timcalhoun
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Posts posted by timcalhoun
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So just a quick review of the apex trigger for the shield plus. So the factory trigger in the shield plus was not completely awful but it was still bad. So I got the 165 dollar apex kit and installed it.
On the plus side : The break and reset is MUCH better
On the minus side: Both the trigger spring and sear spring in the kit are worthless if you're trying to reduce weight. According to my trigger pull gauge it was breaking at about 6lbs 11oz with the apex springs. Called apex and they suggested that I put in the original springs. Brought the pull weight to 4lbs 14oz. So tolerable....
Anyway.....there ya go. I haven't shot it yet but I don't expect any light primer strikes at almost 5lbs.
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When you think about the recent history of the 1911 you have consistently seen manufacturers about 15-20 years behind competition guns. Most of the mods done by Bill Wilson for competition found its way to major manufacturers a decade or more later. This is yet another example of them catching up. When I first built open guns for USPSA it was blatantly obvious that the dot was by far the biggest factor in fast and accurate shooting. Back then the technology wasn't quite there to make it completely possible (although there were work arounds) but now were pretty much there. As far as this gun is concerned, I would want the slide flat topped and the sights not so high and tucked down into your grip with co-witness. Would take more weight out of the gun and further reduce muzzle rise. Love the double undercut trigger guard though!!!
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I'm currently not doing them, just not enough hours in the day.…..
There are several places that will do them Bowie tactical I think???
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Just remember the HP is what John Browning wanted the 1911 to be. It was his dream design.
For the gun nerd in you….. THE BROWNING HIGH-POWER
The browning high-power that we all know and love is not the high-power that John Browning designed. When John started the design, the 1911 patents were held by Colt. So John had to start from scratch and submitted his high-power for patent in 1923. John died in 1926 before it was completed. At that point FN handed the project to Deiudonne Saive. He was the designer of the double stack magazine that they would use for the 9mm. In the meantime the Colt 1911 patents expired allowing Saive to incorporate many of the 1911 attributes. So we can't call it John's design, but certainly it is a soup of John's genius.
Check out the patent. His high power was striker fired and checkout how the barrel came in and out of battery. Gaston Glock obviously borrowed much from John…..-
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I've cut down frames from full to officers… They don't make an officers 2011 so I've built several officers starting from the full size grip. totally possible… fwiw
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Also I did notice as you stated above with all the WC parts in and the hammer cocked. I could pull the slide back but couldn't really see it making contact with the hammer in the full cock position.
That's the issue then. The Wilson sear is longer than your stock sear. EGW, Wilson Extreme etc.. will all be a little longer but still are in spec. However, your guns slide to frame relationship are out just enough that it can't cock the gun.
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I am sure you are right. You know 1911's inside out and upside down.
It did seem like the disconnecter didn't move quite as much with the all Wilson parts. But it was hard for me to see what was going on. And once I saw the Remington sear would work I went ahead and stoned it just for the fact it was my first time on a 1911 trigger job and I would rather junked the Remington sear first.I totally get it. As long as it's safe and you are happy with the trigger…..nothing else matters.
It's funny when I hear this kind of stuff I want to work on the gun just to figure what is going on……I don't have time to do that……..but I want to. LOL
Glad it worked out for you.
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It probably has nothing to do with the sear. It is the related parts I'm betting.
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What is wrong with the wilson sear?
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Backing out the overtravel screw all the way is often not a good idea at all. Triggers with overtravel screws are not mill spec type triggers with a screw added for adjustment. Often it is possible that if you back out the overtravel screw too far it will allow the trigger bow to actually make contact with the sear spring taking pressure off sear Itself and causing hammer follow. Depending on the trigger it may be fine but often they can cause trouble. You can check that at the same time with the grip safety out though.
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As dolomite said, first thing is the check your sear spring pressure. Just because it's right with one hammer and sear set does not mean that it is OK with another. Should have about 16 ounces of pre-travel and the rest should be on the sear. 3-5 pounds total usually.
It's easy enough to check if it's your disconnector. Remove your grip safety, pull the slide back slightly so that the disconnector/stripper rail is depressing the disconnector. Look at the sear and disconnector and see if there is distance between the bottom of the sear legs and the pad on the disconnect. If so it's not the disconnecter.
I have seen guns where the slide will not push back/down on the hammer far enough to cock it with different sears and hammer combos. So cock the hammer, walk the slide back and see if the slide actually is pushing down on the hammer. It doesn't happen often but it's worth a check.
You also have to make sure that you have enough pre-travel and over travel in your trigger. That can also change with different sear and hammer combinations. If that is not correct you can have all kinds of issues . -
Unless you're planning to keep this gun forever, it will devalue it. I understand the rationale, but I'd just start with another gun without a grip safety.
Or...
I could see why someone might not want to have to completely depress the grip safety to engage the trigger. That could cause a problem in an extreme situation.
It seems to me that any concern with the grip safety could be eliminated by modifying the grip safety to release it's lock with less physical depression of the grip piece.
This is why pinning is often an option for some. To reverse it, all you do is remove the pin and it is back to the way it was originally.
Yes, it is not hard to adjust the grip safety to disengage with very little movement.
Lots of people have trouble with grip safeties even when not in a rush etc. Most issues can be addressed by adjusting the GS to deactivate with less movement or changing to a different kind of GS with a bump.
Kimber folks beware - because of the swartz firing pin block (it operates on the GS), it is not hard to mess up the timing between the GS and the block. The hammer can fall but the firing pin block prevents the gun from going bang. By either changing out the GS or adjusting it to disengage earlier will mess with the timing. Of course pinning it will keep the pin block disengaged too…...
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I want to try and buy a cheap grip safety to try something out. I want to disable my grip safety in my 1911 but I dont want to pin it by drilling the MSH and Grip safety.
I want to try it by cutting off the little arm or tab on the grip safety that sticks in towards the inner workings of the trigger .
Is that how it's done ? Have any of you guys did it ?
Cutting it off will disable the grip safety.
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Absolutely horrible. This is why I carry at church. Always have, always will.
SC law makes carry in church illegal. Yet another mass shooting in a place where law biding permit holders cannot carry. I carry in church too...
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Yep, churches…..
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If your gun will not run with ANY quality magazine (Wilson, Tripp, CM) then it's a gun problem. PERIOD.
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I would recommend black nitride for the M&P.
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The philosophy of liberty is not contingent upon technology. EVER :usa:
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It's a great video, but it's even more simple than that.
First and foremost we know who Madison was, what he thought, and believed.
Second, they can't have it both ways. "The People" was used in the 1st, 2nd, 4th, 9th and 10th amendment. So, does freedom of speech belong only to the state government? Or should only members of the state government be secure in their persons, house papers etc? That of course would be absurd. The 10th is the one that really kills their argument as it refers to both the state and "The People".
Clearly that side relies on a uneducated, misinformed electorate.
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And think how much more he's probably learned in the five years before this thread was resurrected! ;)
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Funny, I didn't notice that. Oh well, he still a goodern! -
Yep, Jeff is a great guy and gunsmith. +1
We hunt together and I consider him one of my best friends. We have a lot in common as he plays guitar and is a good singer too. -
How long does it take to shoot 5 stages plus qualifier?
3-4 hours usually.
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Okay, I might have to commission you!!!
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M&P Shield plus Apex Trigger review
in Gunsmithing & Troubleshooting
Posted · Edited by timcalhoun
It shortened the reset considerably and the break is much cleaner too. Coming from great 1911/2011 triggers I feel that this is totally doable.