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SkWaShDeM

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Posts posted by SkWaShDeM

  1. My boss has changed his mind. Now he wants to go with the PTR 91.

    He needs to shoot both side by side to make up his mind. I've done that and I'm still waffling about which I'd buy if I was in the market for a semi-auto .308. A friend has one of each simply because he couldn't decide which one he liked more.

  2. When I took out my renters insurance policy with Allstate they only asked if I would be having firearms on the premises and how much they were worth because the standard policy only covered up to $3,000 in firearms. I just had to get a separate rider for additional firearms coverage... wasn't that big of a deal. And nothing was ever asked about loaded/unloaded or locked up.

  3. Check the ambulance bay and loading dock entrances next time you have some time to waste at a hospital. Those two entrances are almost never posted, even though visitors often use both of them to enter the building.

    And as said above, the hospital has the post just like any other business, and the signs must be correct. Ghostbusters signs don't count.

    Wellmont has signs posted on some of their facilities, but not all of them. Takoma in Greeneville was not posted yesterday when I was taking my mother some lunch. I was at JCMC last week and did not see any no-carry signs on the main entrance or the ER entrance.

  4. so only a $5 tax? not the $200? how much did the 870 set you back? maybe its more doable than i thought. what makes it an AOW and not an SBS?

    Never having a shoulder stock attached is the short version of what makes it an AOW vs an SBS, someone with more knowledge on the subject can give you a better explanation.

    Last time I saw one in person they were asking about $600 or so for something similar at Big Al's in Greeneville.

  5. That's right--the 3.5 connector is the only difference. I'm not sure why they call it a 3.5, because the 34's trigger is more like 4.5 pounds. It's a little lighter and a lot grittier than my 19's.

    12-15k rounds will do that to any tupperware gun. I've got a 2nd Gen XD that's the same way after nearly 9k rounds. Infinitely better trigger than a gently used 3rd gen a buddy of mine has. Although the trigger on the XD-M I fondled at Gun Depot last Saturday wasn't too shabby for a NIB .40S&W

  6. I was just browsing and happened to notice the sky high price Mahoney's had on the 637. While I was in South Carolina over the weekend I checked prices on those down there as well just for amusement value and the shops around Greenville/Pickens all had them for $459 or so. Mahoney's is just weird I suppose.

  7. So, I was bored over the last two days and wandered around to a few gun shops just to browse. While at the first one, I happened to look at the price tag on a new Smith & Wesson 637. The price surprised me, and gave me an idea of how to pass some more time. I'd go see what the other stores around town were charging for the same gun. Now, this is something of an ongoing process, since I've only been into three shops so far this week. I might check a few others over the weekend or next week since I've got the week off.

    MSRP from S&W's website: $561.00

    Prices I've seen so far:

    Byrds: $409 + tax/tics

    Crowders: $449 + tax/tics

    Mahoneys: $634 + tax/tics :tough:

  8. That usually means steel case and lacquered primers doesn't it?

    Usually, but there are exceptions. For brass cased though, if you can do better than $300/1k, I want to know where, and how much they've got left in stock. I pay $339/1k from Wideners for Priv Partizan, which is brass cased, non-corrosive stuff from Eastern Europe.

  9. Wow... 3 NFA weapons... cha'ching!

    Crowder's is a class 3 dealer in east TN area, but doesn't carry many guns. Last time I was in there he had a p90 and an mp5 available, with a price tag of 20k+ each. ;)

    Tim's usually got a few SBR's in the back room as well, but I wouldn't give Tim any of my hard earned money. You'll save money driving somewhere else, even after you pay $4/gallon.

    Coal Creek Armory in Knoxville had a few Class III items in stock as of two weeks ago when I was in there. Couple of MP5's, an M16, some suppressors, etc.

  10. It's a fun piece to shoot. The usual batch of about half a dozen FTE's or so since it was brand new, but it eventually settled down after about 200 rounds. The trigger's nice and smooth, but I think it's a bit heavy. Nobody really seemed to have any trouble hitting an 8" Shoot-N-See from 25 yards. It's not a 10/22 target rifle... but there is no recoil to speak of, and hardly any muzzle climb, even when you're pulling the trigger as fast as you can. It's an accurate plinker. And it'll probably be quite a bit better with an optical sight.

    I haven't picked up a low profile claw mount and a red dot to put on it yet, but that's on my list of things to do. Along with talking some more with Joe about the best options for what suppressor to use after I get the SBR conversion done.

  11. now don't hold me to this, but I believe if you take the first two numbers and subtract them from 100 it will tell you the year it was made.

    For example the first two serial numbers on my Glenfield Marlin Model 60 is 22.

    Subtract that from 100 and it gives you 78. My rifle was made in 1978 as a matter of fact.

    But I believe I read the subtraction thing somewhere else as well. Now I don't know how you account for one made in the current century.

    Subtracting from 100 still gives you the year. They switched the serial number system in 2000. Brand new Model 60's have serial numbers beginning with 9X------, as opposed to pre-2000 models like mine, which starts with 14.

    As for the last round bolt hold open, I think we can safely assume it was added sometime between 1978 and 1986. Since Mike's '78 doesn't have one, but my '86 does.

    You can also call Marlin customer service between 9am and 5pm EST and ask them to tell you when your rifle was made, you just provide the serial number to the nice American on the other end of the phone.

  12. If you're buying a complete rifle in one go, either of the Bushmaster Varmint rifles should do nicely, I think both have a 20" barrel option. If you're going to piece it together yourself, well... we're liable to start an entire thread hijacking debate on .204 Ruger vs .223 Remington before we even get to what manufacturer to shop at for the upper.

    Rightwinger speaks smartness and truthiness. The trigger on a varmint rifle is where you want to spend considerable time, thought, and money.

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