Ballen

It’s an octane .45. I smoothed the radius on the bottom lugs a little more fine and rechecked for any other contact. No noticeable irregular contact on the slide, frame or barrel. I ran 230 Winchester White box through it the first time with and without the suppressor. Only malfunctioning when suppressor is attached. I ran a few federal Hst 230 grain through it today, which is a little hotter but not a lot. It cycled the Hst fine, returning fully into battery after each round. I have read about 1911 barrels needing a break in period but now I’m questioning what the issue may actually be. Likely not the recoil spring weight.

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I recently “fit” a nighthawk drop in threaded barrel to a kimber custom ii. Didn’t take much to make it fit well and has great lock up when manually cycled. The gun fires, ejects and loads fine with no indication of odd wear after a few mags. This is with an 18 lb recoil spring. I threaded a piston and an octane .45 onto and it fails to go into battery completely after being fired, short by approximately one 1/16th of an inch. Swapped to a 22 lb spring and it’s a little better, only takes slight pressure on the rear of the slide with my thumb to go back into battery. It’s close enough that it fires a second round (I know, only did it once) but not a third. I’m wondering what spring weight anyone else is using with their suppressed 1911 or of anyone has any similar experience with suppressed 1911’s in .45 acp. I’m also thinking it could possibly be an issue with the weight of the suppressor or barrel but haven’t tried any other bushings that are a little more open on the barrel. I may also try a different slide stop or fitting/sanding the radius of the bottom lugs a little better. Thanks, Brent

Flash hider is sold. 120 for the mount.

Is the Tri lug mount incorporated into the barrel on this model?

The frame supports 10mm but you would not have reliability with the .45 slide as the extractor and the breech face are a little different.

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Both are new.

New, never turned on a barrel. Doesn’t come with shims. Has a .50 cal bore.

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Used very little. Too short for me as I have a wingspan over 6 feet.

Wait time is a strange animal. I’ve had one take nine months from submitted to approval. I recently purchased through Capitol armory and the submit date was December 20th, approved January 8th. Less than 3 weeks.

Not exactly sure what role you’re looking to fill with an mk18 style rifle, but primary weapons systems has the mk111 pro upper on sale fairly cheap on their actual website. They’re piston operated, not di. https://www.primaryweapons.com/mk111-pro-upper/

What’s the bore on the Lantac?

The Jakl uses a threaded insert that replaces the buffer extension tube with a pic rail and works with standard receivers.

Still available.

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I’ve somehow placed this in firearms classifieds. It should probably be in gear classifieds.

https://palmettostatearmory.com/psa-jakl-rifle-upper-assembly-13-7-5-56-nato-1-7-nitride-w-bcg-black.html This is the 13.7 pin and weld model that utilizes keymo attachments. It will include the ept lower parts kit and the proprietary pic attachment that is necessary for these uppers. All that’s needed is a lower receiver and the stock of your choice. There is a scratch in the aluminum from an oversized pivot pin that had contact when I was fitting it to a lower. Nothing else has been assembled and is all still in the packaging. I would trade for a semi auto handgun that interestsme and cash or a .357 revolver with a 3”-4” barrel.

If Christmas wasn’t so soon.

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