lshel

This morning after being in freezer overnight, I took gas block and gas tube to work bench and hit back of gas block with several hard taps with plastic pallet to maybe loosen tube. I tried to pull tube out by hand, but no progress. I put gas tube in leather padded vise and clamped very lightly and had gas block sticking out one end of vise. I then took plastic pallet and lightly tapped gas block pulling gas tube from gass block opening. After seperating the gas tube from gas block, all looks good.   My wife has some plans for this Saturday morning and probably most of the day. Later this afternoon or Sunday, I'll finish installing new low profile gas block and new MI 12"' SS Gen2 free float handguard to M&P10.

I've heated gas block with a small propane torch and could not get gas tube out by pulling on tube near gas block with gloves on. Since that didn't work I put gas block and tube in the freezer for 6 hours and tried pulling gas tube out by gloved hand with gas block in a vise, gas tube would not budge. Back in the freezer over night and try again tomorrow morning. Any other ideas?   I order a new gas tube which is suppose to be here by Tuesday, if all else fails.

I'm was installing a MI DPMS .308 SS12 free float handguard and low profile gas block. I removed original gas block with Picatinny rail but tried to drive out gas tube roll pin which was a pain. I finally had to drill out roll pin with drill press. I've tried pulling out gas tube and it will not budge. Is it locktite in place or what? I've applied liquid wrench around tube and thru gas hole and roll pin hole to let stand for a while. Do I need to order a new mid length gas tube? Any advise would be appreciated.

I have always used the 357/38 spl snake shot and they have taken many rattlers while hunting/scouting in hills of Alabama. I've used 22 shot to take mice around outside of house.

Mailed by renewal on 2/07/14 and received temorary 90 day letter on 2/21/14, then received permit on 2/28/14. 21 total days from mailing reneal application to receiving premit. Not bad, and now can apply online.

About 70% of that I bought from Midway is LR and the other 30% has been LC 11.

I purchase 500 once fired LC 308/7.62x51  brass from Midway. The brass has two different headstamps: LC 11 and LC 09 LR. The dates indicate 2011 and 2009 production. The LC 11 is tighter in full length resizing die and I really have to lube brass good with Imperial resizing wax to keep it from sticking. Is this differences due to what type of weapon the brass was 1st fired in or is there different manufacturing practices between that stamped LR (long range) and the LC 11? Those that are familiar with Lake City brass educate me, thanks.

I carry either the 45 ACP and 9mm and have several carry guns in both calibers.I also have a SW 40 Glock with extra barrel in 357 Sig. I like and shoot all of them. Reloading adds to the enjoyment.

I've had both the Nano was too blocky and set high in hand. The 9mm Shield was a lot more comfortable and easier to carry.  I sold both and I bought my carry  9mm Compact M&P for it fits my hand better, more rounds, and very accurate. Everyone is different, so good luck with your decision.

I had been working up a load for 308 in LC brass using IMR4895, 168g SMKBTHP, Win Large rifle primers.Brass trimmed to 2.005" and COL 2.80". Velocity results:   POWDER             AVG VEL.    RANGE (3 SHOTS)  Primer Appearance 41.3                        2513                5                                ok 42.3                        2576               35                               ok 43.0                        2614               63                               ok 43.3                        2682               86                               pressure signs 44.0                        2691               22                               pressure signs   I also shot a 41.3 load in Win brass and velocity was 2462 fps vs 2513 fps in LC 11 brass. So the Nato brass with same powder load is building more pressure and velocity. Some loads of LC 11 brass at 43.3 g gave protrosion in primers as well did loads using 44.0g. I cut back to 43.0g  with LC11 brass and primers were okay.

Since no one had an opinion, I order the MI Dpms 308 Low height which attaches to their barrel nut using a clamp with two hex head screws. It appears that most are this way except the JP Enterprise which has an aluminum threaded outer nut that threads onto their barrel nut, but very expensive and top rail is extra. 

I ordered the aluminum vise block that uses takedown pin holes. Hope it works!

Imperial Sizing Die Wax is great stuff. I bought a new RCBS Full Length Small Base sizing die and resized about 75 cases and had no LC brass stick using Imperial wax.

I'm wanting to collect some tools for possible work on my M&P10, maybe free float handguard. What type upper receiver vise block - aluminum or nylon? I've read reviews on nylon vise block using takedown pins twisting and sometimes breaking when tighting barrel nut. Some have recommended the aluminum vise block takedown pin type being sturdier. New to AR Self projects. Which type do you use on 308 AR's?

Optics Planet also has for $449. The only thing about the Nikon M-308 is 40 MOA internal adjustment. Most longer range scopes are 57-60 MOA.  I know they have the 20MOA on mount, but I have a QD Burris mount that I like and want to use as mount on M&P10. I'm looking more at a Vortex or Redfield more MOA internal to start with then add a 20 MOA rail, but Vortex Viper PST out of by cash range.

I was using Dillon DCL spray and rolling on pad. I bought a tin (like shoe polish can) of a new lube at Outpost 89 that they said was the slipperest. Will try in a few days.

I followed the above advice and bought a tap and die set 1/4"-20NC with #7 drill bit. Drilled and taped thru primer hole and used washers and 3/4" 1/4"-20 allen head bolt. After tightening bolt down pretty good casing slipped out.  Somewhere along process I broke decapping pin. Have to go pick one up tomorrow. The 7.62x51 Nato LC brass is really going to get a good lube prior to sizing. Thanks all.

What is the best way to get a stuck casing out of 308 full length sizing die with casing head torn off? I have die in vise and I have primer head loose with penetrating oil in die. I tried driving primer shaft down but casing didn't budge. I filled die with penetrating oil and will let set overnight. I will try again tomorrow to drive primer shaft down thru die to drive stuck casing out. Any other ideas. I only have a Dillon 500R. Any advise from those that have unstuck casing would be greatly appreciated.

Yes it says drop off 1.5 g from max with Nato brass, which I did. Their max was 45.4 g, my max load was 44.0g of IMR 4895, but I also got same pressure signs at 43.3g. I'm going to try a load at 43.0g which should be close to 2650 fps.

I've seen alot of reviews and the specs look good. They have the same scope with FFP recticle, but about $200 more. Let us know how you like it. I've seen it on sale at Optics Planet, but my budget is lower.

I have been working up a load for M&P10 using onced fired LC 11 full length resized brass with 168g SMK bullets. 4-5 rounds out of 16 did not chamber completely and when pulled trigger, hammer would fall but no bang. I had to use wooden handle to push against charging handle to extract shell. These cases had no primer intention. I marked rounds to check dimensions if someone could give me and idea besides COA and brass length to check. I don't havea 308 cartridge case gage. Previous reloads chambered and fired and also new factory ammunition chambered and fired okay.   Any suggestions as to what may be the problem. Thanks

I tried upping IMR4895 powder load to increase velocity. I used IMR4895, WLR primers, LC 11 brass, 168g SMKHP bullet, COL 2.80. I shot 3 rds of each load thru chronograph at 12' from muzzle. Load AVG. Velocity Range primer appearance 41.3g 2494 fps 28 okay 42.3g 2585 fps 40 okay 43.3g 2682 fps 86 2 out of 3 black protrusion (see photo) okay 2640 fps 44.0g 2691 fps 22 2 out of 3 black protrusion See Photo) okay 2682 fps left 2726 fps, center 2682 fps, right 2640 fps left 2704 fps, center 2688 fps, right 2682 fps The black protrusion in primers, I assume is high pressure signs. The load data sheet from Hodgdon shows low of 41g for 2447 fps and max of 45.4c for 2758 fps in a 24" barrel, 1;12" twist. I assume the LC brass being thicker increased the pressure. The 44.0g charge gave somewhat higher velocity with 1/4 the range in velocity, thus more consistent. I assume with this LC brass I need to keep velocity below 2650 fps. What are your opinions and have you seen this before?

I received my renewal form 2/06/14 and mailed it 2/07/14. My permit doesn't expire until June. Hope I get good turn-around and don't go on bottom of pile.

I went to 41.3 g of IMR4895  with 168g SMKHPBT and Win LR primers ( app.2470 fps) and had .8 MOA at 100 yds with FNAR308 20" barrel. I have changed to S&W M&P10 and get sub MOA at 100 yds with this load in 18" barrel.  I now have chronograph and can check velocity of original load in 18" barrel . I'm wanting to extend range to around 300 yds, should I get muzzle velocity closer to 2600 fps for longer ranges?

No one has experience with Guntec's ff handguards?