GlockSpock

  Well, give me the list of reasons here and now! I've read up on some of it, it just seems to violate on of the rules of gun safety, that's all. I will probably give the VG2 a try. Thanks!

Reports saying two suspects "down". Eyewitness reports suggest 3 gunman, one wearing "military fatigues".

  My understanding of the VanGuard system is that (for Glocks) you can use it with most any model Glock? Get one for the G26 and use it with my G19 if I want? For concealing a small firearm such as a G26, I don't mind or care about the "extra" step of holstering. Besides that, would you consider it adequate for safety concerns? The trigger guard if completely covered, how's retention? Once it is in place on your belt, does it sit pretty stable?   I have no desire to AIWB. I understand that functionally speaking, it is just as safe as OWB or IWB on one of your sides. However, I am a firm believer of never pointing a firearm at something you don't want to destroy. It looks like to me that AIWB has the firearm pointing directly at your thigh area. Just the though of that makes me cringe. If I am wrong about AIWB please let me know.   Wish someone in Cleveland had a VG2 for a Glock, I'd love to take a look at one!

I have been and typically carry a Gen 3 Glock 19 in a Raven Concealment Holster: http://www.ravenconcealment.com/holsters/phantom-modular-holsters/phantom-light-compatible-holster   I carry attached a Surefire X300 Ultra. It's a great combination. However, as you can imagine, it is quite bulky IWB (I use the tuckable soft loops): http://www.ravenconcealment.com/accessories/iwb-modular-accessories/iwb-eclipse-modular-accessories-iwb-tuckable-soft-loops   Most of the time this is fine. If I am going into public for shopping or a friendly gathering, I typically will be wearing a button up or polo even in warmer weather.    However, I also try and go  on several 4-8 mile walks a week. Recently I have been compromising and placing my Gen 3 Glock 26 in my pocket. Since I don't (and have no reason to) feel comfortable in placing a Glock in my pocket with one in the chamber, I leave it chambered when I place it in my pocket. On a long walk, it is generally more comfortable with the G26 in my pocket than the larger G19 rig IWB.   However, I am now wishing to pickup either an IWB holster or some sort of pocket carry setup for the G26. For one thing, this really caught my eye: http://www.ravenconcealment.com/holsters/vanguard-holster-systems/vanguard-2-holster-full-kit   However, I've also seen the little "trigger blocks" for Glocks that go in your pocket and all sorts of other things. I'd like to know what all of you think about the most minimal ways to (safely) carry a Glock 26.

      New email? Why? Send something to that ad about how already purchased one but haven't received it yet. Ask if they will take care of you better!

Was looking at the local listings, and came across this:   http://www.gunlistings.org/tennessee-gun-classifieds/chattanooga/all/175717/gwinn_very_rare   Perhaps you have already seen one or perhaps already seen this one for sale, but I just found it as a very intriguing rifle and thought I would pass it along.

Went in there for the first time today. It is in the old Sears section of the Bradley Square Mall. Not a bad place. It reminds me of Dicks or Academy. Had probably 25+ black rifles and quite a bit of ammo at moderate pricing. Didn't find .22lr, but didn't look too hard either. I will probably still shop at a locally owned gun store, but in terms of chain sporting goods stores this is by far the best we have had in Cleveland. http://www.dunhamssports.com/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

Well, there are unintended consequences and unintended benefits when someone purchases something like this for resale. First we must face a fact. If someone is paying $50 for a brick of ammo and Walmart places some of the shelf for $20, what is the fair market price? You have the ability to purchase it in a limited quantity at $20, but if people are actively paying $50 a brick, I argue that the true fair market value is $50. For this example, we will assume it is a "fair market" and disregard any potential "insider trading" or the like. Lots of people pay $50 for a brick, so the fair market value is $50.   That means that the $20 brick that Walmart is selling is undervalued. Econ. 101 will tell you when the selling price is below the equilibrium price, you will have a shortage. We see this when we go to Walmart and they have no bricks. Generally speaking though, I can find $50 bricks all day long if I am willing to pay that price for them. This, arguably, is the equilibrium point. Purchasers can find what they are looking for, and sellers are happy to sell it to them at that price.   Now, lets pretend that there wasn't a single person in the whole state of Tennessee that was buying ammo and reselling it. Lets pretend that Walmart keeps their prices at $20 a brick. However, the demand that we are seeing right now is still the same. Thus, it is very likely that anyone that would have paid $50 for a brick are now able to purchase 2.5 bricks for $50. Once again, since Walmart is selling their bricks at a price-point lower than market equilibrium, we have a shortage. However, in this scenario, since the ammo is going straight to the consumers, it is likely that all of this ammo would be shot or stored for usage later by the consumers. Thus, it would arguably be more difficult for you or I to find ammo because those purchasing it from Walmart would be using it.   I can find ammo today simply by going to Gunlistings.org, GunOwnersClub, Armslist, etc. It would be an inflated price from the Walmart price, but truthfully probbaly represents fair market value moreso than the Walmart price.   I don't speak up against re-sellers. I don't do it because I find myself having that "American Picker" mindset sometimes myself. Who hasn't purchased a used item at a great deal a time or two and "flipped it" to make a few bucks? Sure, if someone is going to do it time after time again and supplement their income by doing so, the right (and legal) way to do so would be opening a business, paying income taxes, etc. However, that issue should just as much be solved on the government level as it should be on the re-seller level. Some of you may agree with me and some of you will probably disagree with me, but eliminating the income tax and replacing it with a fair-tax type tax, and then you no longer have to worry about a lot of the "legal restrictions" so to say. However, I don't want to talk much about that in this thread, but perhaps we can talk about potential tax scenarios in another thread.   The bottom line is that, in my opinion, the problem lies not with the re-sellers but with the sellers. If Walmart is going to sell their ammo at below market price, we will see a shortage. All the re-sellers are doing is taking advantage of this gap between the Walmart price and the fair market value price, and while they should be paying income tax on doing so, we know many of them don't. Look in your local classifieds section and see how many of the "skilled labor" workers are paying income taxes on the side work they do.   There certainly is a line somewhere between what is an "honest" way of making a living and an "unethical sleazebag" way of making a living. I am not here to tell anyone where that line is. Lets take the richest person in the world. That person could afford to buy every gallon of gas in an are 500 square miles. Then they could attempt to resale it at a 10% markup. Or they could try for a 100% markup. Sleazy? Yes. Illegal? In some/most cases, probably. However, would the same implications be there if instead of much needed gasoline he were purchasing every single Hot Wheels Car he ever laid eyes on, effectively reducing the supply and then charging 200% for them?   They way I see it, re-sellers are providing a service of some sort. There are many people who either don't want to, don't know how to, or don't even know that you can order ammo from the internet.  Some of these people are the paranoid type who are afraid that purchasing 100 rounds of ammo will put them on a watchlist. You know these people. Some of them are members here. Some of them are reading this post. If you have ever considered "losing" your guns in a boating accident, you are one of these people. Some of them are just the older generation that doesn't order things on the internet. If someone is purchasing ammo on the internet and offering it to these people at a price they are willing to pay, you have equilibrium. Sure, many of these people have a competitive advantage in the fact that they are skipping on their taxes, but it is still equilibrium. You have a guy who made a few bucks, and you have a guy who purchased ammo at a price they were willing to pay. Many of you are wanting to place ammo in a "necessity class" and protect it from being marked up, but ultimately, just like any other good or service, it should go for market value.   The best, and likely only, thing that you can do to lower the price of ammo and eliminate re-sellers is to not support them. I for one do not purchase ammo from them, but I also do not speak out against them.   Also, I find it very ironic that the original purpose of this thread was to notify you of a place you could purchase in online at a reasonable price. If Benton wanted to purchase a bit extra when he could find it at a reasonable price and then help offset the cost of his original purpose, it doesn't bother me. Personally I have met him a few times, I thought he was a standup guy. He's done a few favors for me even though he doesn't know me that well. Last I checked, he has a job. He also has, just like everyone else, bills and a family to feed. I am not one to judge him for supplementing his income by making a few bucks extra a month if he can by buying and reselling ammo. Perhaps that is all that is allowing him to stay afloat? I don't know. Whether he pays appropriate taxes is between him and the IRS/Tennessee. It's just very ironic to me that he was attempting to help TGO'ers out by letting them know about a deal. Should he have removed his posts? Probably not, but who cares? It sounds like he is "out". If he wants to take "his" posts with him, it is an argument that could go either way on.    Just my two cents.

Throw something in there about this being a once in a lifetime opportunity for a really great gun deal, that you would not pass up or even consider passing up the deal, and in no way would you even have considered not fulfilling all requested obligations.   Tell him you are starting to wonder if he is a scammer. Tell him you don't mean to insult him, but it is starting to feel that you have been scammed, as you clearly sent to MO and it has been cashed, yet he is claiming that he never received it.   WooHoo!

Looks like they've added an optional "grill" attachment.   http://www.biolitestove.com/campstove/new-portable-grill/grill-features/

Oops. Pasted wrong link earlier. Will edit the original when I can. Use this for now. http://www.washingtontimes.com/news/2013/sep/11/missouri-moves-legalize-machine-guns-and-outlaw-fe/?utm_source=RSS_Feed&utm_medium=RSS Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Available+Jobs+in+Tennessee   Saw this earlier today in the breakroom on CNN. Doubt it'd ever happen, but with the recent happenings on marijuana, perhaps a state will give NFA laws a try and see what happens?

As many of you have probably realized, I take great care to make sure I am getting my money's worth on any service I pay for, and try to be as financially responsible as a gun lover can be. So I figured that I'd pass along a tip that I use to maximize cash-back bonuses on money I do spend. I average $25-$50 cash-back bonus per month, depending on the month.   Interest rates on saving accounts are low. However, that does not mean you cannot make your money work for you! Most people tend to look at how to increase their rewards for saving money. That is important, but a point that is often overlooked is how to increase your rewards for spending money. Hi! I'm Matt, and this is how I spend!   First, let me breakdown the steps that I use:   Earn Money Budget Money Spend Money (on credit) Pay Credit in Full It is that easy!   Step 1: Earn Money   In order to have money to spend, you must first earn money. I work an 8-5 job five days a week, but your results may vary. Chances are that you are already doing this!   If you are not already doing this, might I suggest this link?   Step 2: Budget Money   I use YNAB. That stands for "You Need a Budget". That part is true. It is also true that YNAB is likely the most intuitive budgeting software that exists.I have tried many finance/budgeting programs, but I always ended up dropping them due to the fact that they never really changed anything. I like to think of it in the following way: Most budgeting programs are like a giant magnifying glass inspecting what you have already spent, and YNAB is like a giant telescope telling you what you are going to spend in the future.   I wont' get into too many details here regarding YNAB's "Four Rules", but essentially, it is important for you to budget your money so that you do not spend more than you make. It's that easy. In this particular write-up, we are attempting to maximize cashback bonus. In order to do that, we cannot afford to be charged any interest on our credit card. That would very quickly offset any cashback bonus we may earn during the month.   If you want to save even more money when purchasing YNAB, use a coupon!   $6 Off Coupon for YNAB   Step 3: Spend Money (on credit)   Placing all my purchases on a credit card to maximize cash-back was something I attempted several years ago. It ultimately ended with me spending more than I made each month, and then of course accruing interest charges on the card.  So I stopped this practice and started using my debit card for everything instead. However, once I started using YNAB, I then could safely put all my spending on a credit card and now is exactly what I do once again.   I have my internet setup on Discover. Anything shipped via USPS is paid via Discover. Anything I eat I place on Discover. In a few shorts words, if I can place it on Discover, I do. But since I have budgeted every dollar that I spend and stick to that budget very closely, I have never been charged interest on any of these purchases.   However, here is my method. Take advantage of any bonus programs that you might have. I get 1% cash-back on every purchase through Discover. However, I also get 5% through iTunes, 10% through Sears, 5% on fuel and so on and so forth. There is a huge trick here though. I am offered 15% cash-back through Groupon. Assuming that you are placing restaurants and other social things to do, focus on this. If you budget $300 for a month's worth of restaurants and then are able to spend most of that on Groupon for food deals, not only are you likely getting close to $600 worth of food, but you would also be getting close to $45 cash-back. That adds up pretty quickly once you figure in other possible cash-back rewards.   Your results will vary based upon your credit card, but I would highly recommend Discover. They generally have the highest cash-back rate, and have a special category for each quarter of the year (this quarter is 5% on fuel, next quarter is 5% on online shopping).   Become a Discover cardmember and you’ll get $50 Cashback Bonus with your 1st purchase within 3 mos.   Step 4: Pay Credit in Full   This part is easy. As long as you have stuck to your budget, you already have enough money sitting in your checking (or better yet savings) account. Pay your credit card off in full each month so you will not accrue any interest on your purchases.   Summary   Budget money before you spend it, place all possible purchases on credit cards that offer cash-back, pay your credit cards in full each month and then enjoy your cash-back rewards!   So, what about you? Do you have any tricks or tips for maximizing how well spent money works for you?

And that...would probably be the best thing he could possibly do. Not to mention the iPod is made in China!

http://www.foxnews.com/politics/2013/09/07/wh-goes-all-out-to-win-syria-strike-support-ahead-obama-tuesday-speech/ Looks like he is at minimum still standing behind his bluff. At most, he doesn't care and really, really wants some action.

You forgot the part where it dies every other chew and you have to start it again.

That's the settings on the Web GUI, it's pretty much all that there is on the unit as well. I think it is good to go. Thoughts?

  Ok, I changed the aux. heat from gas to electric in the settings. I now have two additional settings available. The first one asks when to use the heat pump compressor when the temperature outside is above: (default is always). The 2nd additional setting asks when to use the aux. heat (default is 50f or below). Sound good? It is typical for the aux. and heat pump to work when it is super cold, right?

That is great information! I have been running the AC around 78 this previous week. So is it even worth letting it go up to 80 or so when I am not here? I have always wondered about efficiencies and what not, I just wish that the climate was steady enough to test everything in various ways.

A bit more "statistics" that I'm using to hype myself up over this:   What I've done is exported all available data from my electric usage, sorted it all by average temperature and then sub-sorted it by usage. I have this to show:   The following is for all days with an average external temperature of "77", with the high and low following the average temperature. I've sorted these records by usage, and as you can see the "Nest" day falls into 7 of 16th place in lesser usage.     6/21/2013 32 Kwh $2.87 77 87 69 7/25/2013 32 Kwh $2.83 77 87 66 6/20/2013 35 Kwh $3.14 77 87 69 8/12/2013 38 Kwh $3.35 77 87 72 7/26/2013 39 Kwh $3.45 77 88 66 8/13/2013 39 Kwh $3.44 77 87 73 Nest 39 Kwh $3.44 77 86 73 8/20/2013 41 Kwh $3.62 77 85 71 7/28/2013 44 Kwh $3.89 77 85 70 8/5/2013 45 Kwh $3.97 77 87 68 5/31/2013 46 Kwh $3.98 77 85 70 7/27/2013 49 Kwh $4.33 77 86 72 9/1/2013 49 Kwh $4.32 77 84 73 7/8/2013 50 Kwh $4.42 77 87 72 8/3/2013 52 Kwh $4.59 77 84 69 8/27/2013 62 Kwh $5.47 77 89 66   The following is for all days with an average external temperature of "80", with the high and low following the average temperature. I've sorted these records by usage, and as you can see the "Nest" day falls into 1 of 9th place in lesser usage.     Nest 29 Kwh $2.56 80 90 73 7/16/2013 35 Kwh $3.09 80 90 72 8/4/2013 36 Kwh $3.18 80 89 73 8/30/2013 48 Kwh $4.24 80 90 75 8/9/2013 50 Kwh $4.41 80 90 72 8/10/2013 50 Kwh $4.41 80 88 73 7/15/2013 53 Kwh $4.69 80 88 71 6/11/2013 54 Kwh $4.84 80 91 71 8/28/2013 64 Kwh $5.65 80 90 70   The "77" doesn't impress me as much, however, the "80" excites me quite a bit!

Well, first status report in! My utility allows us to view near real time usage via a web interface. I know it is far from scientific (give me a few more months and I'll have cold, hard statistics). However, I think so far this is a good sign. Nest was initially installed on September the 2nd. You can of course see the avg, max, and min degrees F of the outside temperature. Monday was when I first installed it (in the evening), and it saw the lowest usage amount for the shown period as of that date. Then, Tuesday, it showed a lower usage amount for the shown period. It is possible that Wednesday is not a complete usage yet (as in, the next time the usage is "pushed" to the server it could update). However, comparing Tuesday, September the 3rd to Wednesday, August the 28th is a very good sign. Both of them had the same average outdoor temperature, but usage was 64 vs 29. That's of course also dependent on other things, such as washer and drier usage, etc etc, but I think it is a very good sign starting off! I have data for the previous year that I can compile into statistics based on average temperature. I can then compile statistics based on average temperature after I've installed the Nest. That should provide me with quite accurate savings estimates.

  Well then I really hope to see my bill drop 30%! I just purchased the Nest thermostat. It costed a bit more than your $50, but it has a pretty screen and iOS comparability (I go for that sort of stuff). Honestly, a more efficient shower head is something I've likely overlooked, as well as stuff for the sink.   This could become quite a hobby/addiction (trying to get your water and electric bills as close to $0 as possible)!

  I was thinking about these, particularly the window tinting and seal/insulation kits for doors and windows. Any information on these?

I have a $100 gift card to Walmart. Instead of blowing it on something I probably don't really need, and I don't want to stand in line for .22lr ammo, I am thinking of purchasing something for energy savings. I just don't know what! I am attempting to cut my electric bill a noticeable amount. I've already setup the Nest thermostat and awaiting my first reports in relation to savings.   Things I am considering.   Fancy light bulbs Timers Dehumidifier (possibly)   I don't really know, but I am sure you do! Do you have a way I might be able to spend my $100 to help curb my electric cost? I'd be nice if it were to pay for itself (the $100) over the next year. Give me some ideas!

Also, lets talk about humidity and HVAC. I've read that having a higher relative humidity makes it more difficult for your HVAC to adjust the temperature inside. My nest tells me my relative humidity level, it's currently at 56%. I've read the 45% is probably the more optimal relative humidity level for comfortable temperatures inside.   Nest as a "Cool-to-Dry" setting, which means it mumps AC into your house to reduce the relative humidity. It also warns this can get quite expensive, although I don't see any statistics or settings regarding what humidity level it attempts to keep it at.