vujade

will do; thanks!

Does anyone here have experience working with S&W customer service? I purchased the gun used; I won't have receipts/proof of purchase, etc. Also, is an FFL needed when sending/receiving a firearm that goes to repair?

Moderators: would it be best to move this topic/thread to the gunsmithing or handguns area?

With your comment, I realize that I didn't also! I could have swore that my crosshairs WAY cleared it! I didn't compensate that the bore line was below the sight line.

After some disappointments at the range today (see my posts regarding my chrony and a 1911), I did end on a good note. I made some more loads with that Long Range Match surplus powder (41.9 to 43.4) and I was once again impressed: Keep in mind that I am now hating my 1911 and at about the same time, just shot my chrony so I was a bit upset. I didn't wait between shots (it was cold today anyway so the barrel seemed fine). I did still do the 'round robin' method with shooting these groups. I fired 3 with my favorite varget load and all 3 hit into a group .400 inches. (not my best but like i said, I was really upset). I then proceeded to fire the above groups. Like my first test above, powder weight didn't seem to have a big difference. These groups rival those from my Varget loads. I'm going to make more 42.2 loads now...

So... 2 options I think: 1. send back to S&W. I have a 686 that I can get 2-3 inch groups with cheap factory ammo at the same distance/bench. So I know they make good stuff. The reviews on this seem to indicate I should be getting 2-3 inches easily. 2. The gun looks fine but I don't have a lot of experience with a 1911. What I did does indicate that a tighter bushing can solve many accuracy issues. I took some measurements with my caliper: Outside dimensions of the barrel: .578 Inside dimensions of the bushing: .612 Outside dimensions of the bushing: .697 Inside dimensions of the slide hole thing where the barrel/bushing fit: .704 I was mistaken with an earlier post, I thought I needed a wrench to remove the bushing. Once the spring/guide rod are free, it doens't need a wrench to turn. What say you guys on these 2 options (is there a 3rd perhaps?) How about my measurements; should they be tighter?

I'm a bit disappointed today. I went to the range with a box of 45 factory rounds and about 50 reloads (Unique. powder grains from 5.3 to 6.1) 25 yards. 5 shot groups (this one happened to be 6 since I had an extra round) Benched. When I couldn't do better than the 5-6 inches, I asked one of the RSA who I knew was pretty good. He couldn't do better than 5 inches either. This was one of the best groups. Some of them only had 4 holes.

Maybe not but they are certainly "Chrony-piercing". Bad day at the range today: This was off a 308 rifle. 168 grain AMax. Chrony was about 10 feet away. It was working well and then 2 things: 1) the swivel on the tripod must have been loose so it tilted a tad too much and 2) I aimed for the bottom target without thinking. This is my stupid tax; I hate those.

My first gun was a 38 special by Rossi (R351). Never a problem with it and it was the gateway to many more (and the reason I'm now broke). It shot where it pointed and I was impressed by it's accuracy especially for a snub nose. I only paid $250 for it new and it didn't feel cheap at all. I only sold it to get something else and I still regret it a little today.

yep. Original owner said less than a box of ammo through it. Looks like it too; everything is clean except for a few ding marks. It's does have the 'idiot' scratch on the frame that I keep reading about. In reply also, the bushing is tight. no movement. And I just tried, the spring and with the bushing is so tight, I definitely need the tool to remove it.

This makes me feel a lot better that the gun is fine, the rounds are fine and it's just me. I can do more about the 'me' part of the equation. I've been dry firing at home and I realize I'm really shaking that 1911; it's heavy compared to what I'm used to. Those targets were my first rounds through the gun. If the seller's words have truth, then I'm still breaking it in. I just made another batch of 45s. Enough for 2 groups of 5 shoots each at different powder weights. I'll head to the range hopefully this weekend and report back on how it goes!

thanks you; I'll do.

Oh yes. I got 'trained' by making loads for the 10FP in 308. I don't even use the Dillon's auto powder feed. I like to weigh each charge and sometimes I weigh them twice. =) I just use the dipper spoons to give me enough powder to get started and then i dribble the rest in.

I checked the trigger pull; it's a smooth/creep free trigger so I thought it would be much less. I was surprised to find it at 5 pounds.

Yes, iron sight were difficult to keep steady and I can tell after a few mags it was harder to keep steady. The 45 kicked less than I thought but the gun is heavy. I'm going to make those loads and then try it benched next time.

I should have been more specific... the barrel slightly moves when the slide is locked back. when the slide is forward (like the pic above), there is no discernible movement. It feels tight with the bushing. There is a very slight movement (left/right) of the slide but none vertically. I can however can tell a big difference with my pics and the one lumber_jack posted.

Lumber_Jack, those pics are very useful. wow, so that's what an extra $600 will get; that's Tight. Here are mine:

Some general observations/comments: All the rounds cycled. i tried the different mags and they were all flawless. The gun was buttery smooth. There is a very very slight play (less than my px4 9mm when I used to have one) with side to side slide movement. I don't have ANY experience with 1911s but I read that the customs ones are VERY tight. There is some play with the barrel (like the bushing is a tad too large) Is that supposed to be so tight the barrel doesn't move? The trigger has that S&W common trigger wobble. It doesn't affect the trigger pull, it just feels loose. I already have a Wilson aftermarket trigger on the way.

I took half a day off work and went to the range. 45 rounds go MUCH faster than 308. I was out wishing I had had more time to reload more last night. Anyway... I'm a bit disappointed with either my groups, my gun or my reloading. Disappointment often comes from wrong expectations so I hope to adjust that with this post. How did I do? This is standing, 2 hand hold and I'm don't have a lot of experience with handguns. This is at 5 yards (15 feet), 5 rounds each group. center target is factory ammo (230 grain Federal Red box) - shy of 2 inches; that's really poor imho. Starting at the top left (5.5 grains of Unique) top right (6.1 grains of Unique). bottom left (6.4 grains of unique). bottom right. (8.8 grains of Blue dot). This is at 10 yards (30 feet). Upper left (Factory ammo, the 5th round barely touched paper but that's almost a 4 inch group). Upper right (6.4 gr of unique) I felt myself anticipating that recoil and pulled that shot way down. bottom left is just a mix of left over blue dot, and different unique loadings where I didn't have enough for a 5 round group; shoot them pretty fast also to see if i can hit that far with some speed; happy they all hit paper though. I've been reading about 1-2 inch groups at 25 yards! I assume that's really benched by some good shooters. I'm feeling pretty bad if even my best group (1 inch at 5 yards) would be 5 inches @ 25 yards!?! I plan to make some loads in the 5.3 to 6.3 range and shoot for a lot more groups and try supported. i couldn't shoot supported with this range today.

this was a more involved problem which I'm a bit embarrassed to share... and while the premise to solve it was right, i didn't think it all the way through. I use a hand primer and had some issue pushing this particular primer all the way in. (correct primer, etc. I think it went sideways sort off and just got stuck there. I didn't want to just ram/force it so I disassembled the priming tool (RCBS hand primer) but the case, primer and shell holder was still stuck. So i said, I'll just use the sizing die/primer tool to remove the primer... and it did but then I didn't think far ahead on how to remove the case from the sizing die. (and I know, using a sizing die/deprimer to remove a live primer may not be the best idea but I reckon it was better than hand forcing it out) Until I just hammered out out the stuck case from the other side. Luckily it wasn't so bad. As soon as I saw that primer stuck sort off slanted, i just wanted to get it out.

yes. going to start to do this.

When I was a little boy I would tell my mom when she called me to go to sleep, "one more game mom!" (good ole Legend of Zelda days) Last night, or rather this morning, I caught myself saying, "just one more case!" to my wife.

I made a few last night. I'm surprised that it takes very little gunpowder (using Unique and blue dot (nope, i don't mix them, I'm making different batches to test)). I'm only using about 1.5 of the yellow dipper sticks that are TINY compared to the 308 dippers i'm used to. (no i don't measure by just the yellow dipper. I used that to put into a 505 scale until i get my powder filler device set up. )

cancel that. i figured it out. i used the decapper pin and mallet to drive the case out by hammering it out from the top side.