glockster157

I have been reloading since 1981, I have loaded untold thousands of rounds without a major issue. I have made a few mistakes but nothing serious. I could probably quote you the Lyman reloading manual and I hung out with a lot of old timers that taught me a lot of the ropes. As to American ammo, I have only had one kaboom with a glock and it was with a 2nd Gen Glock 22 and American Ammo. I don't think American is considered re-loads as they use new A-merc Brass. I did not realize they used copper plated bullets but I don't think that is what caused my kaboom as it was the first shot. I think the ammo got hot in the car and it just over pressured and blew out the web of the case.

I am going to part with one of my Springfields or maybe the Glock 27 and try to find a compact/lighter weight LDA. What is the Tac Four like? I have put about 200 rounds thru this 7.45 LDA. I tried shooting it just like I got it and only lubing a little. It was not feeding reliably and I was afraid I had made a mistake. I stripped it and cleaned it thoroughly, re-lubed and it has run flawlessly ever since, including some of the mags the Springers don't like.

I just picked up my first LDA Para-Ordinance at the last Goodman show. I am very impressed. I was just wondering how many other LDA owners are out there and what your experiences have been with the LDA. So far this one has out shot both my Springfields. There may be more LDA's in my future.

It is in the location of the safety and the method of operation. Unlike the slide mounted safeties on many of the DA guns of today the thumb safety of a 1911 is mounted on the frame. Likewise, many 1911's have 3-4 pound trigger that are very crisp and no trigger block , though they do have grip safeties. I have had the thumb safety knock off while carrying a 1911 and that is when the grip safety is nice to have. When you draw a 1911, your thumb is already in the perfect position to deactivate a thumb safety and the grip safety is deactivated when you grip the gun, so it is a very natural gun to draw and shoot. The Glock is always ready to go and has the trigger block saftey. That is why I own Glocks and 1911's.

Nobody will carry a single action auto cocked and loaded with the safety off. I never have and I never will. I agree that if you are not willing to put the practice time in, you should not carry a 1911 style auto. But they are the fastest to get into action with the best size, shape, trigger and speed of first shot if it is done properly. BTW, I can carry the CZ that way but I never do because I like the 1911's better and they are 45's instead of 9mm, plus I have a 22 conversion kit for the CZ and that is nice to have. As to the safety on a DA gun, I never use then, except to decock and I prefer not to have them at all. One other thing about the CZ 75, if the gun has the hammer down and it is in the double action mode, you cannot put the safety on. In other words, if you are in double action mode it is always ready. I don't like the fact it switches to SA after the first shot, but I mainly just plink with that one for now.

Who said anything about leaving a safety on. As a matter of fact, I used to teach the hand gun carry course in TN and I the students that came in with the decocking/safeties used to mess up on the firing line on a regular basis. We would lecture about using the safety as a decocker but to put the gun back into a ready to fire condition before re-holstering. I would never let them use a holster draw for initial training but I would make them de-cock those type of guns between shots when we were going through our first series of shooting. Nearly every one of them would de-cock on command bt when I gave the command to aim and fire they would still have the safety on and would have a dead trigger. I saw it time and time again. So for me, use a safety on my 1911's to carry cocked and locked but it is SA-Striker fired-DAO-revolver-de-cock only, in that order. Right now, since I sold my KP97DC, I don't own a DA/SA gun except the CZ75.

The 9mm's are, The G17-Full size w/17 round mag The G19-compact size w/15 round mag (my favorite) The G26-subcompact w/10 round mag There is a couple of specialty guns like the G-34 and anything ending in "C" has compensator cutouts in the barrel and slide. The G17-9mm/G22-40SW/G31-357Sig are all full size The G19-9mm/G23-40SW/G32-357sig are all compacts The G26-9mm/G27-40SW/G33-357Sig are all subcompacts Think of it this way, all the full size guns have 4.5" barrels and 4 finger grips, all the compacts have 4" barrels and 3 1/2 finger grips and the subcompacts have 3.5" barrels with 3 finger grips. I have large hands and I have always found that with a mag installed, the compacts were the best compromise between size, shoot-ability and concealability. I would look strongly at the G19. It is big enough to shoot comfortably, holds 15 rounds, it is light and probably the most popular Glock in 9mm, though I may be wrong on that one.

One thing to consider if the trigger system. Many years ago I started when you had only two basic choices. One being a revolver and the other being a single action auto. Since them I think I have tried just about everything except a HK P7 squeeze cocker. Try some different guns but since I like the same trigger pull on every shot, I have sold off everything that has a different trigger pull between the first and second shots. I have kept, Colt single action autos Beretta double action only revolvers (SW's and Taurus's) Glocks one exception...CZ75 because it can be carried cocked and locked like a 1911. I found that, for me, the transition between the long heavy first pull and the light second pull of a SA/DA gun like a Beretta 92f or a SW 5906 was too difficult for me to master. It may not be for others but it was for me. I suggest you start off learning properly and I highly recommend the Glock. It does not have a external safety but neither does any revolver I own nor any DA only auto. It is virtually indestructible, all parts are readily available, none require fitting by a gunsmith, good factory magazines are inexpensive and readily available, holsters and accessories are also inexpensive and available also. Many will disagree, but I plan to start my son on a Glock 19, as a carry gun, when he turns 21. Also, as you stated, 9mm ammo is the least expensive so the 19/17 is going to be your best bet. Also, since you can't really hurt a Glock or wear one out, I would say find a like new in box used one for around $425, which is a common used price, and use the rest of the money for holsters, training and ammo.

Congrats on the Sc. I have been watching for one myself. I would really love to find either a Commander or a full size S&W in stainless as long as it is in scandium. I will be watching for one closely at the Pope show Saturday in Franklin, TN.

For the solid colors you could always do the Duracoat thing. They have florescent colors now, blazing orange, hot pink, canary yellow, etc

I like the Lyman manual over most others. Try to find older ones at bookstores or gunshows if you are looking for data for calibers that have been around a while. Most powder and bullet manufacturers list load data on line but the Lyman manual also lists Cast lead bullet data for rifles as well as pistols. It also has a lot of info on the reloading process. I use Lymans, Speers, Hornadys, Sierras, along with several others. You will find a lot of variation between manuals so it still takes some experimentation to find the right combination of components to get a good load. What calibers are you looking for data for and what purposes? I have a lot of pet loads and I am sure others here do also.

My math is a little different than what we began with in this thread. I can use 200 SWC plated at around .08 each, .02 for the primers, average your brass cost over 8 loadings at around .02 each shot and I use mostly quicker burning powders like Bullseye, WW231 at around 5.0 grains at a cost of 17.00 a pound so that is .012 per round. Add all that up and a hundred rounds cost me $13.20. When I have time to cast my own I eliminate the .08 and cut my costs further, though I currently do not have that sort of time now. I use a Dillon 550B which I have had for many years and plan on keeping for life so my initial investment has paid for itself many times. I also find reloading fun, educational, enlightening and freeing. I get a lot of brass free from guys who don't reload and that cuts my costs further. It does'nt hurt that I have two five gallon buckets full of brass from when I use to have a range . I would recommend reloading to everyone for one other important reason. FREEDOM. Right now, if somehow ammo supplies were cut off, I can produce a huge quantity of quality ammo in many calibers and if I stay stocked in primers/powders (I always try to stay ahead) nobody can cut me off.

I really didn't buy it because of the camo. It had a spare cut rifled barrel (threaded) with it that I wanted and they made me a good offer. Plus, I figured in TN, if I decide i don't want it anymore it would not be hard to find someone who did want one. It is a fully functional G26 and there is no difference in it than any other G26 except a slight sheen on the slide, which I don't like but I am not going to mess with.

Hello everyone, This is my first post on this forum...glad I found it...didn't know you guys were here. I ran across this G26 the other day in Springfield (at a good price I might add) and I bought it. I am not sure why but I had to share the pics. I have several Glocks and I have recently sold several others but this is my most unique one. So far I have only been able to figure out that it is the Advantage Realtree Camo pattern but exactly how it was applied and who did it I do not know. It is done well though.

I have had my CZ75B for 8 years now and I have never had a problem. I also picked up a CZ 22 Kadet conversion and it works well if I keep it lubed. The CZ is one of the best guns out there. I sold a bunch when I was in the business and I never had a problem.