Swede

http://www.shotgunworld.com/ Here's a good source of shotgun and shotshell information. Remington Gun Club hulls are probably the best of the non-premium hulls to reload, along with the other Remington hulls of the same design, such as Shurshot.

I shot a can of the Albanian brass-cased 54R several years ago. It was as accurate as other ball ammo I shot in my rifle. The best thing about it is that extraction is easier in mosins prone to difficult extraction; for that reason alone I would consider it a bit more desireable.

M2 ball is a 150 grain bullet at about 2,700 - 2,800 fps.

Look again at Hodgdon's website. They list several loads for Titewad in .45acp.

I prefer Lyman dies for loading pistol calibers because the pistol three-die sets come with the M-die that is better for expanding and belling case mouths for cast bullets. M-dies are sold separately for rifle calibers. In rifle calibers, I've used Lyman, RCBS, and Lee. They all work well if properly used; I suspect improper loading technique accounts for more problems than the brand of dies used.

With so many powders and primers available that are suitable for the cartridges you plan on loading I doubt you will find a concensus.  For a beginning reloader, I would suggest getting one powder that's suitable for all three cartridges.  In the past I've used Bullseye, Win231, Green Dot, Titegroup, and Unique.  I don't think it makes much difference for most people in most guns.  I haven't loaded 9mm, but these powders are all suitable for .45acp and .38spl.  Study the manufacturers charts and get one that works in the low end to middle of the velocity range for all the cartridges you plan to load.   I don't think primer brand is critical for most uses, but I prefer Winchester, primarily because that's what I've worked up my loads with for many years now.   I would suggest you start out loading the .38spl. because revolver rounds are more forgiving of reloading techniques such as case sizing, degree of crimp, and so on that a beginning reloader will learn through trial and error.  Don't load a lot of rounds before you make sure they will chamber and function in your pistols.  You don't want to have a couple hundred rounds on hand that won't chamber in your pistol.   You didn't ask about bullets, but start with the "standard" weight for your cartridges.  Don't be afraid to buy the less expensive jacketed or lead bullets.    I wouldn't buy any component by the thousands except for possibly getting a thousand primers to begin with.  Brass lasts a long time and 9s, .45acp, and .38spl. can often be found at a range.  One good reason not to overbuy to begin with is that you may find you don't like reloading.  I'm not trying to discourage you, but the attention to detail required and the repetitive nature of it is just not to everyone's liking.  Go slow, study before you do anything, and you'll probably like reloading.  Get a manual or two for reference and to help learn the process.  I like the Lyman rifle and pistol manual  and the Lyman cast bullet manual. 

If either of your magazines is numbered to the receiver of either rifle, make sure the properly numbered magazine ends up with its rifle when you start switching them. Not an essential, but nice to have a matching magazine for resale purposes and "just because".