hardknox00001
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Posts posted by hardknox00001
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Other; please explain
No impulse buys, you'll get hosed.
If I see something that I might want, I get the specs (what is it, who makes it, accessories, etc.) and what they want for it and leave.
I will then go somewhere (home, office, library, trusted gun store, etc.) and do research (internet, asking questions to an expert) on it and find out exactly what it is and what it is worth in its condition as applicable to the item in question. If the pawn shop is in a decent price range, you have some haggle room and can proceed with negotiations. If you know what real world pricing is for what it is, you now know when to walk away and when to jump on it.
Pawn shops are experts in buying low and selling high, or they won't be in business long. With that in mind, you know going in that they have some wiggle room, how much depends on how they did on the front end, and they won't tell you.
If you have a "favorite" pawn shop, even if you don't buy anything for a while, going in and becoming familiar to the staff and building a repore with them always helps on getting a deal later down the road.
I have bought stuff from pawn shops at a good/great price, and have walked away from deals that weren't so good.
Sorry for rambling................
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I spent a year in college working in the Maytag cooking appliances R&D lab. Ranges are quite simple. Don't sweat blowing your house up. While that potential does exist, a little common sense and good ventillation go a long way. We only almost blew the building up one time while I worked there....
As stated, step 1 is to purge the lines. Fire up all 4 top burners and run them on high until they all run steady for a minute or two.
What type of igniter do you have? By your description, I assume it's a ceramic glow plug. If it's glowing hot, it's working properly. There's a thermostat next to it that verifies it's hot before turning the gas on to the burner. You should be able to hear the valve click when it comes on and it should only take a few seconds for the igniter to get hot.
If the valve doesn't click, stick a voltmeter on the wires to the valve. If the voltage doesn't change when the igniter gets hot, the thermostat on the igniter is bad. If it does, the valve is bad.
The fasteners that hold the igniter on will be a PITA to remove. All the heat cycles ruins them. Replace with quality stainless steel fasteners. A little high-temp anti-seize helps too. Take the bottom out of the range so you can access the burner/ignitor, the screws that hold it in are probably under it, in the drawer.
This
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I do when I remember. Of course, I accidentally left it running for about 4 hours one evening because I forgot about it... Whoops - but at least it started the next day.
Hahahahaha. I thought it was SOP to leave it running 24/7 anyway. That's what you would think if you saw what goes on around here.
I work on signs, so I am around restaurants and the like alot. Over the years, I have noticed patrol cars running in the parking lot for no apparent reason while LEO was eating lunch. Seems like alot of wasted money to me but, what do I know.
I don't even know why I thought of that, and why I even bothered to post that. Gotta love staying up late...................
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A quick way to locate the current drain is to disconnect the negative cable and connect a volt/ohm meter set to the amp setting connected between the battery neg post and the cable and observe how many amps are being pulled with everything shut off then began pulling the fuses one at a time until you locate the offending circuit.
This is a good idea. This will defininately help narrow the search, point in right direction.
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An even easier (and less permanent) option is the battery disconnect knob that MCSCOTT suggested. I was looking at this one - BATTERY DISCONNECT SWITCHES - JCWhitney
It has a 15 amp bypass to allow the clock to keep settings, etc. For my issue, it seems like this would defeat the purpose. I reckon I could install the disconnect knob without the bypass. It's rated at 125 amps. I figured it all up and all the aftermarket doodads running at once should be about 75 amps at the most (yeah, there's a lot of crap on the car). That'd leave about 50 amps for the vehicle itself. What kind of amperage does the average car without aftermarket crap use?
EDIT: A deeper search into that product suggests that it is rated for 125A continuous, 500A peak. I think this would work. Any naysayers? Please feel free to jump in and keep me from screwing something up!
The big load that a car pulls normally (ie, not accessorized heavily) is when it starts. Once it starts, the alternator powers everything with the battery as a backup. This is proven that when somebody accidentally leaves the headlights on and drains the battery, a jump start gets the alternator going and as the person will drive around for a while, the battery will recover its charge.
As far as the disconnect goes that MSCOTT links to, that would work but only if you screwed that knob completely out. Remember you have a drain somewhere that runs you out of juice and leaving that 15 amp "memory" power source in line doesn't stop the rundown leak. To stop the leak, you must turn the source off completely.
As far as the amperage rating, without testing the load and seeing what everything is pulling, we can't really say. However, I am like you and would think just off my head that that would be big enough. Somebody with a DC amperage clamp meter should be able to test what your pulling very easily.
What is a clamp meter you say?????
This;
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I'm thumbnailing, so some thought is in process as typing is occurring......................
Something like this is simple in that you intall the switch inline with positive battery cable. I have seen switches like this in local parts houses, these are sort of common. I found this link by googling "12v master switch".
Mustang Master Disconnect Relocation Battery Switch at AmericanMuscle.com - Free Shipping!
It has two studs. Connect battery to one side, vehicle to other, that's it. You would have to modify the positive battery cable somewhere convienient by cutting it in half and soldering on some bigger ring terminals and screwing them down on the studs. Probably would want to mount the switch in a plastic electrical box for insulatory
considerations on the switches exposed studs, which would allow for screwing/strapping the whole mess down to something possibly. Too bad your over there, if you were over here I could whip this up in less than an hour if I had all the parts in front of me............Edit - If you decide to go with the switch idea, just make sure that the amp rating of the switch is over what the vehicle will pull (starting and when all lights, sirens, a/c, t.v., coffee maker, donut warmer, etc is running) or the switch will melt.......................
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Crazy the way the whole gun looks warped...
I looked at that too but I figure it had something to do with the action of the hammer and start of recoil in the hands.
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I found this pic on coltforum.com. Thought I would copy and paste here for your enjoyment. Hammer down, battery still closed, bullet ~ 1 inch forward of barrel.
Disclaimer: I had nothing to do with the pic, I just found it. I am not attempting to claim it in any sort of way to improve my "coolness" quotient
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My wife needs that done, but if she ever got her eyes fixed, I'd be fired................
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And air holes, of course...
You left out the remote and beer
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maybe a joke about a cat
I don't know any. I was hoping you would educate me.
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Before it gets locked
I think some of the previous posters who weren't so nice -
and obviously did not have the any/all of the facts -
and were quick to condemn Mr. Hillis and his business practices without said facts -
have something they need to say to the man...................................
edit - and I am ashamed to see that nobody in that category has not already done so......................
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to be honest I was kind of disappointed that thread did not have a cat joke in the op
Like what?
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Something or other Hooker wasn't it?
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Hmm. This took a......different direction I wasn't expecting, albeit not surprised.Tangents man, it's all about tangents.
Or in this particular case, its all about the angle of the dangle
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Hey, he looks familiar..........could it be............naw it couldn't could it? You decide
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I voted for the Remmy for selfish reasons. Like you, I have pistols. Like you, I have shotguns. I don't have any rifles other than a little ole armscor ak-47 (sorta look like) .22.
Me want rifle, must have rifle.
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tell your wife this is what you think when you hear pole cat, the latter might get you in sound trouble though.
If this pole cat showed up at my house, there would be a cat fight...........................
Worse part about that is that I have a bad habit of picking up the language of whoever I'm hangin out withI've caught myself when dealing with oriental people slipping into choppy english, incomplete sentences, etc. just as they speak to me...............
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I was born and raised in Atlanta but, I had to learn to translate a few things when I came to TN and married my wife. For instance:
wasper = wasp
hosepipe = garden hose or hose
pole cat = skunk ( she thinks that cause I had never heard that before her is extremely funny)
and everytime I hear "ain't got no" I go cross-eyed
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Man, just finished the first hour. That brought tears to my eyes
The tribute hour was in that catagory as well at times. It did a good job though.
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I thought all defenders came with night sights. My favorites are meprolight tru dots. I have had great customer service from tru glo night sights too. I don't like how their tfo sights stick up on the frame.
The Talo night defenders might but, the regular defenders do not.
Don't try to do yourself. Any gun shop will put them on for about $30I'm with you on this, I'd probably just screw it up and hurt myself in the process.
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I have one of those... I bought one and that is what I filled it up with the first time... But I'm calling the dealer and making a Service Appointment for when I get back and preferably, immediately. If it's under warranty, they can fix it.
Roger, A/C repair service suggestions terminated, squawk VFR, Frequency change is approved, good day......................
considerations on the switches exposed studs, which would allow for screwing/strapping the whole mess down to something possibly. Too bad your over there, if you were over here I could whip this up in less than an hour if I had all the parts in front of me............
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New to me Norinco 1911A1
in Handguns
Posted
Ignore all advice above. That gun is dangerous and will get you hurt. You should proceed immediately to a meeting place to be determined and give that thing to me for safe disposal.................
It's for your own safety...........................really