TNFlyer
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Posts posted by TNFlyer
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Here are some more awesome pics (in a different sort of way). I saw these while navigating around the OP's link.
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If you're USP is a v1 why not just carry it cocked and locked, since the decocker is also a safety? This would give you the consistency of trigger pull I'm assuming your looking for. Just modify your range sessions to reflect the condition you carry, mix in some dry practice and the muscle memory will be there to switch the safety off if ever the time comes you need it.
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Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
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When I went to the Smyrna Airshow earlier this year DHS was there including TSA agents. Although, you payed or presented your tickets as you drove through the gates there was no form of screening. We just parked and walked in. Inside is where I saw the TSA walking around showing a presence, I never saw them stop or talk to anyone.
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Keep your eye on gun-deals.com - User-Submitted Gun & Ammunition Deals
You can usually find some decent deals on there.
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Well I got the Kindle, and I'm gonna start with The Gun. I appreciate everyone's reply, you guys have definitely given me a great reading list that will last me for a while.
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Thanks for all the recommendations. Now just gotta decide which one to start with. I do like the Kindle idea I have avoided it for a while, but I think it my have its place in my library.
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Awesome guys! Great list of books. Still gonna be a tough decision, but at least now I've got some direction. Also, does anyone know if there are any bookstores in the Nashville area that carry any of Jeff Coopers books? I did just re-read The Art of the Rifle and he has a great writing style. I wouldn't mind reading some more of his work.
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As the title says what have you read lately that was enjoyable. I was just at the book store and couldn't decide on a book.
I will be at the hospital all weekend for the birth of my new son or daughter and I need something for the down time. My most recent reads were One Second After, Seal Team Six, and Fighter Pilot to give you an idea what I enjoy reading.
Thanks
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Yeah, about the only thing I had to think hard about was the shell elevator or whatever Browning calls it. Otherwise, it was not to bad for a gun designed 114 years ago. Thanks again fellas!
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Where are you in TN? I think I have a book at home with detailed breakdown instructions and pictures. I am south of nashville and work in brentwood.Remember to take out the bolt return spring before trying to pull the bolt. To do that you need to pull the stock. Also becareful with the sear and trigger. Make sure it goes back together in the same configuration as it was when you take it out.They are neat old guns. One time I was cleaning one and the back of the receiver was full of feathers and mud but it still shoot
zgun,
Thanks for the offer I just got the receiver apart. If I can't get it back together I may take you up on that offer. Once, I pulled the screws out of the receiver it was pretty intuitive, so it should go back easily as long as the trigger group is cooperative.
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Yeah they got to come out to get the bolt out. Since its new to you, I'd want to start with the a clean firearm and a complete tear down, clean, oil, reassemble is the only way to get that. Its really not too bad. I'm not sure instructions are really needed. Rather I think being observant to what you are doing and taking the time to distinguish right from left screws, pins, etc will go a long way. When I'm tearing a new to me firearm down for the first time thats how I do it. Hell, I've been know to draw pictures of really odd firearms to get a half way decent schematic for re-assemble. The trigger assembly is the hardest part of those firearms and they aren't bad honestly. But then I have torn down darn near 50 of them by now so maybe I'm off here.
So, if I pull those three screws out I'm not going to have stuff fly all over, and is that my starting point? If I can get a starting point I should be able to figure the rest out.
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http://stevespages.com/pdf/browning_auto5.pdf Of any use?
Thanks thats pretty much what I have already and it details the removal of the fore end and barrel. But, I need to get the bolt out of the receiver cause there is lots of accumulated grit and grime in there. There are three pairs of screws on the side of the receiver, but I'm not sure if that thats the ticket to take it down as far as I want to.
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I can't point you to disassembly instructions but I will advise you to get some decent flat head screwdrivers (gunsmith screwdrivers) for those narrow slotted screw heads. If you don't, you will regret it! Other than that it isn't too bad of a tear down, build up. Clean the mag tube real good once you get the barrel/springs off. Use a low abrasive scotch brite pad and "scrub" in a front to rear direction. NOT circular! Circular will increase friction and is not advised.
Thanks for the tip on scrubbing the mag tube. And, I know what you mean about the screwdrivers, I acquired a set of gunsmithing screwdrivers a while back for all my projects.
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I've got a Belgian made Browning A5. And, the gentleman who owned previously used it a lot, but not much in the last few years. Due to that it has a lot of dirt and grime built up in the receiver and on the bolt. The manual is not any help on stripping the receiver for cleaning. Can anyone point me in the right direction to get this shotgun cleaned up and functioning properly?
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Happy BD!
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Miller Synchrowave 200 does TIG and stick welding. Best all around welder on the market, IMHO.
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While I've never been to it Horton has a skeet range. Our next camping trip will probably be there to take advantage of it.
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i was given a bunch of shotgun reloading stuff. i will pretty much get rid of everything but the presses, might get rid of one of them. if you reload shotgunshells, come take a look. there are powders, wads, and all shorts of other stuff. must be picked up at my shop in madison, i'm not going to spend $50 to ship this stuff. lol
I'd like to be next on the list.
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TN:_______________
In the "old days" (...before us rustic rednecks learned about headspace gages...), we did the thing that Dolomite recomends. We simply neck sized the brass that we used; never bumping the shoulder back. The "ultimate" fit for any rifle cartrige is the neck size option. The way we did it is exactly as he explained. We took a round and resized it only enough for the case head to sit exactly flush with the specific rifle chamber doin a careful "bump back" of the case neck to shoulder. This is, indeed, the ultimate fitting of brass to a specific rifle chamber method. There is none better. This is the exact method that the benchrest shooters used to use.
Problems come in when ya have two different rifles chambered for the same caliber. In my case, we had two 300 win mags. ....one chamber was deeper than the other (...this is not unusual. Chambering reamers both vary in acceptable manufacturing tolerances and wear from use; giving these slight but troublesome varriations in diameter and length....). This caused us to bump the shoulder back for both of 'em; loading for the "short chamber".
We would be lucky to get five or six firings using this system with this "hard kicker". The brass would grow and need a re-trim. The extra material we were trimming of was stretching from the base of the brass (...what's the reason for dolomites excellent instruction on inspectinb brass looking for this thin spot...).
The bottom line:
...If ya got one rifle; neck sizing works just fine. With two; it will be a miracle if a neck sized round for one rifle will work thru the action of a second identical caliber. (...Remember, this is for bolt guns...).
...The problem i see with neck sizing for semi autos (...ars...) is the problem of long/short chambering and a tight chamber vs a "loose" chamber.
...I would much perfer to size the 223 brass down to minimum size (...that is measured by the case gage...) for reliability of functioning for weapons that absolutely need to be reliable and fire every time ya pull the trigger.
...For the match shooting guys, who need to get the absolute max accuracy out of reloaded ammunition and where reliability of function is secondary; the neck and chamber sizing option is an excellent (...and the ultimate...) method of tailoring ammo to a specific rifle.
Hope this helps.
leroy
leroy, thanks for the reply.
I am somewhat familiar in theory of what you are talking about. And, I understand the need for semi-auto rifle like an AR to be resized different than a bolt gun.
I am loading for two AR's chambered in .223 and have been full length resizing them. But, say I take a case fired from each rifle measure both cases figure out which chamber is smaller, use a full length sizing die setup to only set back the shoulder .003 from the measurement on the smaller chamber. How would this be different than what Dolomite was saying other than being one process instead of two? Would I still be working the brass harder than by doing two separate operations?
So I guess what my question is if I followed Dolomites process of neck sizing then body sizing which gage would be of most benefit?
Hornady Lock-N-Load Headspace Gage 5 Bushing Set with Comparator - MidwayUSA
or
L.E. Wilson Case Length Headspace Gage 223 Remington - MidwayUSA
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To add to Dolomites post a bit; we used to have this problem pretty regularly when shooting the 300 win mags. The problem is pushing the shoulder of the case back too much; which is easy to do with full resizing like ya need to do with a 223. Ive found that the best investment ya can make with bottleneck cartridges (...esp the 223...) is a case gage. Link here: L.E. Wilson Case Length Headspace Gage 223 Remington - MidwayUSA .
You can adjust your resizing die correctly with the gage. It will stop the case stretching and splitting problems. Just follow the instructions with the case gage and carefully adjust your resizing die to set the case head dead flush with the top of the gage (...or a couple or 3 thousands below flush... -- i think the spec is minus 10...) ; the see if it will chamber in your rifle. If not, adjust the die down a bit more and recheck. That makes the case fit the chamber within specs and will cut down on the stretching and case failures.
Hope this helps.
leroy
So after reading this post and another I got to researching this issue a little bit more. From what I understand the Wilson and other gages like it are just measuring standard chamber size. But, with the Hornady Lock N Load headspace gages you could measure your fired brass setup your resizing die for whatever amount you wanted your shoulder set back. I hope my line of thinking is correct. I'm fairly new to reloading and have been picking up bits and pieces here and there. But, it seems like with the Hornady gage you could get a better fit in your particular chamber for the case. Although your reloads may not work in someone elses gun.
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While I'm not against carrying at work or in your car at work, I do not support any legislation infringing on others property rights. We have so many laws taking our freedoms away and while this one seems like a good idea it takes someone else's rights away. However, I do not believe an employer should be able to search your personal property either.
Any law passed should be one granting more freedom and not infringing on our rights. We should be looking at a law that prohibits intrusive employers from searching our personal property (ie. your car) and infringing on our rights.
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What is the Best 4x4 Driver/Beater for under $4k
in General Chat
Posted
Something like this would be my choice.
85 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60