lshel

I'm wanting to built a longer range AR in 18" or 20" SS barrel either mid-length gas block or rifle length. I assume if mid-length you would use a carbine buffer and spring and the rifle length a rifle buffer and spring, any difference in buffer tube? Who produces a reasonable priced 18" or 20" 223 Wylde SS barrel? I have found some from Rainer Arms, Odin works, AR Stoner, and White Oak Arament $270-$290 range. Is there a good barrel cheaper? I'm going to use a Spike's Tactical upper/lower forged receiver, PSA LPK, PSA buffer tube assembly, Aims NIB V2 BCG.

I don't check that regularly at surrounding WalMarts (3 towns close), but when I do ask the clerks about any 22 ammo, they just laugh and say they receive very infrequently quanities. I don't think I've found any 22 ammo at Walmarts for over 2 years. Some people just have all the luck, but I still have a fair stockpile.

Bud's Discount Guns has both SR 762 piston driven 16" barrel at $1542 (8.6#) and SW M&P10 18" barrel midlength gas block $1249 (7.7#). The SR 762 has a picatinny rail but does not say if freefloat which would be a plus on cost and accuracy.

The SW has 5R rifling in barrel which enhances accuracy and the thinner barrel helps in overall weight. Either 308 is a good entry level for the money. I believe the SR 762 being a piston operated is more expensive out of the box. I sold three handguns to buy my M&P10 and to add some extras. Good luck with your choice !

I bought the M&P10 w/18" barrel and it's my keeper. It uses Magpul Pmags and most DPMS 308 type FF handguards fit it. I'm not sure about the Ruger SR 762 standardization with other 308's. I've added MI ff handrail, low profile gasblock, Troy Battlesights front/rear, Burris QD mount with Nixon 4-12x40 scope and Harris bipod. Groups well and fun to shoot at 100yds. I need to try it at 300yds. I had a FNAR in 308 and ths is more friendly and easier to disassemble. M&P with scope and Troy sights added in original configuriation: [url=http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/lshel63/media/SHOTGUN/43-SWMampP10-RS.jpg.html][/URL] M&P10 with modifications: [url=http://s1029.photobucket.com/user/lshel63/media/SHOTGUN/47-SWMampP10-RS.jpg.html][/URL]

308 does the job and more reloading brass is available. I have both but shoot the 308 SW M&P10 more than my 30-06 Garand.

I received and installed YHM 7" Customizable free float forearm (carbine) today. I selected this model so I could add a top main rail and a possible short bottom rail. I had to install top rail to align forearm to receiver rail. I then tried to install gas tube. I removed bolt and looked down gas tube hole in receiver and rail screw was partially blocking hole. I removed top rail and was able to install gas tube and front A2 sight with no problem. Two top rail screws were .235" long and one .245" long.  I was able to install all but front screw which is closest to barrel nut. Using a digital micrometer, I measured from rail thru screw hole to gas tube, 0.105". this will only leave about 3 threads to screw into forearm. Will this amount of threads hold with blue locktite? I'm assuming if I install the .235" long screw it will abrade maybe a hole in gas tube thru use.

Reservoir Dog, If I cann't get nut tight with a punch and brass hammer, I may borrow your YHM wrench, thanks for the offer.

I have a Smith Enterprise Armorer's wrench, it does not have a free float tube wrench for jam nut. I cann't see buying one for just one installation.

I'll probably use a brass tip punch or a nylon tip bunch, since I have both of these. I don't have a castle nut wrench either. thanks

Thanks for the input RED333. I don't want the jam nut loosening-up threw shooting and the ff tube turning,

I've ordered a HYM 7" carbine ff handguard for my M&P15, which looks good on their site and is cheaper than MI or Troy. My other FF handrail on M&P10 was a MI with all tools needed were supplied with handguard. The YHM website installation instructions says an armorer's wrench (which I have) and a YHM Forearm wrench (YHM-9621) is needed to tighten jam nut. I don't have their jam nut tool.   Can the jam nut be tighten by some other means and not scratch or deform jam nut without paying $30 for their YHM 9621 tool? There seems to be a racket by some manufacturers to sale tools only needed for their products.

I think the Sparta show is this weekend and entrance fee is cheaper and it is closer. It is usually a good trade show.

GunTec USA is American made freefloating handguard with some reasonable prices. I found a 7" FF handguard for $67 shipped (MSRP $99). I have been unable to find out how they mount handguard.   I want to try a good quality ff carbine handguard on my M&P15, but want to stay below $100, if possible. I know Midwest Industries (MI) and Yankle Hill Machine (YHM) have ff 7" from $120-$139.   Has anyone used a GunTec brand freefloat handguard and is it mounted to original barrel nut, special barrel nut, or what? Any input would be appreciated. thanks

I wanted to add a wire loop mount around A2 front sight to my M&P15 with Magpul CTR stock and QD loop on stock with Magpul MS-1 2-point sling. Blue Force Universal Wire Loop mount was the only one I could find on-line $25-$28 plus shipping. Being frugal/cheap, I made my own using a double loop of paracord and a 1 1/4" piece of small diameter clear rubber hose with sling end around rubber hose section, seems to work. What other attachments are available for a side sling mount to A2 sight?

I went and they had ANderson Precision upper and lower receivers. Lowers complete around $250,stripped lower $90 or 2 for $140. Had some ff handguards, too. Not much else there. I wasted my $7.

Is the gun show this 3/15 and 16? Where at in Tullahoma?

That's why I was asking, will a .25" or .50" cheek riser work and charging handle not get caught on it. If collapsible stock is extended completely it should not contact the riser.

It was set up as a carbine with collapsible stock.

I had seen adds for Larue cheek riser but $59 is high price compared to $18 when your on a budget.

I'm keeping original collapsible Mil-spec extension, buffer and spring and just adding the CTR stock itself. I was wanting to use cheek risers to aid in longer range shooting.

I am thinking about a cheek riser for a CTR stock (MIL-spec). The CTR stock will be on a M&P10 in 308. Magpul says that the riser may interfer with charging handle. Does anyone use cheek risers on this stock and if so what height? I would greatly appreciate your input before I waste $20 dollars. thanks

Thanks R1100R. I thought just add the correct buttstock type, but I wasn't sure. The trouble with AR's is there are too many available accessories. Deminishes the cash on hand.

If you want to change to a Magpul CTR buttstock, do you have to change buffer tube and other parts or are these common and just slip new buttstock on? I have a SW commerical 6 position collapsible buttstock on my M&P10 and want to change to the CTR style. How too?

This morning after being in freezer overnight, I took gas block and gas tube to work bench and hit back of gas block with several hard taps with plastic pallet to maybe loosen tube. I tried to pull tube out by hand, but no progress. I put gas tube in leather padded vise and clamped very lightly and had gas block sticking out one end of vise. I then took plastic pallet and lightly tapped gas block pulling gas tube from gass block opening. After seperating the gas tube from gas block, all looks good.   My wife has some plans for this Saturday morning and probably most of the day. Later this afternoon or Sunday, I'll finish installing new low profile gas block and new MI 12"' SS Gen2 free float handguard to M&P10.