when they offered free shipping on orders over $150. Still need to pay the Hazmet, but if you buy 5000 or more, but when you break down the Hazmet fee per 1000, it works out. I found that Cabelas prices were better than local even when you add in the Hazmet.
If you are only looking for 1000, disregard this reply.
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Titegroup is what I use for 9mm, .40, .45, and even lighter .44 magnums. I do have AA #2, 5,7, and 9 as well, but it seems that I always grab Titegroup.
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I pick up most brass that I find at the range whether I have a gun in the caliber or not. For example, I picked up some 10mm brass today. I sort it, tumble it, then use it for trading. Works for me.
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Thanks everyone for your input. I appreciate your thoughts!
I have a Lee Pro 1000 set up specifically for 9mm, so I'm not looking for a Dillon (yet). That's what I shoot the most of.
The turret seemed like it would speed up some of the other calibers that I shoot instead of using a single stage.
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I've been wanting to upgrade to a turret press from a single stage. I've been reading the reviews on the RCBS, Redding, and Lyman presses, but I was wondering if anyone has any opinions.
I think the Redding is out, since it is only right handed. I'm right handed but I use my left on my single stage, so I want the option to switch if needed.
I have concerns about the Lyman T-Mag because reviews say it has a little bit of play in the turret causing inconsistent OAL.
I only reload handgun cartridges at the moment. I also plan to continue priming separately.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Also, I assume my Lee dies and shell holders will fit any press. Correct?
Thanks!
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I prefer hand priming. I have both the Lee auto prime and the new Lee XR. I've broken 2 handles on the auto prime, but that's a different topic.
I also have an RCBS bench mounted primer. I like the feel of it better especially when priming S&B brass since their primer pockets feel a lot tighter than most other brass.
I still prime separately before using my Lee Pro 1000.
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Last I calculated 9mm, my reloading cost for materials per 50 rounds was around $6. When I started reloading in 2008, there was not much savings since you could buy a box of 50 for about $7. At today's prices for 9mm, I'm saving more per round.
The other day at the range, I shot 200 rounds of .40 S&W. Normally, it may have been 100. I agree that you reload to shoot more, not necessarily to save. Roughly, I can shoot twice as many reloaded rounds for the same money as store bought.
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I use the Glad, Publix brand or Kroger brand of what Lester pictured above. I started using the small version of them that you can buy sandwich meat in, but they obviously weren't large enough.
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I've been reloading for 30 years, and I'm still adding suff.
What he said. I've only been reloading for 3 years ... you are never fully setup.
Beginners should not start out with a progressive press. You need to learn too much and a progressive press makes things happen too quickly for you to understand where the dangers are. Even with my Dillon 550B, I still use my old RCBS RockChucker for some tasks. So getting a single-stage press first will not be a waste of your money.Still use a single stage after 3 years. I do have a Lee Pro 1000 set up for 9mm, but prefer using a single stage to watch what I'm doing.
Unless you're using new brass, need to add in the cost for a tumbler as well. Also add in the price for calipers or another type of measuring device.
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Fortunately, I'm covered with primers for a while. Bought 5000 not too long ago.
Guess I'll need to get an order in for some 9mm really soon.
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I use whatever I pick up, even S&B. The only problem I have with S&B is priming. With my Lee hand primer, I usually have trouble priming, but I bought a RCBS bench mounted priming tool that has no trouble with S&B.
The only time I sort the brass is to separate brass and nickel.
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Alright. I put a load of brass through the "lizard litter" (crushed walnut shells), some cut up used dryer sheets, and some flitz. I have to say I'm impressed. Cleaned much faster than the corn cob media. The down side, though, is that it doesn't polish nearly as well. But who cares about that? It makes no difference in how the ammo shoots.
Lately, I've been using 75% walnut and 25% corncob with some Flitz and dryer sheets. You get the abrasiveness from the walnut and the polish of corncob.
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I prep my brass in batches, so I can't really say how long it takes me reload xx amount of rounds. I use a Lee single stage press, the $25 one. I deprime, tumble, size, and expand in batches of however much brass fits in my tumbler. After all of that, I load 100 or 200 at a time. I can charge, seat, and crimp 100 in, I guess, an hour.
I have a Lee 1000 that is set up for 9mm, but I still prefer the single stage.
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titegroup as well. 4.5 grains with 180gr. Shoots very well and CLEAN!
What he said.
Do you guys re-size brass before or after you clean?
in Ammunition and Reloading
Posted
I do similar to the previous post. I use the Lee Universal decapper then I tumble with ground walnut shells. My sizing die has the decapper pin in place in case there is a piece of media in the flash hole, then I continue with the reloading process.