Dolomite_supafly

I have held these before and they are very nice. The handle and feel well and look like they are well made. But they are not nice enough to spend $200 for a stamp then buy the conversion. Also, in semi there are much better options out there. There is a guy at the last two shows here in Knoxville who has one on sitting his table. He also have a bunch of other NFA items as well. Dolomite

Thanks, I did a quick search and couldn't find any. I am not up to date on all the different models which is probably why I din't think they were making them. Dolomite

I do not believe there are any "ready made" guns like what you are looking for. Having a commander length slide fitted to a officer's frame wouldn't be that hard to do, at least no harder than fitting any other slide and frame. As far as hiding the grip I would look at having it bobtailed. Bobtailing seems to help the gun blend in more when concealed without a loss of capacity. It is the sharp corner on the bottom rear of the grip that seems to stand out more than anything. If you can blend and bobtail the frame then I think it will reduce the profile a lot more. Over the years I have carried officer's models, compact models as well as full size guns. In the end I like having a fuill size gun on me, the benefits of a full size outweigh the benefits of the smaller guns IMHO. The capacity, velocity and sight radius are much better in the full size guns and for these reasons I prefer the full size guns. The officers and compact guns are easier to conceal but you are giving something up for that ease. I still need to test but I suspect the compact's muzzle velocity is going to be 100+ fps slower when compared to a full size gun. Couple this with the reduced capacity and the shorter sight radius and IMHO I think you are giving up too much. This is why I also carried a full size 9mm as opposed to a compact, for the extra capacity and velocity. When you consider that your firearm doesn't need to be completely concealed in thsi state I think the small size isn't worth the other losses. Dolomite

And to add something else. My first mods are going to be done to increase reliability. They are outlined here. After that I will probably do a few other custom things I try to do to each 1911 I have owned. Dolomite

This thread is about the American Classic (AC) I recently purchased. First let me say that the fit of the AC’s slide and frame is very tight. When compared to the only other 1911 I own, a Colt 1991A1, the tolerances are magnitudes better on the AC than on the Colt. The Colt has frame to slide plat while the AC’s play is nonexistent. The barrel bushing on the AC is also very tight fitting when compared to the Colt. The barrel on the Colt has play while locked while the AC has absolutely no play whatsoever. The finish of the gun is a very bright and shiny blue on the sides of the slide. On the top of the slide as well as the frame it has more of a matt finish. The frame and slide are supposedly forged like the original design called for. The slide has front and rear cocking serrations that are sharp, deep and angled rearward. The slide is also dovetailed front and rear for sights. The sights appear as though they are Novak three dot even though they are not Novaks. They work really well and both the front and rear are drift adjustable with the rear having a setscrew to keep the adjustments from moving because it does move easier than the front. Even though it is easier it still requires it to be tapped to be moved. The front sight is so tight I seriously doubt they will move unintentionally. The only modifications I did upon disassembling the pistol were the addition of a buffer and a better trigger. Not that the factory trigger was bad but the trigger I installed allowed me to reduce take up to a bare minimum. There isn’t a whole lot of take up on the factory trigger but I have always installed this type of trigger on 1911’s I have built in the past. It does not affect the pull in any way and as a matter of fact the factory trigger has a polished bow and is adjustable for over travel. The trigger also has a stop to prevent over travel. The trigger breaks cleanly at just over 4 pounds with no grittiness or slop. The barrel appears to be a standard 1911 barrel. It fits the slide well with no gaps. It is bright and crisp and seems easy to clean. The link pin is normal 1911 fare and the pin that holds it in place stays put. The barrel bushing is also very tight on the barrel, like everything else on the AC, when compared to the fit of the Colt. I can feel no discernable movement when the slide is all the way forward. I cannot say the same for the Colt. The gun had a Hogue over molded finger groove grips and they do feel really good as most Hogue grips do. The various pins in the frame are very tight and must be pushed out. The pins in the AC will not fall out like on other 1911 style pistols. They almost remind me of the oversized pin kits you can buy to tighten up a standard 1911. The hammer pin fits the frame and the hammer tightly insuring there is not wobble in the hammer. The hammer also has side cuts to keep the side of it from rubbing on the slide like some 1911’s. The hammer does have a decorative design in the hole. The recoil spring and plug are standard 1911 with nothing out of the ordinary. All of the internal parts are standard 1911 and appear to be well built and to original spec. It comes with an extended slide stop, extended thumb safety and a standard sized magazine release, which works well. The plunger tube is properly stacked in place like a 1911 should be. The flat, checkered main spring housing appears as though it is a cast part. The fit and finish of the main spring housing is great. When firing I had zero malfunctions when using factory ammo. I did have one failure to go into battery with a hand load but I blame the hand load and not the gun. My initial groups had me worried as they were holding around three inches at 15 yards from a rest. Then I realized that shooting only striker fired pistols for the last 5 years may have a negative impact. So I settled down and concentrated on all the fundamentals. I was rewarded with numerous five shot groups where all rounds were touching. I am sure the pistol is more capable than I am, at least until I get used to firing SA pistols again. The magazine that came with the AC is a 8 rounder with a bumper pad and it functioned flawlessly, locking the slide back on the last round. I also tested various other GI magazines and all of those functioned flawlessly as well. Even though I am very happy with the pistol it does have some issues. The biggest issue is the finish. Although nice, the bluing wears very easily. Even though this pistol was new it did have some wear marks from sliding around in its case. I would not expect to see bluing being worn by plastic but it did. This was a point I used to get the AC a little cheaper. I had planned on coating the firearm from the beginning because it will be carried. The next thing is that the extractor is sticking out slightly from the rear of the slide. This isn’t going to affect function but those who are accustomed to higher end pistols will see this as a cosmetic defect. Pictures: Most of the shiny spots on the internals were from me firing approximately 100 rounds. Overall I am very happy with the price I paid for the gun. I would recommend this gun to anyone who is looking for a budget 1911. If you can get over a few of the minor flaws I have mentioned you will find yourself with a pistol that will be great, especially for the asking price. If you have any questions or want specific picture please ask. I literally took 3x to 4x as many pictures as you see here. Dolomite

Ok guys for those of you who are following this thread I am going to start a new thread specifically about the American Classic I purchased today. Dolomite ETA: Here is the new thread. http://www.tngunowners.com/forums/handguns/46092-american-classic-ii-picture-heavy-56k-beware.html#post602352

I picked up one of the American Classics for $475 OTD. It was wearing a $25 set of grips. I'll let you know how it does. The frame to slide fit is very tight. Dolomite

I realize that and I don't expect a $1000+ gun for the money I am going to spend. But their are deals out there just as there is overpriced 1911's. The design has been around long enough that making it isn't rocket science. The rocket science part of it would probably be the metal used as well asas the hardening. And according to all I have read the AC has a forged slide and frame which is true to original 1911 specs. The internals are also cast then machined parts and not MIM like a lot of the more pricey guns out there. I would be willing to bet that more modern equipment is being used to build these budget 1911's today than some of the older American made 1911's. Now before everyone gets there panties in a bunch. I didn't say the budget guns were better but I bet there are some that are made better than some of the early 1911's. Even if I could afford to spend $2000 on a gun to use as a beater I still wouldn't. You don't have to spend a ton of money to get a reliable gun that would be fun to shoot. Not directed at you DaddyO, but a lot of people feel a need to bash anything new that might be better and cheaper than what they already own. It still goes on today with all kinds of threads whether it be optics, guns or accessories. As long as the purchaser is happy what does it really matter. I am going into this with a certain amount of expectation, but not a lot. As long as it is reasonably accurate, reasonably durable and able to accept factory parts I will be happy. I am not worried about the finish as it will be getting coated pretty quick. If it does need a little tweaking I am fine with that as well as long as it doesn't turn into a money pit. Dolomite

I can honestly say the only 1911 that ran 100% for me was a Norinco. I am sure it is just like you say and that is was probably just a "good" one. I just want something I don't feel guilty about pulling the trigger on a few hundred times a week. I will look at some RIA but I will be getting a AC based on everything I have read as well as been told. Even a few dealers have admitted that they are better than some of their more pricey guns. I am just hoping I can find one locally for around$475 OTD. I can get the tactical blued version for $436 shipped to my FFL and then a $25 transfer/TICS fee bring the total to $461. I will buy local as long as they dealer isn't gouging too much. I am not going to spend the $500+TAX+TICS one local dealer is asking. I know they have to make a profit but I will not pay $100 more just for the convience of buying local. Dolomite

I definitely will as it seems no one has made the comparison because the AC's are so new. I have been told by a few people now that the fit is better with the AC's than the RIA's. I will know tomorrow. Dolomite

I am going to be looking at a few ACII's and a few RIA's side by side tomorrow. I will pick the better fitting pistol regardless of caliber. As I said I would prefer a 9mm but I am set up to load 45 ACP so that can defer the costs some. It is the fact that I shoot ALOT that makes me leary. Just this week I went thru about 750 9mm rounds. This isn't a normal week but a normal week for me is at least 200 rounds. The cost difference, even if I reload, is going to be substantial. For those of you who have the AC's, what type of dove tail cuts do they have for the sights? One more thing, how well do they really shoot? Thanks guys, Dolomite Smith: PM replied to

I have a Colt Compact that I bought used. The only thing it needed was the extractor tweaked, no doubt from years of use. Since tweaking the extractor it has been 100% reliable with everything I have ran thru it. The only thing I do not like about the compact is the capacity, 6+1. It will take 7 rounds mags but it is possible to over insert the magazine and cause a problem. Carrying the compact is a breeze but I prefer a full size over the compact because I have carried them for years. I am currectly looking for a full size 1911 in 9mm to make shooting it cheap and easy. Dolomite

I am looking at a few budget guns so I can shoot without feeling guilty. I currently have a Colt Compact in 45 ACP that I don't want to shoot a lot or carry every day. I am not new to 1911's but I am new to all the budget guns.The cheapest I have bought in the past were several Norincos I bought to build but nothing ready to go. Now I am thinking I can save a bit of money and time by getting a budget gun with most things I would want. I know they are not going to be $1000+ guns but I do want the best bang for the buck. The two I am looking at are the Rock Island Tactical and the American Classic II. Both are in the same price range and have similar features for the money. I do want a 9mm for cost savings but I also want the best gun I can get in the sub $500 range even if it isn't 9mm. I am wanting a 9mm but the American Classic isn't available in 9mm but the fit and finish seems to be a lot better than the RIA. On the other hand the RIA is avaiable in 9mm but doesn't seem to have the same fit and finish as the American Classic. If the American Classic is hands above the RIA then I will stick with 45 ACP but if they are about the same them it will definitely be the RIA in 9mm. I plan on shooting whatever gun I get a lot as well as possible carrying it providing it is dead nuts reliable. Also, if anyone has had any problems with either please let me know. Thanks Dolomite

A number of years back I mentioned trying to get in on this to one of the companies I worked for. I do know there are some that did approcah a few of the shipping companies. I was also told that there are some security contracts out there for maritime security contractors but they are few and far between, not a big market. They are also looking for very specialized folks to work it, mostly SEALS. Al have said a few miniguns, a few RPG's and some decent guys could do wonders to prevent the pirates from being successful at making it back to shore. Eventually word gets out that odds are you will be killed if you are caught. I know they don't have much to live for in Somalia but at least they are living so hopefully they would think twice. This wouldn't have helped the sailing yacht but some of the big transport ships could definitely use it. I have read where shipping companies pay in the tens of millions to have a ship released. To a Somali that is like winning the lottery. The biggest problem is regulations concerning a ship being armed. I am sure there are some sort of international law regarding a ship being armed with offensive weapons. Also, it depends on which port or ports you will be entering. Some countries don't take having firearms on board too well. Dolomite Oh and one more thing "America, **** YEAH!"

I give you a few samples of DI AR's going well beyound 3000 rounds without cleaning. None of these are me but I still stand by my statemt that I have fired 3000+ rounds over a 3 month period without cleaning and still had a functioning rifle. It all has to do with quality ammunition being fired out of a quality rifle. 5880 rounds without cleaning and still working You have to have to be a member of AR15.com to go to the link but here are some pictures: They are huge so I linked rather than imbedded them. http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/1006/p8040023q.jpg http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/6206/p8040024.jpg http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/4214/p8040026.jpg http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/4267/p8040027.jpg http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/6933/p8040029.jpg http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/2421/p8040031.jpg The above is not related to below. This is from Pat Rogers who runs EAG Tactical: At 26,450 rds had 3 failures to extract. Replaced BCG and cleaned gun for the first time Look for a Pat Rogers's article on EAG Tactical's "Filthy 14" BCM Middy in the October 2010 issue of SWAT Magazine. Swat magazines has a torture test of a Colt 6920LE in the July 2010 issue. The Colt in question was cleaned once, and not until nearly 15k rounds. Get the magazine. Dolomite

If you are going to be carrying it I would suggest something that is a bit corrosion resistant. Stainless steel or one of the many great coatings out there. I would avoid something blued with nothing covering it. The body can give off a lot of moisture and can cause problems if you don't stay on top of it. I have carried full size 1911's and currently carry a Colt Compact when I don't feel like carrying the 24/7 I recently bought. 1911's, even the full size ones, carry well as long as the weight doesn't bother you. They seme to tuck really well relative to their size. Dolomite

I am no longer listed also. I was the last time I checked which was earlier this year. Dolomite

I use 24.5 grains of Varget under a 69 SMK. It is a lighter load but saves your brass and seems to be very accurate in my rifle. Dolomtie

You can choose not to believe it but I have went entire 3 month trips with only two cleanings. Once at the begining and once at the end. Other than that the only tiime the weapon was broken down was if there was a problem which was extremely rare and usually related to ammunition. The biggest problems with reliability I seen over there is when people oiled the crap out of their weapons. This only attracted the moon dust type dirt and did cause cycling problems. I for one had that happen on my first few trips but after I was told to leave the gun dry it ran much better. And as long as it ran without issues I never saw a need to clean it so I didn't. It took me a year or two to get to the point where I would feel comforatble not cleaning it but I would in fact go without cleaning for an entire trip. And as a matter of fact this was on my last trip before a helicopter accident that knocked me out of the game. And yes 3000 may seem a bit much but we would run drills every week and sometimes 2x a week. We would spend probably 4 hours of running drills and going thru at least 10 mags each time we trained. Now should I have cleaned my weapon more often?, probably, but not doing so had no ill effects for me other than being a pain to clean at the end of a trip. The weapon was, without a doubt, filthy dirty but not to the point it became unreliable for me. I would not advocate someone doing what I did but all I was stating that I have experienced this. Dolomite

The piston systems are not unreliable, but I do believe the DI is more reliable than what most people realize. It is like any old wive's tale, there are some who cling to it and spread it every chance they get. It is these people who, in an attempt to save moeny, decide to build a AR out of substandard parts then try to shoot crap ammo out of it. This is when the problems arise. At that point they proclaim that ALL DI AR's are crap when in fact it was the crap gun they built or the crap ammo they bought trying to save money. Now some budget guns run fine but they will not last as long as a quality gun. Quality guns last well into the thousands of rounds without issue yet the cheap guns seem to fail regularly. As long as you have a quality AR and shoot decent ammo you will not have any issues. I have and continue to trust my life to DI AR's and feel more comfortable with them than the piston systems. Now that may change down the road once the longevity of the system on an AR proves itself. Dolomite

When going overseas I would put 300-500 rounds a week for 10+ weeks thru my DI AR without cleaning. Every trip I would put at least 3000 trouble free rounds during training not including actual engagements. The only time I broke the weapon down was when I would get issued it at the beginning of the trip and 10+ weeks later right before I turned it back in. I would run the gun DRY with no oil on it what so ever to prevent collecting the talcum powder dust over there. The reliability issue is just a myth from olden days that people can't seem to let go. Most of the problems people seem to cite are problems from 40+ years ago. My personal AR is a DI and I have shot at least a thousand trouble free rounds over the course of a year without cleaning it. It never offered to cause any problem at all. Now onto another note, pistol driven firearms have their merits as well. I do like the fact the bolt stays cool but in the end I do not believe it warrants the extra cost of retro fitting a already proven design. The AK was designed to be pistol driven and that has helped some with reliability but it is the loose tolerances that do more for reliability than the piston. If you are having reliability issues with your AR it is because something is wrong with your gun or ammo. Dolomite

I do and have always carried my 1911's "cocked and locked". Carrying it any other way will only increase the time it takes to fire it. Carrying it half cocked only damages the sear and this in turn causes problems with the trigger pull. Carrying it hammer down or at half cock is also a bad idea because it is hard to cock the weapon under normal conditions but under stressful conditions it is much harder to cock the hammer without having it slip out from under your finger. I have seen numerous people try to cock the hammer on a 1911 only to have it slip, sometimes the hammer stops at half cock. But even more dangerous is that they sometimes they miss the half cock and strike the firing pin. When that happens it is a bad day for the person shooting because it generally grabs bits and pieces of their thumb as the slide cycles. If I had to carry it in any condition other than "cocked and locked" it would be hammer down on an empty chamber. It is far easier and safer to rack the slide than try to cock the hammer, especially under stress because you should be practicing to clean malfunctions by racking the slide anyways. It is also better for the gun itself than carrying it in a half cocked state. Do not carry it "half cocked" and I would seriously consider having the gun looked at if you have done it for any amount of time because you have probably damaged the sear. Dolomite

Dolomite

Brownells just started selling dedicated 9mm lowers by CMMG. You do not need to buy the $180+ conversion mag block that is required when using a 223 lower. The dedicated lowers are less than $200 without the discount and a lot less with the discount. If you have no intention of ever using the lower for anything other than 9mm that would be the way to go. They use standard Colt style 9mm mags or modified UZI mags. The best mags to run in a 9mm AR are CProducts mags and can be had in 5, 10, 20 and 32 rounders. CMMG : AR-15/M16 DEDICATED 9mm LOWER RECEIVER - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools As I said the blocks to convert a standard AR lower for 9mm use are $180+ depending on maker. BROWNELLS : CAR-15/M4 9MM LOWER RECEIVER CONVERSION KIT - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools YOU DO NOT NEED THESE WITH THE UPPER ABOVE!!! My wife has a 9mm AR and it is the funnest gun to shoot. Because it is blowback the recoil impulse is about the same as a 223 making training cheaper. Her gun has at least 5,000 rounds thru it and other than a few HP's it doesn't like it has ran 100%. Dolomite

I just shot the same ammo, at the same distance, out of the same gun, during the similar conditions. It was a 5 shot average like before fire from the Taurus 24/7 with a 5.25" barrel. The ammunition that was fired was the same as before and out of the same box. This time the rounds averaged 1106 FPS, not much of a gain but a 25 FPS is still a gain none the less. It equates to a little over a 2% increase. Kinetic energy difference is 298ft.lbs vs 312 ft.lbs. I tried to get similar pictures of the bore for the before and after pictures. The light thru both barrels is roughly the same. I pointed the barrel in both pictures at my monitor with a white screen. Before: After: Before polishing the bore was dark and rough compared to the new bore which is light and shiny. It also cleans a lot easier. Before I would scrub for what seemed like an eternity and still not be clean. I just ran a mop down it a few times then patched it and it was clean within an easy 3 minutes. I might try this on a few other barrels to see if see similar results. Dolomite