Dolomite_supafly
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About Dolomite_supafly
- Currently Viewing Topic: Saiga .223**Reduced**
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.45 ACP Mosin Nagant conversion
Dolomite_supafly replied to Quavodus's topic in Curio, Relics and Black Powder
Rhineland arms used to make a 45 ACP conversion for Mausers. It was cheap too, something like $200 for everything including the barrel. Here you go, $160 and that includes the magazine well to accept 1911 magazines. http://www.troupsystems.com/mauser45kits.htm -
free FREE walnut and elm logs
Dolomite_supafly replied to Dolomite_supafly's topic in Non Firearm Classifieds
Ok, now I am willing to pay someone to come get a few thousand dollars worth of logs. So who can come get them and how much. -
sale-or-trade Welding repair and fabrication
Dolomite_supafly replied to Dolomite_supafly's topic in Non Firearm Classifieds
Bumping this up. -
sale-or-trade FS: High quality fiberglass ARE camper top
Dolomite_supafly replied to Dolomite_supafly's topic in Non Firearm Classifieds
Bump with a price drop. Will also entertain trades. Especially AK stuff. -
When transporting a gas grill in your SUV, make sure the gas is off.
Dolomite_supafly replied to bubbiesdad's topic in General Chat
Yes but every vehicle is designed to stop it from being crushed from the outside, not expanded from the inside. I bet they are going to be saying "what" to everything said to them for a while. I cannot imagine the amount of ringing their ears are doing right now. -
You can always turn it down, you cannot always turn it up. $100 to double your capabilities is a deal. It also depends on what you will be welding. If all you do is thinner material a 230 is not NEEDED. But if you are going to do any heavier gauge stuff a 110V may not work well. Also look at the duty cycle. You want a welder that can handle what you are doing without taking cooling breaks. If you are going to be using it to fix things, versus building things, you could get away with a lower duty cycle. If you get a high voltage welder you shouldn't have a duty cycle problem at the lower settings. The first welder I used was a cheap 230V model. If I turned it up past anything beyond 100 amps it would shut off after 5 minutes and take at least 15 minutes to cool before you could turn it back on. I used box fans to extend the welding time some but it still turned itself off before I was done welding. I am far from an expert, plenty of people here with WAY more knowledge than I have about welding. I am still trying to figure things out myself. Personally I would buy a good AC/DC TIG/ARC machine in 230V. It isn't as simple as a MIG but you can weld EVERYTHING with a AC/DC TIG/ARC welder. You can weld aluminum and steel. Now if all you are going to weld is steel and ease of use is important it is hard to beat a 230V MIG on gas. With it you can pretty much weld anything you would need to as a home user.
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You ain't kidding. I had gloves and a t-shirt on the first day I spent TIG welding. My skin was peeling a few days later from the burn. Now I make sure I have a long sleeve on when running AC.
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I just bought a Vepr 12. Factory built with the folder that actually folds instead of one that is welded open. Get them while you can because they are going fast.
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Flux core MIG will get you more penetration than shielding gas but it needs to be cleaned up because of the flux core. You are more than welcome to call me anytime. Or if you prefer you can come by and try anything I have before you buy. If you are used to brazing or using a torch to "weld" I would look at a TIG machine. They are like an acetylene torch except they use electricity instead of gas to heat the metal. You can also use a TIG to cut metal like an acetylene torch. I have a plasma cutter as well but I have used the TIG to make cuts from time to time because it is easier if you are already using the TIG. What are the specs on the welders and what are you trying to weld?
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Get a wire feed MIG, they are so simple to use. You set a couple of dials and squeeze a trigger. I have a Hobart 140 and it works great. I can do really thin stuff as well as stuff that is well over 1/4" on a single pass. You can use MIG welders with gas or with a core if you don't want to fool with gas. With gas the welds need nothing, no clean up at all. I use the Hobart several times a week and have yet to have a problem. I also have a TIG machine and use it some as well but for 90% of the stuff I am welding I use a MIG because it is so simple. TIG give you a lot more control and is almost like a acetylene torch. I have used stick welders and they leave a lot to be desired compared to MIG.
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sale-or-trade P320 (now with photos!!)
Dolomite_supafly replied to IRO-bot's topic in Firearms Classifieds
What is the price? In the original post you list $500 as the price then a few posts down you list it as $550. I am not interested, just trying to clarify for the members here. -
I would send back the G2 frame and find an older, used frame. The older frames will work with 99% of the barrels out there while the newer G2 frames may have problems with certain barrels. And it seems pretty random which makes the process of finding a barrel that will fit much harder. If you decide to keep the G2 frame you will always be frustrated with your barrel selection. Another reason is the fact you can find older barrels in pretty much any caliber while the newer ones are pretty limited unless you order custom barrels and even then you might not be able to use the barrel with the G2 receiver.
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Is it a new G2 frame or an older frame?
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Hey man, give me a call. We might be able to work something out if you are interested in a trade on something that might be an easier sell. 789 5796 (Knoxville area code)
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http://www.stevespages.com/ It would take a lifetime, which it did, to accumulate the amount of information there.
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