GS455

Yea, someone would need to see the scope + mount on the receiver to know the geometry involved

I'll check him out. Do you know if he drill and taps receivers as well? Trying to avoid shipping the whole gun that's why I was hoping for someone local.

I've got a Mauser M48 bolt body that needs to have it's handle turned a few more degrees down so it can clear a ZRAK scope and mounts setup. No idea who does this and I'm not looking for some boutique hunting rifle gunsmith just a heat and bend a scooch. I'm just north of Nashville.

Some of you may have already seen my older and recent posts about “My 54r Vepr Woes” as well as chapter II. If you think I’m a whiner or ignorant, well, so be it, but bedtime reading if bored (and I’m still open to suggestions). Here, I’m only just coming to epiphanies, perhaps a decade late. I’m honestly wondering what the craze was around these back in the day. Obviously substantial enough and volume on the market for the likes of CSSpecs and others that invested in accessory projects for em. This is specifically a discussion surrounding my late, 20.5”, 54r, single stack variant. I was drawn in by all the praise and chatter, great, thicker, accurate barrels and just had to have one before it was “too late” (and now, it apparently is). I paid about $840 which, I felt, was a lot at the time. Mine is from the last batch that Atlantic was selling with the front site at the end of the barrel (not at the gas block). A guy named Blaine Bunting (very polite) from Atlantic who was “working” the forums, hand-held me through the purchase as they were just coming in and lots of follow up emails asking what I thought and was I satisfied, etc. In fact, it was above and beyond, great pre/post customer support (AAA+ there) for a single end-user. I didn’t really say so, partly b/c I was pretty “green” at the time (still am?) and it took so long to run it through its paces with glass but, from the day I opened the box I was somewhat disappointed. I immediately noticed the less-than hardware of the action (bolt/carrier group and piston) all being smaller/thinner/lighter compared to a standard x39 AKM action which I thought strange considering the larger 54r caliber. At the time I did get it out to the range immediately for function test on a HOT summer day. After a few boxes of ammo, I was sweating quite a bit and noticed right away that the finish on the factory walnut, thumbhole, buttstock was blistering. I parked it in the back of the safe and took a couple years before I picked up the IWD stock set, RSRegulate mount, rings, glass, mags, etc. While the IWD stock set is gorgeous (owner a great guy but RIP) I was really disappointed to lose that major fastening point through the pistol grip into the receiver leaving only two wood screws to connect, one from the inside of the rear of receiver and one through the rear tang. An attachment that easily loosened up over time and stripped the wood. I was able to have it filled and redrill the holes to secure (for now). What’s better about these over other 54r or battle rifle caliber AKMs? Russian, as-built”, 54r semi-auto (is it better – just because?) Decent rear sight with windage adjustment (okay, but I’m old and don’t shoot irons anymore) Thicker barrel profile that folks were acknowledging as major plus (no accuracy benefit I’m realizing at this point) What else? What’s not? Comparatively light for a “battle rifle” caliber (plus or minus?) Light action-hardware combined with being over gassed provides for violent recoil/impulse (at least mine) clearly necessitating a KNS piston. Throws spent cases up to 30’ Loss of pistol grip screw with the IWD stock (okay, not an original design flaw, rather, an IWD non-feature) Slant back receiver wi rear tang (fewer aftermarket stock options?) Original Thumbhole stock that can’t take a bit of sweat plus it’s just Monte Carlo ugly. Gas tube lever is so tight mine is practically mangled from just a few removals Stock trigger (mine) is horribly gritty and sticks (yea this can be polished or replaced) Barrel nut pinned and welded (plus/minus?). At least I could cut/remove to access standard threads so as to install a Tabuk-style flash hider Front handguard screws into a barrel collar (WTF !!! And why?) Did anyone consider how this affects barrel harmonics Single stack mag/receiver design (blech). Probably too much trouble to design and engineer a proper double stack mag for 54r Okay, so, this thing is a Russian built AKM pattern rifle (oooo aaaah) but, I think, an opportunistic/sporter construct in no way approximating anything close to a military quality product. It is now, I guess, a collectible as we’ll never see em again but what is/was the appeal? Yea, I have my personal accuracy issues with mine which REALLY grates me. I have a decent collection of 20th century battle rifles and carbines and nothing has given me such disappointment as this. At this point I’m wondering if I just cut losses and run or keep going. I haven’t done the math (yet) but likely matching or exceeding the original purchase price with all I’ve chosen to do to it: IWD Stock Tabuk flash hider Five CSSpecs mags RSRegulate scope mount ARMS #22 rings I won’t count the Trijicon AccuPoint scope as it’s a floater Stock repair for a weakness that will probably fail again, And now perhaps: a KNS piston which I’ll have to pay to have installed and will likely not help with accuracy, rather, simply keep it from shooting itself apart. A free float hand guard solution or replace the whole stock set? Trigger improvement or replacement. This is, relatively speaking, an increasingly expensive hobby and I’ve got some disposable income at this point in life. I pity younger guys getting into this today (a dying market I think). Back in “the day” I horded up a bit of corrosive, milsurp 54r @ $69ish/tin and was seeking additional rifle variants to enjoy my prudent, modest investment. Simply put I don’t mind spending money a bit at a time with a quality end in sight but this thing . . . . . ? In summary: Mine's seems to be a lemon in ways (maybe it’s not over yet). At the time I REALLY wish I went wi the .308 (double stack mags). And maybe they are a different story. I’ve never seen one nor a x39 version, but I'm pretty disenchanted with what I feel is this sloppy, cheap, light duty, non-military grade, opportunistic construct Molot spit out upon us. I think the Russian decision makers allowed them to come up with this clearly lesser-than-milspec, consumer product for the Western markets not really for hunter/sporting but the voracious, Combloc, wanna-have-a-Russian fanboys (like me).

There was no pulling the bullet with pliers and a vice. So unable to fire the primer . Cut the head off. Dry stick powder. The inside of the case and the bottom of the boat tail bullet is immaculate

A fellow on a forum is saying it's absolutely bad powder and not primers. If pulling bullets and reseating with fresh powder is all that needs to happen, then perhaps, an exercise worth doing. That is, after I burn through my lifetime supply of other 8 mm, LOL

It's still click-bang through an M48 that already has a 24lb Wolfe spring. Probably a bit more background indicated ...... I don't reload now but have a brand new 550 (still in box) and a bunch that goes with it including a crap-ton of accessories, tools, primers, powder, NATO and some other bullets. I know the primers are spent, which is why I bring this up. I've been saving my calibers of reloadable brass, including 8mm, for years. I figure, maybe when I retire, I might start reloading as a new hobby and maybe get more into precision shooting, etc. Obviously, there are no specs on the powder, so best transferring over into other 8mm brass, I'd think. With all that in mind, assuming that powder still burns, I guess I'm wondering if it's all worth keeping in the Ammo Fort as a couple $grand$ in reusable components? Or, for example, are Bulgy bullets known to be crap and saving/reusing that old powder a moronic idea? Back in the day I used to read how some reloaders would break down the 1950s 8mm Yugo for bullets & powder and reload into other boxer brass. I have a lot of that stuff, too, and happen to think it's some of the most accurate 8mm milsurp I have. Typically, only one hang-fire in 40 or 50 rds wi HiPower Wolfe bolt spring.

Several years ago I picked up a 2,400 rds of 8mm Bulgy milsurp. Unfortunately, as warned, it’s pretty much all click-bang, hang-fire due to poor primers. The insides of the cases is pretty much clean and for the most part all fire. I spoke to a buddy that reloads and as a cost analysis for 2,400 rounds: New Siera Matchking FMJ bullets @ .52/ea will run $1,248 and if he figures 1lb of powder will fill 150rds @ $52/lb = $832. So bullets and powder for 2,400rd will approximate $2,080. Sounds spendy. Does that sound right?

I have a collection of mainly 20th century battle rifles. All presumably milspec’d to withstand the rigors of combat/abuse. Virtually nothing I own, aside from a few in polymer, wears a new commercial wood stock and nothing so seemingly fragile as a Boyds laminate that I feel failed on me recently. It was an At-One-Thumbhole stock on a Ruger American Ranch (7.62x39) that was leaning against a wall. It was lightly bumped causing it to fall over, 90 degrees, under its own weight, down onto a not-so-hard vinyl floor. As you can see it sustained severe cracks across it’s body. In milsurp circles I’ve always believed laminate stocks to be considered tougher and stronger than standard wood stocks (i.e. 91/30’s and AKMs in laminates). I would think any stock should be able to take mild to moderate abuse whether in combat, on a ranch, in the bush or forest hunting. I’m mainly a medium skill plinker, so, yea and occasional mild drop or tip-over may happen at the range or at the house. I absolutely love the appearance and form factor of this stock but should it be so apparently brittle? Without much apology Boyds has thankfully taken it back for a full refund but are not directly fessing up to any kind of warranty/material failure, rather, doing me a “favor”. I have been offered a replacement at a modest discount (mainly due to a bunch of other hassles I won’t go into) but, in short, should get another laminate version or go with a solid walnut variant instead. Boyds won’t answer which would be stronger either way.

I need to drill & tap a receiver for mounts as well as slightly bend a bolt handle a few degrees. Any competent recommendations that won't take 4-6 months? Thanks

Back to the "Topic of blasphemy (for some). I'm going to clone the 24/47 into a Balkan "Conflict" DMR via a set of ZRAK Swing Mounts + ONM76B scope. And I bought an M48, bent handle, bolt body off eBay and swapped internals wi the 24/47 bolt. I transferred a BadAce + LER Burris from my 98/29 Persian last night just to see how she shoots today. Bottom line: I can't shoot anything w/o glass anymore. I did the same wi a minty-bore M48 that was gathering dust for years and now it gets to go out and play quite often. I have two lifetimes' supply of 8mm that I'd just assume not run through my semi autos. I like shooting military config "History". Oh, and I really REALLY don't care for the scout+LER set up / solution. I was pounded into submission from the hive for even suggesting I would tap and drill the Persian. This is my insubordinate, pushback with a less valuable collectible that woulda/shoulda/coulda worn the hardware I'm putting on it in real life. Actually I've read that 24/47s came in DnT'd or even wearing Mauser / Zrak bases so . . . . . . . . . and going to enjoy the company of her siblings . Wish I could add pictures but I guess this forum has maxed out what I'm allowed to post in graphics

I'll say one thing about Amazon, when you have an impulsive itch it can get scratched quickly. Ordered last night and already here this afternoon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9Y445KR/?tag=akfnfal-20 Thanks to another forum member, this little guy is almost exactly what I was looking for. Compact, fairly light, range bag friendly, precision movement and absolutely handles the weight of this big ol Vortex w/o the least bit of wobble. Not sure how it will do prone, the legs will go flat, but probably not ideal. I’m guessing a Creedmoor style will be better for expert competition, etc, but this had a relatively low $ risk to try. I don't know if it's a low-end feature but the guide handle on my current cheapo, POS tripod will allow horizontal/vertical adjust by untwisting (convenient). This is thumbscrew adjust.

I ended up getting two cases of this stuff for the same price as the latest 1969 M2 Ball offering. It is beyond difficult to transact business via the CMP estore nowadays, no one takes calls, returns vmails or responds to email (for weeks) and good grief, the CMP Forums is an absolute train wreck since the update they did last year. Basically broken and if it did work it's so out of standard and difficult to sub-navigate. Such a shame. I really enjoyed all the traffic and learned so much over there, over the years. Other than the Market Place it seems virtually dead these days.

I have an older, fairly heavy Vortex Skyline ED 20-60x80 (Angled) @ just under 6lbs. Had it for years, the glass is clear and serves my purposes out to 500 or so yards. I'm looking for a lower height/profile tripod for use on a bench or occasionally shooting prone. The few I've tried have been too lightweight or unsteady for easy, reliable repositioning w/o wobbling all over the place. What are common mid-price options folks are using these days?

Apparently branded and offered by CMP in the early 2000s before the HXP days. Anyone have an feedback about how it shot? Not much I can find online about it other than some folks claim it was Federal "seconds" and not actually Match ammo at all. Some folks not impressed, other pleased. I plan to use it mainly in my 03A3.

Got her back out today. Nice 61-degree break from the recent deep freeze. Using 1990’s 8mm Yugo M75 I was able to zero in with repeatable 2” (+/-) groups. Could stretch out to 400yd, 12” steel with ease. I moved over to 1956 Yugo M49 on stripper clips. Despite overall less than favorable reports, I loaded up on a healthy stash 15 years ago for just under .20cpr. I learned early on not to run this through my M76 nor any semiautos (another story) so I buried it. Unfortunately, during the 2010 Nashville floods it sat under water for almost 2 days. In recent years I’ve had good results with it through my only other scoped 8mm bolt gun, an M48 Balkan Civil War DMR clone under an ONM76B scope. I tried it a few weeks ago through this Persian 98/29 and got almost 100% fail-to-fire. I broke down and cleaned the bolt (very dry old cosmoline crud in and about), installed a 22lb Wolff bolt spring and now I’m getting an acceptable light strike from only 1 in 20 rounds (+/-). 2nd strike always goes bang. Here's what’s pretty killer: Without a single click adjustment to the scope my buddy and I were reliably able to whack that 12” plate, @ 400yds, time after time with pretty much 8 out 10 hit ratios. That’s 70 year old ammo though a 90 year old rifle !!! As another well known member on some other forums says: “whatta hobby” ! (Still hate shooting through an LER scope, although, it's bright and clear. Just a PITA to acquire sight pic.)

Three of us did a massive bulk buy from a well-known collectible reseller. You don't want to know what we paid per round. It's all spotless and clean. Other than slightly aged cardboard on the sleeved boxes it looks brand new

Found him. Hour west of Nashville.

Interesting. Looks like my kinda guy. Where is he located. Website doesn't say.

No stock refinishing but perhaps barrel swaps, things like investigate why my Enfield won’t extract, figure out why it shoots, 6-8” groups at 100yds, why my 54r Vepr which also shoots horrible groups no matter the ammo, possible trigger clean up improvements on various mag/actions, etc., I’d love ot find someone that could swap the barrel on a spent PU Sniper I re-snipered in error many years ago. Scatman, You mean Echo Three Armory in Chapel Hill, TN? Never heard of em. Will investigate https://echo3armoryllc.com/ Mike W, Yes I searched/found Ronnie Morris via some forums (including this one). I guess he’s known for hot-shot, tunes of M14/M1As. Not far from me. I’ll see if he’s still at it. Match Service Works Ronnie Morris 422 Maple St. Madison, TN 37115 (615) 868-4567 ronm@bellsouth.net Someone thought there was a guy at Royal Range west of town that was pretty good. They have all kinds of classic milsurps you can rent to shoot as well as old and modern full autos so I gotta imagine they have or would have a line on a guy that’s right up my alley.

I'm mainly a collector of 20th century battle rifles: i.e. bolt stuff from Mausers, 03A3, Lee Enfields, Mosins to semi autos, Garands, M1Carbines, AKMs , ComBloc AKM pattern DMRs, PTR91, FALs, ARs, etc. Is there anyone in town that is relatively knowledgeable across this segment of firearms? I have figured out and/or learned quite a bit over the years via YouTube and the forums. But the typical forums we all frequent seem to be dying off. They were very a-buzz with chatter and expertise 10+ years ago but I’ve noticed post traffic is way down the last couple/few years. Good lord the CMP forum is virtually dead and seems broken sicne they just gave it a facelift. Folds talk about Reddit but I can’t for the life of me figure out how to research, read, and post there in any categories or subforums that make any sense to me. Occasionally need a higher level of support/work. Is there anyone in town that guys work with? I’ve been to the guy at Guns n Leather, Sam Hoster, the fellow up in Chapmansboro, TN. No one really seems well versed in all of what I’m into. And that’s fine if someone’s into some things and not others. I’m just looking for local, drive-range alternatives to shipping my stuff out across the country to “known” experts and waiting 5-10 months.

Look what I got for Christmas. A BadAce mount and a LER 4x Burris wi FFP, BDC reticle. How could my wife have known !!! It was a very peculiar experience for me to shoot via an LER scope for the 1st time. Will take getting used to. Initially I really do not care for it at all. I always thought these set ups look goofy. Even more so in person. BUT I was able to target out to 300yds. No-go on the 1950’s Yugo M49. Will need a high-power spring in the bolt. I was able to get 2-3” groups with 1990’s Yugo M75 as well as that WWII Nazi 178gr MG ammo that’s been around lately. Actually, I have been VERY pleased with that German stuff. Was getting at and under 2” with my Yugo M48. This last trip was pretty cold and I was irritated by the LER scope so I’m sure when I have some patience it’ll do much better. Plus I forgot a gel pad and after a few boxes of ammo my shoulder was quickly DONE.

Well, my little saga continues if anyone is interested and/or may learn from those that come before them (or just want to bag on me). Unfortunately this forum is no longer letting me attach a single pic. Says exceeding size limit. Which is weird b/c I was able to post many pics above and now I can't post one??? Sorry. Cleaning up the inside of the stock with a bit of aggressive sanding and medium grit did sort out the alignment of the barrel in the action. Now, on to what’s peculiar. I discovered that when I hand tighten the action snug into the stock the bolt moves freely. When I crank it down to about 30lbs, as Boyds recommends, the bolt will not clear the magwell and stops short of being able to close. I added a couple #10 washers to the front action screw and that solved it BUT I should have added washers to the rear (duh) action and trigger guard screws b/c after a couple install removals the plastic magwell cracked and broke at the trigger guard. Okay, that’s on me. They graciously sent a replacement free of charge advising me to go ahead and use the washers to space the magwell away to clear the bolt at full install torque. Not sure if that’s going to be a solution. Having Duramag issues as well: Two of five (on the left) only accept 9 rounds and the other three show the noses tilting up. Also, every once in a while, some rounds got ridden over by the bolt forcing me to hold the mag up during charging (caused by washers?). I contacted them and their VP of Sales was prompt and concerned asking if I would disassemble and take pics. Never could figure out how to get that floorplate off. After a few emails back n forth he went dark on me (maybe something way more important came up in his life). GunMagWarehouse took them back for a refund and I have since ordered a pair each of ASC and of D&H Tactical ten rounders as testing alternates. I also round some thinner brass washers. We’ll see how these do. If the bolt continues to ride over rounds then it’ pretty clear to conclude that the Boyds stock in relation to the magwell and magazine fitment is out of spec.

I’ll go with a scout set-up here on the Persian. The Bad Ace mount seems most common https://www.badacetactical.com/collections/ndt-mount-for-mausers/products/mauser-low-profile-scope-mount However, when it comes to scout scopes, I’m hoping BDC reticle with FFP. About the only thing I have turned up is the Hi-Lux LER 2X-7X with 308BDC reticle . https://hi-luxoptics.com/products/hi-lux-optics-long-eye-relief-2x-7x-riflescope?variant=36901033485 Should be, but I’m not a ballistics guy. How will the 308 BDC reticle serve with to use with 8mm? (out to 400yds) Are there any other LER, FFP, BDC scout scopes that could be appropriate for a 29” long, 8mm barrel such as the Persian 98/29 ?

Here's the semi finished result. Bit heavier than the Ruger plasti-stock but faaaar more attractive and ergonomic in my view. Cycling with snap caps with AR mags feels much better on the bench. Still can't do an index finger release of the bolt. Considering how much cycling I did with lapping compound I imagine it's more of a high tension bolt-spring issue that I probably should not mess with (open to suggestions here). It definitely has significant fitment issues to which Boyds has responded : "Hello, I would get some fine grit sandpaper and lightly sand and clean up the inletting of the stock, remove any wood burrs / slivers. If the barrel is making contact after cleaning up the inletting sand on the left side of the stock, where the action sits down in at. There may be something there that is shifting the action over and then resulting in the barrel coming back to the left. You can also try baby powder on the barreled action, if there is a high spot, the powder will rub off on it and you can gently sand it down. When tightening the front action screw to 25-35 inch pounds you can also gently pull the barrel to the right. If that doesn't work, please let us know" I haven't sent these pics yet nor have I attempted sanding. Seems like considerable mis-fitment requiring quite a bit of sanding (in my opinion) that should be closer to free float out of the box than this. I'm gonna tweak/mess with it this weekend. Might get it to the range Sunday.