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Dolomite_supafly

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Dolomite_supafly last won the day on March 6

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About Dolomite_supafly

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  1. Smokey Mountain Knife Works sells guns and if you are there might as well hit Buds Gun Shop as well since they share the same parking lot. The largest used gun collection I have ever seen has been at Shylock's Pawn in Tazewell (Only TAZEWELL). They almost always have some older revolvers. I have seen Dan Wessons revolvers there for $350 and they always have a few Smiths. They had a new in the box Remington XP100 in 223 Remington for $800, if I could have afforded it I would have snatched it up. They had a Remington model 41 in like new condition for $850. Useable single shot shotguns in any caliber for $60, not remotely pretty but useable. Bought an all stainless 10/22 there for $175 several years ago. Might give Mike's Gun Shop in Tazewell a call. He has a huge selection of guns, mostly new, but he also has a decent selection of used guns as well. I would get a list of pawn shops in the area and call each one a few days before to see if any of them have what you are looking for.
  2. After first taking it from those who are already there. If a person doesn't own the property they better have their supplies loaded and on their way to the bug out location BEFORE anything happens if you plan on being there first. You MUST have your supplies already loaded, tank full of gas and able to take off within minutes if you have ANY hope of beating the mobs. And if you think you have found the perfect spot a bunch of other people are planning to go to the same spot. There are plenty of people who plan on bugging out and I wonder where. Most of them say they plan to head to the hills which is a huge problem because there are already people in those hills living there right now. And those people are going to defend their location or at least I know I will. And don't expect others to openly welcome a large group of people. I know I won't welcome anyone unless they bring a significant skill to the group and honestly I can't imagine what that skill might be that isn't already covered. Anyone who is not a member of my group will be turned away with overwhelming amount of force. I will say this to all of those planning on bugging out to the hills. I will defend what is mine, including land, from any squatters or looters. After all if you show up and try to take what isn't yours you are a thief. That includes wild game, plants or anything on my property even if I do not need it or not using it that stuff is still mine. I may have more than I need to survive but I will not share any of it with complete strangers. I have made preparations to ensure my survivability and I would be a fool to give any of it away to complete strangers. It takes a lot of land to support a person year around. An acre or two isn't going to cut it. It will likely take 10's of acres per person if they plan on foraging or hunting. And what makes the average person think they are going to make it out of a population center before the other 50% of the other people leaving the cities clog the roadways? What is going to happen is the highways are going to clog like Rita/ Katrina leaving them stranded and with the option of walking to the "hills" or walking back to the cities. And when you start walking you are going to be able to carry far less than what you left with or even left behind in your vehicle. Bugging in has some real advantages and if I lived in a city I would, without a doubt, stay put. First is you already have everything you are going to have without the need to transport it to a new location. You can call for help from those around you while in a remote location you cannot call for help. Another big advantage is you know the area. You also know who is friend and who is foe or at least have a good idea. Travelling exposes you to more dangers. It is also easier to defend a building or high rise than a tent in the woods. Those buildings are going to protect you from the elements and be easier to keep warm in and survive in for the average person especially those used to living in the city. Food, at least initially, will be easier to come by in the cities as well as potable water. There are literally a few weeks worth of potable water in your water heater and toilet bowls and that is if you don't ration. With rain gutters, collecting water is much easier too. And as disgusting as it might sound cities have tons of rodents that can be harvested for food. If any type of relief or supplies are handed out it is going to be in the population centers first. The average person is going to have a far easier time surviving in the city than in the "hills". But if you must bug out and have any hope of bugging out you must be packed and ready to go in a moments notice. Vehicles have to ALWAYS have the gas needed to make it to that location. When the SHTF gas will be gone within minutes so unless you are at the pumps pumping your gas as it takes place you will not get gas from a pump. You need to also realize that there are going to be a lot more people than just you heading to a bug out location. This is going to clog the roadways like we saw during Rita/Katrina. The only way you might get a head start is if you are in a position to get some notice, like LE, emergency services or the government. Otherwise it is going to be a race to get out and if you are not in the lead you will find yourself stuck in the rear with the pack. And once you are stuck you and your stuff become vulnerable to roaming bands of thugs set on taking your stuff for themselves. And honestly it would be easy pickings. As far as your bug out location you need to own the property you plan to go to. This can give you a little bit of a delay in the squatters that will show up. And once there the squatters are not going to readily leave even if you tell them you own the property. If your bug out location is "public lands" you are not going to be the first there, it will be like winning the lottery if you are. You are going to find yourself surrounded by thousands of others who have the same plan. So, if it is a good spot, you will probably have to fight your way in and once in you will have to constantly defend that location. Most people don't realize that best case scenario crops will be edible in 4 months. If it happened during the summer it would be close to a year before crops can begin to be harvested. So that means you are going to have to transport that much food because you are not going to be able to kill a years worth of food with everyone else trying to do the same thing. And as much as I hate to say it in order to survive people must loose their conscience. They must be willing to turn those less fortunate away unless they bring a substantial advantage to the group. People have this grand illusion that they are going to be able to find virgin land to live off of. Look around, how much public land do you see? And of that how much is going to be free for the taking, not much if any, by the time they make it?
  3. I'm still waiting on a April 1, 2016 submission.
  4. wanted

    Sit on or sit in? Two totally different animals. For rough water I would never consider a sit on kayak but for smooth water a sit on is a great option.
  5. The best way to preserve your brass and get accurate loads is to separate the steps. Use a Redding body die to size the body then use a Lee collet die to size the neck. Take the sizing pin out of the Lee collet die, chuck it into a drill then use sandpaper to polish and remove a few thousandths to increase neck tension. That way you do not HAVE to crimp. And if you decide you want to load for a bolt gun then all you have to do is size the neck. The rest of the case will be fire formed to your chamber so it will help your brass last a lot longer. Unfortunately you MUST size the body with semi autos. Normal dies squeeze the neck down below the minimum and then pull a mandrel through the neck to get it to proper size. This work hardens your brass and without annealing they will only last 4-5 loadings before the case is unusable. By sizing the body and neck in separate operations your brass will last a lot longer. I would normally get 10+ loadings.
  6. Central Vetrinary Hospital in Knoxville. Doctor Wesley Keele is a great doctor. Knowledgeable as well as caring. He calls to see how your pet is doing a day or two after the visit. He makes sensible recommendations with your pets welfare being his top priority. Best vetrinarian I have dealt with so far. I cannot say enough great things about the Doctor Keele and the staff at Central Vetrinary Hospital.
  7. Who here has a Sheridan gauge from Tromix? I bought one to measure the throat and I am needing a few more people to measure to get a decent average.
  8. ATF has raided and taken down another "solvent trap" online dealer recently. They are starting to see what a "solvent trap" really is and what they are REALLY used for. And yes, you CAN order a 50 BMG upper for your AR15. Doesn't need to go through a FFl and can be mailed directly to you. Mine should be here any day.
  9. wanted

    I second a sit on kayak. They are generally smaller, more stable and are able to get in to shallower water than a canoe. I bought my latest one from Walmart. It was under $300 for it and a paddle. I thought it was a great price for a fishing kayak. Plenty of storage as well as plenty of rod holders. I like kayaks better because they support my back.
  10. Heck, I'll take it. PM me your address so I can drop a $10 bill in the mail.
  11. Here is one that does NOT require any NFA paperwork. Can be bought and taken home immediately. https://www.gunsamerica.com/blog/short-barrel-no-hassle-black-aces/ Just throwing it out there for those who do not do the NFA thing.
  12. I wonder if you could screw some extra sections onto a different one and make a super silencer if you have more than one of those Dead Air Ghosts? Legalities?
  13. You want the shorter barrel with a threaded muzzle. You will be able to shoot cheap bulk pack 22 and it will remain subsonic. With a 4.5" barrel certain brands will be supersonic and they will be about as loud as without a silencer.
  14. Get a Redding body die to bump the entire case back into shape when it needs it. Get the Lee collet die and use it to squeeze the neck back into shape. I normally take a few thousandths off the diameter of the pin to get it a bit more neck tension so I do not have to crimp. I have used a factory Savage barrel to shoot .2's at 100 yards. It was a 26" 7 twist barrel with fluting. If you are wanting the most accuracy you MUST do a lot of work to your brass, even new or quality brass, and bullets. One of the things I do is uniform and deburr the flash hole. Lyman makes the perfect tool for this. It made such a big improvement that I do that to every single rifle case now. Size, trim and weigh the cases into lots. This will ensure the cases are as identical as possible. Use quality brass. Winchester is about the best "budget" brass. For the bullets I would get two Hornady comparators for a 223 and attach each to a caliper. That way you can measure the bearing surface of the bullets. Sierra tends to be pretty uniform in weight but their bearing surface can vary. Sort them by bearing surface length. The longer the bearing surface the higher the pressure and the higher the pressure the higher the velocity. So if you have an identical case with an identical charge of powder and you have two bullets that weigh the same but have different bearing surface lengths the gun will string vertically. I never got into turning necks because consistent .3's was good enough for me. I would start out with 24.5-24.7 grains of Varget under a 69 SMK loaded to 2.24". That seems to be a very, very accurate load in a lot of guns (not just mine). Velocity will be down some with shorter barrels but boy was this accurate in a lot of my guns. In a 16" barrel it ran ~2,350 fps and in a 26" barrel it ran ~2,950 fps. My barrel did not mind the jump and actually shot better loaded to magazine length rather than to the lands. The key to accuracy is consistency. There are also things that you must do to a Savage to squeak every last bit of accuracy. Make sure the cocking pin is not bottoming out on the bolt body. Make sure firing pin protrusion is as close to .042" as possible. Savage's are the easiest guns to make adjustments to and anything you might need to do to a Savage doesn't require a gunsmith. The best trigger YOU can install in a Savage is the Sharp Shooter Supply competition trigger. But DO NOT order directly from them, it will take them a lot longer to deliver and they are temperamental if you complain. So buy it from anywhere else that sells them. Matter of fact do not buy anything from SSS directly, just not worth the risk. If you want I can PM you my number and we can discuss Savages and how to make them shoot.
  15. If you call around to some smaller police departments they sometimes have blank cards you can write the ORI information into. I wonder if they will kick it back for not having the ORI on the cards? I suspect they will. BTW, I assume you did it as an individual.

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