Obiwan
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Posts posted by Obiwan
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Beating the elderly, women or children to death are cases that can probably only be remedied with capital punishment.
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Man, sorry to hear/see this.
Looks like someone hit you full force! I doubt that was just from backing out and hitting you. He must have come barreling into that lot. Or your car doesn't weigh much, or you can't park straight. :) Based on the debris, I guess your only consolation is that the offender got messed up as well.
Did you check if there was any CCTV footage of that lot available?
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Maybe they were plan clothe police officers on a stake out too. If they were actually state workers I think they would have been missed by superiors or like a few mentioned, they do have phones and radio's to call for assistance if were really broke down.............jmho
Or NSA or FBI... Notice how small the TDOT logo is. It's off-center too. Seems whiter than the door itself, like it hasn't faded in. Looks like one giant magnetic sticky.
You should have walked over, offer assistance, and check out the truck. Or call Metro PD and report a suspicious vehicle and see how that pans out. :) Nothing like ruining the day of FBI agents on a stake-out by surrounding them with weapons-drawn DEA agents. ("There's a drug deal happening in that, and i heard shots" ..lol)
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We wake up for a bit but after things calm down we forget, That seems to be the cycle.
Yeah. We need to stop doing that. (I wonder if those cycles align ... politically.... :) )
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I am really surprised that we have not had an attack like Paris yet ( I don't think the California attack is close ) . Any loss of life is terrible but I think we have got off easy so far. I think it's only a matter of time before they hit us hard. As I have said before it's going to be another event like 9-11 that wakes us up.
There were events before 9-11, and we stayed asleep. If 9-11 hasn't woken us up yet, do you really think another will? How hard do we have to get hit before we finally do something about it? (for starters, border security, oh, and not training a bunch of middle eastern non-pilots on how to fly airliners...)
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Weird. Looking at the pictures, they look the same. You'd have to know the Jeep to recognize the sides I guess. Mine is a literal box that drops and bolts in. What is in the Jeep that makes that different/not possible I wonder?
It's not impossible. I believe the Tuffy console is a full drop-in. Perhaps they just did that to maximize the internal space? Or ease of install? In order to allow access to the 12V socket, they could have just cut a hole or slot into the side (like the Tuffy).
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What? No it isn't. It is a fully enclosed box. I've got one in my Tundra. Google image one, it'll take you two seconds.
For the Tundra, sure. They have several models that are full enclosures. Sadly, not the one for Wranglers. Found out about it from reading Jeep forums. You can also see it in the actual product picture on their web sites.
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And just for some entertainment:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D33T4GOtB-U
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3p5KUNfDG0
There are plenty of others. Bottom line is, do your research and examine a safe yourself (or consult with a professional) when choosing a safe.
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Eh, the drawer fit in my 2012 :)
In the F150 the Console was the way to go because it was much larger. The center console in the JK is so small I don't know if there is much benefit there other than the fact that it would be more readily accessible. I'd have to weigh space vs. accessibility in this case.
Hm... you had aftermarket seats in yours, didn't you? Maybe that allowed the drawer. I checked under my seat and there's no way to install the drawer. (Edit: It fits 2011+ Wrangler Unlimited, but not 2011+ two-doors).
I looked at other options too, like the GunVaults, VLine and Titan, but besides space constraints, I'd prefer something more concealed, that doesn't scream "smash my window and grab my safe". So with the drawer being a no-go, I'm left with the center console. It just needs to hold the gun+holster and a couple radios.
Unless there are more comments to this thread saying "Go Tuffy", I'll probably be ordering the ConsoleVault next week.Another edit: Looks like ConsoleVault is just a lid with two sides, not a full enclosure, so I'm gonna pass on that. Tuffy is an option, but prevents use of the factory tray. I think I'm gonna get a couple smaller ones (Titan and VLiine) and find a place to mount one of them somewhere. Will required some custom fab'ing, but that's fun to do.
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I had a Console Vault in our Raptor. Very nice. I happen to still have the Tuffy concealment drawer from my JKU too! ;)
And between those two, which do you prefer or would you recommend? :) (Besides offering to sell me your Tuffy :) )
Edit: Never mind... you said "drawer" not "console". The Tuffy drawer doesn't fit under 2011+ afaik.
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You can't go wrong with these guys if you have a Jeep:
Tuffy Security ProductsYeah, that's what us Jeepers look at first.
I'm torn between the Console Vault and the Tuffy. It seems the Console Vault is higher gauge steel, but I'm not sure that matters if thieves are able to pry the box out of the console and open the vault in the safety of their lair anyway. For casual smash and grab, both are probably on par.
I could use some help deciding between the two. I'm leaning towards the console vault. What are your thoughts between these two, or how did you decide when you got yours?
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I believe that it's Gypsum; not concrete.
It probably is in cheap safes, where it acts purely as a fire barrier. But good safes have a concrete composite with abrasive stuff in it that also acts as an entry barrier against tools.
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I never tried to shoot it from a standing position, but I did several times with an AR50. Ya know, just to prove to newbies that it wouldn't 'kill' them from the recoil.
Not that they are "soft shooters", but....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pAW3dlTMv6g
:)
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Fire protection depends on the safe's rating. Regular house fires can reach above 1000 degrees, so time is important. Safes typically carry a "torch and tool" as well as a "fire" rating (which I believe is the time it takes for regular paper to ignite). Good safes are usually more than just steel. They should also have a layer that looks like concrete but is very tough. That's both an insulating layer against fire as well as prevent the torch from cutting in.
The safe I have, and nowadays store my guns in, was bought around 2000 or so. My need for it back then was for storage of forensic evidence (hard drives as well as documents and other media, like CD's). It has 3 cubic feet of room and I believe is rated at 2 hours "torch and tool" and 2 hours fire. It has steel as well as that concrete type barrier. I think it was around $500 or so back then.
Can someone get in? Sure. Any safe can be opened, given enough time. Or if someone knows about safes (in essence, is a professional safe cracker) or knows/has the "cheat sheet". (there's often a weak spot, one precise way of "attacking" a safe).
When choosing a safe, pay attention not to just the size and features, but the ratings as well. That's the time the safe will keep your valuables safe. Any time above that, and all bets are off.
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No matter what your cell provider tells you & how much you pay....it won't work in Europe.
My provider here is T-Mobile. I had a global roaming plan at some time in the past. However, it is expensive when using it. My phone is a quad-band GSM phone, so it works in Europe just fine. Last time I was over there, I took my phone with me but bought a pre-paid SIM chip over there and used that in my phone. Same phone, different number. Local calling is much more affordable that way. Heck, I think even calling the US was cheaper. (I mostly txt'ed my wife though).
Anyway, if your phone can handle European frequencies, you can use it. But your provider may not provide coverage or only for horribly expensive rates. Get a more affordable pre-paid chip over there. (and if you're phone doesn't work on European frequencies, I'm sure you can probably rent one).
Or, if you are not going for work, simply leave your phone at home, disconnect and enjoy your vacation. :)
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Had one for about 6 years. Gave up even after seeing videos. My 6 year old son has fun with it for a few minutes then gives it a toss.
Well, if you want to improve the fun factor, take it/them to the backyard or your nearest outdoor shooting range. I bet a center hit will be spectacular. :D
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Only 4 algorithms? Geeshh... Back in 1980 or 81 or whenever it came out and the craze started, it was like a 5 or 6 page cheat sheet full of moves. I think my fastest time back then was 7 minutes or so, with 10-15 minute average. (That's for the standard 3x3, not all those different funky styles that came out shortly after)
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Well, if you are knocked over your head and attacked by multiple thugs, I would think they can take whatever they want, including shoes'n'socks!
Aside from being pummeled to the ground, I've been wondering how much safer concealed carry is. If you carry under the shirt at 4 or 5 o'clock, and someone sees the belt clip and realizes you're carrying concealed, an attacker (even a single one), might be able to rip the shirt up and get a hold of the gun before you're able to react.
I'd like to think I would feel that and be able to swivel around, landing an elbow, then fist, then a barrel into the attackers face, but I'm not sure I'd be able to recognize what's happening, stop what I'm doing, and react quickly enough before the thug has his hand on the grip. I think that requires Bruce Lee type reflexes. And I don't know if I'd want to have a holster with a snap under the shirt. Seems like too many steps to jump through during a draw. (consider unsnapping a canted gun at 4-5 position... uhg).
So I think there is no 100% safe way to carry. You need to be aware and prepared. I guess it doesn't matter if it's a gun or your wallet. You carry it, you gotta guard it, but there's still the chance of someone snatching it.
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Haha... that's awesome. Nice video work too.
Not California-legal though. :)
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Guess I'll have to read the manual closely for advise against dry firing on my RAMI decocker, I've skimmed it before but don't recall any warning against. I don't make a big habit of dry firing any of my guns much at all anyway. As to what the name SIG or CZ means to me? Quality all metal guns right up there with Beretta ect. I really like my RAMI a lot over the dozen or so guns I've had or have, same to be said for the SIG 938 too....
No need. The RAMI manual does not caution again dry-fires. In fact, on page 9 it even suggests it in this section:
Unloading
Always make sure the pistol is pointed in a safe direction.
- Remove the magazine.
- Draw back the slide and verify the last cartridge has been extracted from the chamber and ejected.
- Left the slide snap fully forward.
- Depress the trigger (dry fire).
Again, doing that once in a while is not a problem. The problem is repeated dry-firing, like during practices.
I would think most of us don't let the slide snap fully forward on an unloaded chamber either. We gently ride it forward because we love our guns, right? We should extend the same courtesy to our firing pins. :)
BTW: From what I hear, the Beretta manual does include a caution about dry-firing. I don't have a manual to verify that, though.
Oh, and yes. The RAMI rocks. :)
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Impossible to police. Lived in a town overseas that banned advertisements for dogs, as dogs were considered farm animals not suitable for urban areas. Therefore, the newspaper was full of ads for "fuzzy pets." Expect something similar for Facebook. No advertisements for guns? How about advertisements for "personal protective devices?"
Hahah... that's great.
For sale: 5.9" long thingy thrower with 9mm hole. Has three glow-in-the-dark spots. Customized with brown, arboreal hand-holds. Comes with two refill packs for 15 non-squares. Will throw in a epidermal-based holder. Includes bristles-on-a-stick, manual, and the original plastic case.
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Last time heard someone say don't dry fire a CZ, they were talking about the CZ52 and some of the early CZ70 models. Metallurgy has improved a lot since then. Nonetheless, I'd be interested to hear what might make CZ more prone to dry fire damage than another pistol.
The "issue" is that CZ's, from the factory, come with two roll pins to retain the firing pin. Repeated use will weaken and break the roll pin.
Here are a couple pictures:
Replacing the pins with solid pins will help. But again, you still have parts of the firing pin banging on stuff it wasn't designed to do. No harm in doing it occasionally, but why take the chance? Use a snap cap. Or use a rubber O-ring on the back of the slide. Or anything else that will take the impact instead of the firing pin.
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Uhm, it's my understanding that you should avoid dry-firing most if not all guns. Firing pins are designed to impact the primer. In absence of a round in the chamber, something has to impact something else. Either the firing pin return spring is going to compress beyond its designed travel/limit, or the firing pin will hit the end of the channel (which may be okay if it is designed to take that impact). Or, as in case of CZ's, the retaining pin.
CZ's come from the factory with a roll pin there, not a solid pin. It is the constant impact by the firing pin that will mash and eventually destroy the roll pin.
You can either upgrade that part to a solid pin, in which case the energy still has to go somewhere, which means that while the pin might be fine, the firing pin is now taking the beating, or simply use a snap cap.
The basic problem is the same with other guns. Without a primer, the energy of the firing pin moving forward is going somewhere else.
It doesn't mean the firing pin is going to break on a single dry fire. It's the repeated dry firing that is causing damage. Use a snap cap for your dry firing practices.
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NRA Dues Going Up 2016
in 2A Legislation and Politics
Posted
Only one week remaining. If you haven't renewed yet, or wanted to become a member in the first place, you only have a few more days left before dues go up. (Unless they postpone it again...)
Clicky-clicky
(I upgraded to Lifetime status yesterday)