DocHawk

It's hit and miss (sorry for the pun). I own 2 X95's and 2 SAR's. One of my X95's shoots *almost* 1MOA, the other shoots 2MOA, with 75-77gr ammo. Both open up another half inch with 55gr. One SAR shoots about 2MOA preferring 62gr, and the other will give me 1.5MOA with 77gr. Both open up only about 1/4" with any other ammo weight. That's about all these will do. They aren't the carbine you are shooting at opposite ridgelines across open canyons, anyway... minute of bad guy is all you need when you're bullpup doorkicking.

Exactly - I'm a full service retail gunsmith and SOT manufacturer with DRO mill and lathe... while we *could* do it... it's like hiring a full custom performance auto shop to make you new billet valve covers from scratch. When the top brands are mass-produced for $250, no need to pay $2500 for the same (or lesser) result.

I do those things, in Harrison on the bay right up Hwy 58. Perhaps others will chime in with other options.

PM sent and replied, thanks

I'm a S&W specialist in Chattanooga; I don't know of anyone east of me. Knox/Bristol folks, any leads? I usually switch out to all Wolff springs in the action, polish and tune appropriately. Occasional additional work includes upgraded hammers, bobbed hammers, match or combat triggers, extended firing pins, replacement of MIM parts with forged, etc.

For template-style cuts like a handgun RDS, a major CNC house with a program and setup is a far better option than a local gunsmith. They mount them in their fixture, press the button, and a few automatic operations later, you have the optic cut of your choice, perfect every time. Meanwhile, a master with a mill and precision measurements will take 25x more labor, and will not be as perfect as the CNC cut unless they also have a manual jig and fixture set up - which they don't, because it's a service best done in CNC. I recommend https://gallowayprecision.com/tier-one-carry-service

I've done several UMP conversions and I'm familiar with the parts you used. Your rifle is probably not 922r compliant if you just used the complete German UMP lower, but you might be close. That should be a USA stock, and if you bought the HKUSA mags instead of the german UMP mags, that's 2 of the 3 parts you need to cancel out the 13 qualifying imported parts on the rifle. A USA barrel would finish it. Otherwise, you'd also need a US trigger, or the HKParts bolt catch (that's what people typically use).

I used to '67 Corvette, but, you know, Jill and I, we had a fire, and well anyway, with a barrel, we have, in relative terms, a very large plastic and metal in Delaware relative to our population, and then you take evidence with you, I mean c'mon man, it was with my Corvette. But anyway...

I'd be your buyer in Chattanooga - GLWS. Anyone who wants "all the calibers" in P320's must have a 357Sig!

Yes, when they began US production, they addressed the North American market's primary complaint, and incorporated a thumb release.

I'm a confessed Sig fan fanboy, so I like collecting some of the rarer examples. Back before Sig was Sig-Sauer, they were bound by strict Swiss export laws. Partnering with W Germany's JP Sauer & Sohn in 1976, they produced their guns in Eckernforde and began exporting to the world. Before Sig Sauer was an approved importer into the US, they ran their first imports through Hawes Firearms, and Browning. The Sig Sauer P220 was the first of these rebranded guns, and was marketed as the Browning Double Action Pistol - the BDA. The BDA was imported for only three short years, after which Sig Sauer was a registered US manufacturer for their own products. It had the Euro-style heel magazine release, which limited its success, but the modern design was undeniably effective. Approximately 10,000 sold in 45ACP, and another ~2700 in 9mm. The rarest of all was the BDA chambered in. 38 Super. Only 750 or so of these rare Sigs were imported under the Browning partnership, and they are one of the hardest early US Sig handguns to find. I'm pleased to have come across two over the years, and I snagged them both. Note they have an unusual slide profile at the muzzle. This is alternately called a "pinched" or "dolphin" nose, and was unique to the ~3400 9mm and 38 Super BDA's.

Every single Browning A5 made by FN was hand-engraved (Edit for clarity: or had no engraving at all). Fun fact - no two are exactly alike. In fact, usually the engraving was completed by several apprentice gunsmiths, each completing the work in the area they were best at (scrollwork, floral, game, etc). They did come in six different grades, with correlating price increases. Most Magnums tended to be ordered in higher grades, only because the typical magnum consumer (who was, by definition, someone who cared to specify for magnum loads) also cared more about engraving.

After being unavailable to meet during the busy holidays, I'm free again and these are back up for sale!

If you cant find a fit at any of the excellent craftsmen mentioned above, I can thread your AK/M in M14x1LH with the front sight post using a bore-centric Thread Alignment Tool. My first choice is always a lathe, but sometimes pressed and populated barrel assemblies don't give you that luxury. I've done a couple hundred; lots of AKM's were muzzle-neutered in the CA market, even requiring removal of welded thread caps or worse. David in Chattanooga

Agreed... and yet, I've gotten them turned into the shop for gunsmithing dozens of times over the past 10 years or so, and about half the time, the rings are not set up right for the loads they're shooting, or many times not set up for *any* load. The users don't know that is an option. Even when the shooter knows he's supposed to set the rings, there's conflicting info out there. Take the nice graphic Whisper kindly posted. It depicts outer beveled friction rings, not inner bevel from this version of the recoil assembly. Further, there's no listing for steel loads, which require a different setup. Yes, for those of us who are well familiar with the A5 and its peculiarities, an A5 is pretty easy to diagnose. However, the average secondhand user doesn't know what there is to know. I've even repaired many, many A5's that came to me after the owner paid someone else to fix it, and it wasn't fixed. If you Google "Browning A5 not cycling" or not extracting/ejecting/working etc., you'll see this is a pretty common experience. Not because it is a bad or finicky gun, but because it's been out for over a century, and there are a lot more of them out there than there are instruction manuals, so to speak.