FX4F150

With Laminate, you CANNOT glue or fasten down. Laminate is meant to float with 1/8"-1/4" expansion on all sides. If you have a warped piece of laminate, it is a defect and SHOULD be replaced. Laminate was manufactured as an engineered product specifically NOT to warp, cup or bow. So, you could have a buckle in the laminate or a flex in the subfloor. IF you can visually see a 'hump' or 'rise' in the floor, yet the subfloor seems to be flat, i would think your laminate is buckled because there isn't enough expansion. If you can't see a 'hump' or 'rise', then you might have an issue with the subfloor. 3 fixes: 1, replace floor. 2, pull quarter-round (or finish molding) to check for proper expansion gap. 3, would be to check subfloor from underneath as suggested and possible inject a 'filler', NOT GLUE. Sorry, i don't post much (at all really), but i offer advice when i can. BTW-15 years in flooring.

Hey guys, I am in the process of purchasing a new 1911 and i need a few things done to it and am looking for the right gunsmith to do the work.  Do we have any vendors on here that do amazing (trustworthy) work?  I am looking for someone who can do frame modifications and of course action work.

I know this is late on this topic but do you guys know if the flash hider is pinned or welded? If i buy one how hard would it be to change the gas block so i could put a mid length rail?

I figured it would be simple for some. I'm not certain if i trust myself enough to keep it from the dummy marks...but gotta break it in someday. So, i can get a low pro block and middy free float rail and it should clear the block?

I thought heavily about going to a mid length gas, but for the money, this will work perfectly. I thought for certain we had SEVERAL members here who bought this rifle and would chime in.

Heck i recieved my "yellow slip" the same day. Then i went to DMV, paid my dues and waited FOREVER!!

Ok fellas, After long deliberations and reading through all of the posts, i decide to hunt and buy one of these highly talked about toys. Now i need stuffs! Without ordering, does anyone know where i could pick up a 22 conversion kit so me and my boys can play this weekend? Also, after reading a few other posts, i noticed that there were a few veterans ,to ARs, who like to tinker. I have several tools that i bought for my last AR to take it apart to better understand the rifle, but i am not certain i want to venture into this one like that and i want to change a few things and need advice. One big question..i want to change the front sight/block to a low pro block and change the rail from carbine to mid length. I am pretty certain this is possible, but i want to get verification from any "experts", "verterans", or "now-it-alls". Basically anyone other than me.

Very true. I wish we had a Gander in Nashville. I would probably be one of those impulse buyers.

If we had ONE LGS, just one that would match ANY of their LOCAL competitors, it could make a few others honest with their pricing and possibly change the direction. Ok, some would lose money on a few hanguns, but volume will make up a little.

Volzfan..I'm with ya! Our difference is that i CAN find what i like in the store. I deal with a lot of inventory and inventory sitting on shelves cost money no matter is that inventory is already paid. One would think or like to think that a LGS would try to move a product especially if someone is there to buy. Of course we always refer back to volume. I know in my case, we get a better price on our products because we deal in volume, so if our LGS buys one gun at X dollars, someone like buds is paying >X. But sometimes you lose on one and make it up on others. We have a few LGS (none mentioned) that are much higher becaue of their location in Franklin (ooops). (But they do have almost everything)

Ok, guys. This post is not to make anyone upset, but rather try to understand handgun pricing in our local stores. Some of our vendors may chime in. That would be great too. Obviously, some of our local stores can't offer the best prices because of their size and staff, but why are some of them so much higher than their neighbor? I am will to purchase from a local store to support our community, but when some of the prices are +$100 in differences, i want that savings in my pocket. My question is, at what point in what place should you TRY to negotiate during a purchase? I know you guys know this frustration. What do you do? Example: I called a few local stores to locate a Sig. Found one online in the meantime. Checked the MSRP also. MSRP is $1249, local stores between $999 and $1099. Online (at one place only), $849. That's at least $150 savings.

Thanks for the info hous95. I hava Springfield Loaded and a Longslide, and a few others, but i really want to go 4" for carry. And i recently learned about a Sig "fastback" (bobtail) that i am looking at. Althought the SW1911SC has is beat in weight. This is gonna be tough.

I am planning to hand down all of my toys, but not for them to be able to sell. They could if they chose, but more of a family item. Any specific reason to go with Colt, besides name and lifetime no questions asked warranty? I think with any 1911, depending on the environment, there will be issues. So, that being said, i am NOT against Colt at all, but it's like Chevy owners or Ford owners. They like them only because they have one and it's not failed them yet, but they break down too! I have always wanted a Colt for that "nostalgic" reason of history, but i can't find any other reason. They are just as over priced as the others. I AM definately willing to spend money on a great carry that could save my life or my families life.

I have actually heard about the holsters being a PITA. I was looking in to a Dan CCO from one of our members, but i cant get to him. Too far. So i am looking into the next best one. Smith is a VERY reliable company and so is Sig and yes the Sigs are a little square, but i don't think anyone will argue too much when it comes to a 1911, they are are elegant and sleek. I'm finding it very difficult to spend $1000+ because of all of the decisons. I also have 3 sons that i will want to hand these guns down to, so, no offense to anyone, but i want something nice.

Ok Fellas...I don't want to get in to the battle of necessarily which is better but maybe why. Everyone's trigger figer is different and it may possibly come down to looks and feel. I am looking for a possible 1911 carry. Something in a 4"(ish) that will be comfortable. My frame doesn't warrant the carry of a full size. Now, i know that the Smith is lighter, but does that make it better? The Sig is cheaper, does that make it better? Both are fairly refined. I would love to hear from you 1911 owners as to why or why not. These are all opinions, i know. Another factor will be price, but if the Smith is that much nicer, i'll pay it.