S&W 642-2 advise please

[Billco]

I was at the range firing a few handload recipes; all went well - about 40 rounds went fine.

I loaded a cylinder of 125 gr fmj with unique powder(I believe) first round was click and nothing else, I waited with gun pointed down range and nothing. When I tried to open the cylinder, the release wouldn't budge, the trigger is frozen as is the cylinder. I tried the 'key' for the internal lock, and that is not the problem. Right now I have a fully loaded weapon with no way to open it. It is stored in a safe place at present. Does anyone have any ideas as to what caused the malfunction, or more importantly how to fix it? Any help is appreciated.

[56FordGuy]

Did the cylinder rotate fully before the revolver attempted to fire? Is the cylinder properly lined up with the barrel now, or is it between cylinders? Had you been shooting the 125 gr FMJs? My first thought is that the OAL on one cartridge was too long, and is wedged in there.

[Billco]

56 FordGuy, everything lines up; but you instilled an idea to calibrate the depth of the rounds in the cylinder. The unfired rounds are about .234" from the end of the cylinder.

Based on that measurement, and the depth down the barrel where my caliper stops, it looks like I have an uncharged round in the barrel. Primer was enough to get it out of the case, and I think that it is lodged between the end of the cylinder and the barrel opening. Does that make sense to you? And if that be the case, any ideas on how to remedy the situation? Maybe slowly tapping it back in?

[gregintenn]

SOunds like you had a squib load. The primer pushed the bullet partially into the barrel, and the powder, if it exists in that round, didn't ignite. Try driving the bullet back into the case with a hammer and piece of a wood dowel.

[56FordGuy]

I'd tend to agree with you and Greg, squib load stuck partially in the barrel. As for fixing it, I think Greg is on the right track. I'd use the largest diameter wooden dowel that will fit down the barrel, and as short as possible, probably no more than an inch longer than the barrel. My theory is the bullet shouldn't have to move too far to clear and let things open up, and a longer dowel rod will flex more and deliver less energy to the bullet, or break. A soft brass punch the right diameter would probably work best, but I'm not sure where you would find one.

Edited to add, the difficult part may well be holding the frame of the revolver solidly enough. A vise with a good set of rubber soft jaws would be ideal. Steel jaws will undoubtedly scratch/ gouge the barrel, and a towel or cardboard wrapped around it may not provide enough grip against the metal to hold tightly enough. If you had a short piece of automotive heater hose you could cut and wrap around the barrel before clamping it in the vise, that might work. My fear is that the bullet is going to be very, very solidly wedged in there. Hopefully I'm wrong and it will move without too much trouble.

Edited November 26, 2010 by 56FordGuy

[Billco]

Cudos to 56 FordGuy!!!!! You did indeed inspire me. I tapped very slowly, back into the case. Cylinder open, pulled the round and sure enough no powder charge, or at least not enough to leave the end of the barrel. Problem solved, barrel looks good and all is well. Many thanks for giving me reason to think to even consider it.

[gregintenn]

They'll usually drive out fairly easily. :blush:Don't ask me how I know. The brass rod would be better if you can get your hands on one.

[gregintenn]

Didn't type fast enough. Glad to hear you got it fixed. This happened once to my wife, except her bullet lodged about halfway down the barrel. She stacked three more behind it before the final round locked everything up tight. I now swear by the strength of Smith and Wesson revolvers. It, of course, needed a new barrel, but everything else was good to go.

[56FordGuy]

Glad to hear you were able to get it out!